Mayolives

Tommy, Some have posted their ability to reach down inside the cover with a screwdriver or other tools and wrangle the chain tensonier back into place but my attempts have not worked. The other way is to drop the oil pump, oil pan and remove the cover to reinstall the chain tensonier along with something to keep it in place while you complete the job. Either way it's a PITA and provides another opportunity for you to practice keeping your good humor.

The present engine platform for the IRL is a Honda v8. The plan is to introduce new 2.0 liter engine choices for the 2011 or 2012 season that will have either 4 or 6 cylinders. Rumor has it that Honda and VW are developing new turbo, direct injection, sealed engines designed for as many as 4,000 race miles in order to lower team cost. I think the IRL is a great series and hope they are able to prosper and continue to grow their audience.

I especially like the "track set up" suspended pick up trucks. I'd bet they would handle really well.

Evilc..........Those wheels are really fine. My buddy JT1 has a few sets for his monster track car and at first I thought why would anyone spend all that loot for the CCW wheels. But now I think they are absolutely beautiful and very well made. I wish I had them on my car. If my ship ever comes in again, I have them.

Check out this thread from a few weeks ago. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136153&highlight=wilwood There is a bunch a good information in it. I'm using the AZ set up like yours and I posted what works for me in that thread.

I think Mikelly hit it on the head. Gobs of hp and torque are fun but a well sorted suspension with big brakes on all fours, will serve you better on the road course. If money is no object, then you can have it all but the L6 is a solid platform that you can keep running without spending a fortune. A well prepaired and well driven 2800 lb z car with a 250 hp L6 can really get around the corners.

Fast service and fair pricing. http://www.anplumbing.com/

I have one. PM me if interested.

Heavy85, Can you post pictures of your side exit exhaust?

It is mounted in it's original possition.

If you are planing to do a swap that involves lots of stuff up front like an intercooler, oil cooler, intake plumbing and the like, don't be afraid to cut out the old and bring in the new. After which, follow the suggestions above and provide proper ducting to direct incoming air to where it's needed most.

The Odyssey PC680 is a good set up for a race car without electrical parasites like a radio, lights, etc., but not so good for a daily driver/street car. It's doesn't take much to draw it down. I have the Electromotive Tec3 system and if the battery voltage drops below 9 or 10 volts, the car will not start.

I would suggest that you check out twinturbo.net and search their archives. They are the Z32 guys who could probably help answer your questions about that car.

The two front cam lobes should look about like this.

Step One IMHO: Go back to basics. Look at the areas that you just worked on. Wiring, vac. lines, fuel lines, valve adjustment, proper installation of timing gear on cam would be a good order of your search for the problem.

Roddy, at Speed Deign Inc., fabricated this system for me. Top Side: Bottom Side:

Justin, Do to advanced years and having an old school brain, I'm not a fan of digital gauges. But I am a huge fan of your car. It's really lookin good! Nice work!

After chasing cooling issues for some time, I switched from the CSR electric pump to a manual one and have seen NO difference in cooling. I do have less drain on my charging system which is powered by a small Powermaster alternator

As alluded to above, there are combinations of cylinder sizes, stroke, fluid type and, pads that must be accounted for. When doing my basic adjustments, I followed Mr. Coffee's recommendations by setting the propertioning valve in a natural manner and then fine tuning the system with the balance bar. This is what works for me in my 2400 # road race car. Arizona Big Brake Kit on all corners Wilwood pedals, 5/8", 7/8", 1" Wilwood cylinders Wilwood Knob Style Propertioning Valve Wilwood Remote Balance Bar Cable Adjuster Wilwood "H" Poly-Matrix Pads on all corners Motuol 600 fluid

Thanks for the video. Those cars are over the top! If my "boat ever comes in" before I leave this life, I'm going to have one.

If you are using lots of oil, as you have stated, and you have good compression on all the cylinders and are not leaking oil, the you are probably in need of some head work. While you at it, drop the oil pan, clean it and the oil pickup. Check and replace sender unit and oil gauge as needed and you should be good to go without spending a fortune. By the way, you need to filter the "type of oil" information above, especially the 20/50 myth. While I'm not recommending what oil for you to use in your car, I will tell you that I have driven z cars for many miles and years using 20/50 castroil. Is it the best? There is no best! It's what works for you. Get the picture?

Led Zeppelin's early music is still bad ass, classic stuff and the "right and wrong" of who actually wrote the lyrics does not diminish the performance. Their body of work is some of the best rock music every pressed on vinyl.

MSA normally stocks the KAMEARI gasket. Also, these people will make copper gaskets to your spec. http://www.headgasket.com/index.html

I'm using an Ultrashield deluxe road race seat. My seat/safety knowledge has increased by leaps and bounds in the last few years and I would probably NOT use any of the less expensive aluminum seats if I was in the market today. The seat is a very important part of you safety equipment I would really like to have a Butler or Lajoie seat in my car. The custom seat people make a much better/more safe product but they cost a lot more than the cheepies. Too bad, it's all about money again.

tonycharger72, Your work is yet another example of why Hybriz is such a valuable resource for those who need detailed help or inspiration. Please post more pictures as job progresses.