Mayolives

I'm not sure what your application is but I'm using DEI products on my gutted, track car with very good results. Prior installing the DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield material, my right foot would bake and the transmission tunnel could nearly burn your after several minutes of track time. I needed to keep a glove on my hand to exit the car to prevent frying it while maneuvering over the bars and out of the car then dance around with one really hot foot. This, of course, was due to the proximity of the downpipe and exhaust system. I used a 4' x 42" piece of the shield and had enough material to cover the underside area effected by the exhaust and cover the driver's side firewall, floor and tunnel side. This really made a big difference and a much more bearable situation in the summer time heat. Also, I used DEI products to wrap some fuel lines and the cell at the rear of the car and turbo oil and cooling lines near the exhaust header up front. It's all good stuff and the adhesive backing works great on clean surfaces. That's my two cents worth!

Is it possable? Was the original post an April Fool's joke and we fell for it? Race car Engineer Magazine posted the article below as an April fools joke and many fell of us fell it until the truth was revealed. QUOTE: From Racecar Engineering Mag: German auto maker shows off radical new W16 design concept for 2011 IRL "The Indianapolis 500 will exclusively use VW power in 2011 Racecar can exclusively reveal. VAG's new engines will be based on a revolutionary quad turbo W16 design. The two litre powerplants are said to be highly efficient and only use three quarters of the fuel used in the current IRL spec engines. Whilst all the engine blocks will be identical a number of different cylinder head and bottom end layouts are available, each is to be badged by a different part of the VAG company, most notably Porsche. The most interesting variant is the triple crankshaft Bugatti branded unit, which trades off incredile efficiency and marginally higher power against increased weight and a higher centre of gravity." END QUOTE:

quote: How do i line up #1 TDC without the mark on the balancer? Remove the spark plugs, vallve cover and then check the adjustment on the valves. Turn the engine over by using the bolt on the crank damper until number one cylinder (the one in front) is on the top and on compression stroke. You can use your thumb to feel the compression coming up and then use a tool to feel the piston reach the top of the stroke. The two front lobes on the cam should look like the picture below and you should then be on top dead center and on the damper timing mark.

007240Z....Your response, IMHO, is spot on and should be helpful to the very appropriate question that was ask. KTM....I don't want to start a pissing contest but to refer a new member to another site for advice, who posted a legitimate question, is not what I hope this site is about. Let's not get our noses too high in the air, and turn away new members who want to grow along with the reat of us non experts.

I have both ARP studs and Arizona Z Car's oil pan and have no clearance issues. Perhaps you shouldn't use that toilet paper pan gasket. Have you questioned Dave?

SUGGESTION...............When I searched "overheating problems" using the SEARCH button located at the top, I found 95 posts. Give it a try. Do some reading and then, If you still need help, ask a more refined question.

locodrftr. There are many extremely experienced, knowledgeable, and talented fabricators who are Hybridz contributors. They often turn out very impressive parts. Your intake is a good first effort and contribution to the cause.

Tommy, Some have posted their ability to reach down inside the cover with a screwdriver or other tools and wrangle the chain tensonier back into place but my attempts have not worked. The other way is to drop the oil pump, oil pan and remove the cover to reinstall the chain tensonier along with something to keep it in place while you complete the job. Either way it's a PITA and provides another opportunity for you to practice keeping your good humor.

The present engine platform for the IRL is a Honda v8. The plan is to introduce new 2.0 liter engine choices for the 2011 or 2012 season that will have either 4 or 6 cylinders. Rumor has it that Honda and VW are developing new turbo, direct injection, sealed engines designed for as many as 4,000 race miles in order to lower team cost. I think the IRL is a great series and hope they are able to prosper and continue to grow their audience.

I especially like the "track set up" suspended pick up trucks. I'd bet they would handle really well.

Evilc..........Those wheels are really fine. My buddy JT1 has a few sets for his monster track car and at first I thought why would anyone spend all that loot for the CCW wheels. But now I think they are absolutely beautiful and very well made. I wish I had them on my car. If my ship ever comes in again, I have them.

Check out this thread from a few weeks ago. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136153&highlight=wilwood There is a bunch a good information in it. I'm using the AZ set up like yours and I posted what works for me in that thread.

I think Mikelly hit it on the head. Gobs of hp and torque are fun but a well sorted suspension with big brakes on all fours, will serve you better on the road course. If money is no object, then you can have it all but the L6 is a solid platform that you can keep running without spending a fortune. A well prepaired and well driven 2800 lb z car with a 250 hp L6 can really get around the corners.

Fast service and fair pricing. http://www.anplumbing.com/

I have one. PM me if interested.

Heavy85, Can you post pictures of your side exit exhaust?

It is mounted in it's original possition.

If you are planing to do a swap that involves lots of stuff up front like an intercooler, oil cooler, intake plumbing and the like, don't be afraid to cut out the old and bring in the new. After which, follow the suggestions above and provide proper ducting to direct incoming air to where it's needed most.

The Odyssey PC680 is a good set up for a race car without electrical parasites like a radio, lights, etc., but not so good for a daily driver/street car. It's doesn't take much to draw it down. I have the Electromotive Tec3 system and if the battery voltage drops below 9 or 10 volts, the car will not start.

I would suggest that you check out twinturbo.net and search their archives. They are the Z32 guys who could probably help answer your questions about that car.

The two front cam lobes should look about like this.

Step One IMHO: Go back to basics. Look at the areas that you just worked on. Wiring, vac. lines, fuel lines, valve adjustment, proper installation of timing gear on cam would be a good order of your search for the problem.

Roddy, at Speed Deign Inc., fabricated this system for me. Top Side: Bottom Side:

Justin, Do to advanced years and having an old school brain, I'm not a fan of digital gauges. But I am a huge fan of your car. It's really lookin good! Nice work!

After chasing cooling issues for some time, I switched from the CSR electric pump to a manual one and have seen NO difference in cooling. I do have less drain on my charging system which is powered by a small Powermaster alternator