Mayolives

Yes, I am using the IAC. It's installed at the rear of the intake manifold. Your question opens up another trend of thought for me. According to the Tech3r manual, the IAC allows air into the intake, even with the throttle plate closed. So having no hole in the throttle plate should not effect the engine's starting.

BRAAP......Good information. After reading your explanation of the hole in the plate and the ports, I doubt my starting problem is caused by the lack of a hole. The engine idles good after it finally starts so apparently it is getting the needed air through the ports. I'll check the adjustment on the TPS with a volt meter and hopefully therein the problem will lie. I suspect it isn't sending the proper signal to the Electromotive brain.

I would go back to basics and search for the cause of the water leak and subsequent overheating. Apply pressure to the radiator and then carefully inspect your cooling system. In what condition are your hoses? Pressure test the radiator cap. Does your heater leak? Do you have any coolant mixed with the oil in the sump? Remove the spark plugs and inspect them and the tops of your pistons for signs of coolant leaking into the chambers. Is your thermostat operating properly? When did you last flush your radiator and cooling system. In what condition is the water pump? Apparently the coolant went somewhere and you will discover where if you do a careful search. The problem will not fix itself or magically go away.

Why do some throttle bodies have a small hole drilled in the throttle plate and others do not? My newly installed RB type throttle body does not have the hole and the engine doesn't start well. It runs great but starts very hard, cold or hot. The new throttle body replaced one from a BMW and it had the hole in it's plate.

You should be able to find a local cv rebuilder. Atlantic Enterprises is located here in SC and rebuilds for many of the big name parts houses like Advance Auto. They are happy to work with individuals and do good, one day rebuilds for about $80.00 but the shipping would kill you.

I would love a car fax for the following vin#. Thanks, Mayolives. WDBEA36E4PB974052

z64v.........Your Quote....."Butterflies only open one way." Not to be argumentative, but what the hell. I beg to differ with your broad statement. My old BMW throttle body open opposite of the new Nissan piece.

Yes, I suspect it could have been don that way, but it would have involved fabricating another way to attach the Lokar cable system on the other side of the intake. I always like taking the path of least resistance if it produces a good result.

Derek, I reversed the 5 volt and the ground wires for the TPS and all is well. Here is a picture of the new throttle body. JT1, Looks like I'll make it to CMP. The new side exhaust exit, in front of the pass. rear tire, has only three inches of clearance. Roddy at SDI made the piece for me. We came off the straight 3" in front of the diff with a 3" round leading into a flat section 1.5" x 6" to the frame rail. I'm a bit concerned about getting on and off the trailer.

I now have two solutions to the backwards working throttle position sensor problem. I had decided on doing the first one but then talked with my Electromotive guy who suggested the second one. I sure am lucky to have friends who know more the I do. 1. Use a Dremel tool to cut a "D" shaped hole through the back side of the tps and mount it on the opposite side from which it was intended. 2. Reverse the wiring by exchanging the positions of the 5 volt and the ground wires. The other wire is for the output signal.

I needed to replace my worn throttle body and used an 80mm piece used on RB26DETT engines. All went well with having an adapter fabricated and welded to my intake, installing the new Lokar cable and completing the plumbing. I'm using a "D" type, Bosch style throttle position sensor that was supplied with my Electromotive Tech3r system. Due to the new throttle body opening clockwise, and the old one (from a BMW) opening counter clockwise, my TPS is backwards on the throttle plate shaft, rendering it useless. I tried to open up the TPS to see it could be reversed, internally, but only managed to destroy a perfectly good, $100.00 sensor. Certainly there must be a way to work this out but at present I'm brain dead and stumped. What can I do? As usual, I'm down to the wire doing eleventh hour work because I'm scheduled to run with NASA next weekend at Carolina Motorsports Park.

There is good advice in most of the above posts but the MOST important thing you should do is have a competent lawyer who is familiar with the traffic court in your jurisdiction, in you corner. Your best course of action, IMHO, would be to have your lawyer cut a deal with the powers that be, stay out of the court room, take your medicine and pay the fine. The old saying, "A man who represents himself in court, has a fool for attorney," is all too true. Don't make that mistake!

I suspect you are going to run into some rule problems, due to the exhaust exiting in front of the driver, when you decide to track your car.

Looks good! I'm anxious to see how much heat you will need to suffer through and what the sound level situation is like. Please keep us posted with how it works out.

Really take a close look at the body and rust issues. A decent L28 drive train will cost far less than any serious body work.

When I was a high school student, eons ago, I worked part time at a local garage/service station. I did a lot of oil changes and on that particular dark day in history, the pick up truck that I had just raised on a four point lift, started to teeter and listed to the front right and then continued to tumble off it's perch on the lift, onto it's side and landed on the garage floor. Man what a rush! It was apparent to all that I had not used to best lift points on the truck and that I was solely responsible for what had happened. My boss was reasonably cool with my major fu++ up and I continued to work for him until I moved on to bigger and better things

Jon, Please post pictures when you get around to installing the vents.

I am very weight conscious but I didn't weigh the DEI stuff prior to installation. Keep in mind what you are trying to accomplish. If I did gain a pound it would be worth it to me.

I'm not sure what your application is but I'm using DEI products on my gutted, track car with very good results. Prior installing the DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield material, my right foot would bake and the transmission tunnel could nearly burn your after several minutes of track time. I needed to keep a glove on my hand to exit the car to prevent frying it while maneuvering over the bars and out of the car then dance around with one really hot foot. This, of course, was due to the proximity of the downpipe and exhaust system. I used a 4' x 42" piece of the shield and had enough material to cover the underside area effected by the exhaust and cover the driver's side firewall, floor and tunnel side. This really made a big difference and a much more bearable situation in the summer time heat. Also, I used DEI products to wrap some fuel lines and the cell at the rear of the car and turbo oil and cooling lines near the exhaust header up front. It's all good stuff and the adhesive backing works great on clean surfaces. That's my two cents worth!

Is it possable? Was the original post an April Fool's joke and we fell for it? Race car Engineer Magazine posted the article below as an April fools joke and many fell of us fell it until the truth was revealed. QUOTE: From Racecar Engineering Mag: German auto maker shows off radical new W16 design concept for 2011 IRL "The Indianapolis 500 will exclusively use VW power in 2011 Racecar can exclusively reveal. VAG's new engines will be based on a revolutionary quad turbo W16 design. The two litre powerplants are said to be highly efficient and only use three quarters of the fuel used in the current IRL spec engines. Whilst all the engine blocks will be identical a number of different cylinder head and bottom end layouts are available, each is to be badged by a different part of the VAG company, most notably Porsche. The most interesting variant is the triple crankshaft Bugatti branded unit, which trades off incredile efficiency and marginally higher power against increased weight and a higher centre of gravity." END QUOTE:

quote: How do i line up #1 TDC without the mark on the balancer? Remove the spark plugs, vallve cover and then check the adjustment on the valves. Turn the engine over by using the bolt on the crank damper until number one cylinder (the one in front) is on the top and on compression stroke. You can use your thumb to feel the compression coming up and then use a tool to feel the piston reach the top of the stroke. The two front lobes on the cam should look like the picture below and you should then be on top dead center and on the damper timing mark.

007240Z....Your response, IMHO, is spot on and should be helpful to the very appropriate question that was ask. KTM....I don't want to start a pissing contest but to refer a new member to another site for advice, who posted a legitimate question, is not what I hope this site is about. Let's not get our noses too high in the air, and turn away new members who want to grow along with the reat of us non experts.

I have both ARP studs and Arizona Z Car's oil pan and have no clearance issues. Perhaps you shouldn't use that toilet paper pan gasket. Have you questioned Dave?

SUGGESTION...............When I searched "overheating problems" using the SEARCH button located at the top, I found 95 posts. Give it a try. Do some reading and then, If you still need help, ask a more refined question.

locodrftr. There are many extremely experienced, knowledgeable, and talented fabricators who are Hybridz contributors. They often turn out very impressive parts. Your intake is a good first effort and contribution to the cause.