Mayolives

Mixing and matching t/o bearing related parts is a crap shoot. Stick with one set up and the matching part numbers from Nissan for that set up and you can't go wrong. Do it correct the first time and be done with it. This is by far easier than needing to pull the gear box out again to correct a problem.

The oil from the turbo drain line is not moving with high pressure. Any reasonably substantial connection, either threaded and clamped, will suffice. Also, please make an effort to use better punctuation and grammar when posting. Yes, we are just dumb ass gear heads but we deserve better.

Adjuster On Top End Ring Tacked On Bottom End For Better Fitment Length

Alan, Good to hear from you and before I go any farther, the z car crowd misses you and your hot rod at East Coast events. Hopefully you will get it together soon and come out to play with us. I have contacted Koni but they have yet to respond and I suspect they will also tell me these shocks are only externally adjustable for rebound, just like you have stated. However, thats not what I barganed for and what I was told when I purchased them from Ross at Modern Motorsports. Where do you suggest I send them to be checked? You stated that you were at #400 and #450. Are you refering to spring weights? My car is balanced very well having nearly identical corner weights with full load and driver in place. In that condition it weighs 2560 lbs. Are you suggesting that I go up on my spring weights? Thanks again for your help. I know that you have ben there, done that.

Man..........And I thought that I was fast, back in the day. Thanks for the vid. That car really rocks!

I need advice about how to adjust my Koni 8610 red shock absorbers. Each shock has a small wheel on the top end with holes in it. This wheel can be turned with a small straight tool. I use a very small screw driver or one end of a small allen wrench. The adjuster can be turned about 2 1/2 rotations. According to the adjustment procedure from Koni's site as copied below, that single adjustment knob, as they call it, adjusts both rebound and compression. How can this be? When I adjust the knob in a counter clockwise direction, it definitely softens up the suspension and the opposite happens when I adjust clockwise. It would appear that I am only adjusting the rebound and I would like to adjust both the rebound and the compression. The problem I'm trying to cure is a "chattering" or hopping condition of the whole car when exiting a corner at the limit with the hammer down. These shocks are on my road race car and I'm running 350 and 375 lbs coilover springs, MMS rear adjustable arms, AZC front adjustable arms, Quaife differential with the rest of the alignment set at John Coffee's recommendations. I just don't understand how to set both adjustments with only one adjustment knob. I know that I can read but the instructions are as clear as mud. Any advice from someone with an understanding of how they are to be adjusted or what I can try in order to cure the chattering condition would be greatly appreciated. FROM KONI WEB SITE: Adjustment Procedure 8041, 8042, 8241, 8610, 8641, 8742 Series Rebound Adjustment Procedures Externally Adjustable. These dampers can be adjusted, literally at the turn of a knob, a technique borrowed from Formula-1 racing where KONI dampers have dominated the field for years. One can switch back and forth, in most cases in a matter of seconds, from a comfortable "touring" setting to a more firmer setting for a sporty drive. By means of a knob damping forces can be altered to driving conditions or personal preferences. REBOUND ADJUSTMENT DIRECTION Clockwise = Softer Counter Clockwise = Firmer COMPRESSION ADJUSTMENT DIRECTION Clockwise = Firmer Counter Clockwise = Softer

Defying expectations at Fall Carlisle Hagerty News/ 2009-10-07 Carlisle PA was chock-full of cheap and cheerful cars not often seen at auction, in contrast to Monterey where it has become increasingly difficult to find anything under $50,000. Many of the cars in Pennsylvania appeared in fine shape and ready to enjoy. These were a few of our favorites: 1. 1972 Datsun 240Z: Early Zs offer a ton of looks and performance for the money and are particularly rare on the East Coast, where most of them biodegraded some time during the Ford administration. This one, presented in the right shade of Datsun Persimmon Red, looked to be a nice example still wearing its stock – and really unattractive – wheel covers. It was right on the money, selling at $9,500. Both buyer and seller should be happy with this deal.

Replacing your TB with another, even larger one, without substantially upgrading the rest of your engine, will accomplish nothing. It may even slow you down. Do yourself a favor and research this site for lots of information on this subject.

Aeromotive 11101 pump, 13101 regulator, 12301 & 12304 fuel filters. High quality stuff with a price tag to match. You still only get what you pay for and there is no free lunch being served today.

After spending the weekend at Carolina Motorsports Park with Mark and all the other good people who run with the Tar Heel Sports Car Club, let me be one of the first to say Mark's z car is a piece of work! In addition to being extremely well built and good looking, it's rocket ship fast. Mark is a talented and experienced driver and walked away with top honors (FTD). He now breaths the rare air with those who can get around CMP at the blinding lap time of 1:40. Trust me, there are only a few cars, other than open wheelers, who can do this. If only I could find a few more seconds hidden somewhere in my car, I might be able to run with him again. Congratulations Mark. You are the man!

Too much!....That's really some dangerous stuff. Kids, don't try this at home.

The proportioning valve is relatively sensitive and by dialing the valve all the way in one direction, you should be locking the front brakes not just reducing the input to the rears. What are you using for master cylinders? Do you have separate ones for front and rear? Was the valve new when installed? Have you tried to re-bleed the brakes?

I'm not a fan of fast rag tops, but your vette is really nice and looks like a lot of pedel to the metal fun.

MB has be making bad ass cars for a long time and their ongoing involvement in motorsports is well documented. My 1993 500E rocks.

Austin, Your car is really nice. I saw it some time ago, when we met at the wind tunnel test facility. Since then you have made many improvements and I'm sure it's even nicer today than two years ago. Many gear heads are infected with your obvious perfectionism. I have a dose of it and it drives me crazy at times. A true project car, like yours, is NEVER completed and can always be improved. I could not depart with my car (cars) unless I absolutely had to for financial, reasons, etc. But if circumstances allowe, I will always find another project to undertake. Yes, its important to keep your life in balance, but I'm not sure that one can devote too much energy to something that makes you happy and keeps you out of other, worse traps that can rob your life and times. These are my ramblings to add to your thoughts. You're a smart guy and will make the correct decision.

A better way to determine which heat range works best for your particular set up would be "reading" the plug after running it for a while. There are many good articles available on the subject both here on HZ and the web.

Fine ride!

skib, Now and then I read something or see something that is really thought provoking. Your sketch says it all and is a great response without having to state the obvious . Very nice!

What an ass...........I hope they can put him away for a long time. Only a real low life, scum bag would participate in crimes against unsuspecting gear heads and crimes against trusting animals. Yade, yade, rant, rant.

The GtRS cars are in a class all by themselves but I can only dream and watch them pass by with someone else in the drivers seat. There's always the lottery but the adds are very long.

John, I replaced my front mounted oil cooler with a C & R heat exchanger mounted on the side of the engine. This was done to enable me to better direct the frontal air into the radiator and intercooler and reduce operating temperatures on track. Both water and oil temperatures were lowered by about fifteen degrees after the swap. I would like to try the Mobile One 5w-30 but I'm still not convinced that the new oil will protect my engine as well as the 15/50. Engine longevity is my primary concern. What are your thoughts on the subject?

Very informative! After much research, I have been using Mobile One 15/50 plus STP 4 Cylinder Oil Treatment for the added protection of zinc/phosphorus in my race car. I may be sacrificing some hp by not using a thinner oil but I have always weighed that against the added protection the 15/50 may provide. After reading your "Motor Oil School" post a few times, I'm still confident with my choice. The Mobile One Racing Oil web site has this to say about the subject. QUOTE: "Mobil 1 15W-50 is a higher viscosity oil that delivers a thick oil film for protection of high performance engines. While Mobil 1 15W-50 can be used and is recommended for both street and track use, the new Mobil 1 Racing oils are only recommended for use in race engines at the track. Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30 and 0W-20 are lower viscosity oils designed to increase power output versus higher viscosity oils. Most importantly, Mobil 1 Racing oils are formulated with anti-wear (Zinc/Phosphorus) chemistries at twice the level of automotive street oils to protect race engines including high loaded flat tappet designs used in the NASCAR series.

dr hunt, What a rush. I'm glad you are ok and I'm disappointed that you weren't able to give him the just reward he deserved. Too many bad guys are running the streets.

Epoxy concrete patch products normally work very well if installation instructions are followed. They are very visible and will not match the color of the original concrete floor, but this isn't a problem if you are planning to paint or stain the floor. The best "do it yourself" product I have used is Rust-Oleum Concrete Stain. It is imperative that you follow the instructions and even though Rust-Oleum does not specifically state that the floor should be cleaned with acid prior to using, I have had excellent results by taking the extra time to clean with muriatic acid. The old floor MUST be absolutely as clean as you can get it in order to have good results. I did my garage floor four years ago and have punished it with jack stands, engine parts, transmission jacks and all sorts of normal race car repairs. It still looks good with the exception of a few nicks and chips where I have really did a number by dropping bigger things, etc. There are industrial products that are used in factories that are probably more durable but for the Harry home owner, I don't know of a better deal than Rust-Oleum. It's not cheep. If memory serves me, I paid about $250.00 for five gallons.

Yasin, The white car is one of my favorite zx builds. And to all those poeple who don't spread the love for the zx car, take a close look at this one. Nice job!