Mayolives

The red car looks like a really fine car with the oil cooler mounted in poor location. Lots of bad things could happen to a cooler mounted there. Including, but not limited to rear impacts (even minor), damage due to road debris, problems caused by loading and unloading car on trailer, etc etc. A better place might be tucked up and under the rear quarter panel and rear of the fuel cell/tank.

Here is a picture that will give you some idea of the existing angles at full "droop". This is a picture of the car that is on Arizona Z Car' site.

JMORTENSEN and Ross C, I don't have a Quaife. I'm using and Nissan 3:70 LSD unit from an 87 turbo car. I really don't know about the rear wheel lift situation but have been know to run over a curb or two. I'm using stock control arms.The car sets about as low as we could get it. The spring rate is very stiff as you remember Ross and I will need to check the control arm angle and get back to you. Thank you for your help and suggestions.

John, The only way to shorten them more than what I already did, ie: reversing the mechanism on one end, would be to somehow cut the shafts size down a bit and weld them back together.

I need input from anyone using 300zxt cv axles with an r200 lsd differential . I'm using Modern Motorsports cv adapters with their axles and I have just destroyed the second cv axle. The first one, on the driver's side, lasted less than 30 minutes on track. The passenger side one had less than two hours of trace time before it disintegrated. Both axles came apart at the inside bearing/race area closest to the differential. Should I have any "play" when the axles are installed? My axles have a snug fit and appear to be fully depressed when installed. These are all new, straight, clean parts installed using Ross's instructions including shortening the cv axles.

bjhines quote "I have posted pics of these ideas numerous times... and I have had the ideas shot down numerous times by a few experts here" Ben, I will not shoot down your thoughts and suggestions. They are well thought out and I'll put them to good use. I've purchased a Tilton pump and I'm searching for a deal on a small Setrab cooler. I'm sure these will work well with your mounting suggestions and go a long way to help cool the rear end. Also, I have decided to pull the 3:36 from my parts car and order a new Quaife. This will give me a slightly taller ratio than my present 3:70 and I hope to be able to get more use form second gear, especially coming out of Oak Tree at VIR. The 3:70 make second to low there and I bog a little having to use third.

John, I contacted Fluidyne about an integrated pump/cooler. Their response . is listed in quotes below. Also, the available unit measures 15" x 14" x 9" and weighs 17.5 lbs. "The only cooler/shroud/fan package which we are currently producing is our part number DB-30612 or DB-30613. These coolers can be used for engine, transmission, or differential cooling. Here is a link to our website where you can view the coolers. http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_soc.html We formerly manufactured a smaller unit, part number DB-30900/DB-30901, but these have been discontinued." Steve Ribelin Account/Technical Representative FLUIDYNE High Performance and PowerSports 4850 E. Airport Dr Ontario, CA 91761 909-390-3944 extension 267 Fax 909-390-3950

Thanks for the info Mark. Apparently the best pump to have is made by Flojet and is marketed under the names of Tilton, Mocal and Genesis Technologies. Prices vary from $230 to $180 from the suppliers I found. Racer Parts Wholesale and HRP World offer the lowest price. The post I have read recommend using an-8 size supply lines for better flow and mounting the pump on the return side of the cooler to keep the pump coolest. Can I assume that I need to drill and tap the differential case near the bottom for the line going to the cooler/pump and another one towards the top for the return line?

John, Thanks for the leads. I will search for more info and post the results for others to see. As to the hp comments about my poor little six banger, I didn't have enough power to twist my axle into pieces like someone else I know.

I need to install an oil cooler system on my differential and have found many belt and shaft driven pumps to use but have been unable to locate a 12 volt one. Any suggestions as to which 12 volt pump I should use? Any general suggestions about the install. I have located a small Setrab cooler to use but have not decided where to locate it. I'm considering installing a fan on the cooler to provide more air flow when needed.

Nice body!

I did # 1 using the Wilwood setup. We decided not to mount the reservoirs on the inside of the car due to the potential for spills or leaks but instead, installed them under the cowl grill. The top grill is easy to access because I don't have windshield wipers. There are four screws that hold it in place. Also, this really cleaned up the firewall area in front of the driver's seat.

This quote is from an earlier post by technicalninja. "Changing the pilot bearing is a good idea when replacing any clutch part. This part is also an across the board part. Any 240z-280ZX part number will work fine. You have to remove clutch then remove it with a bearing removal tool. Many parts stores will lend or rent this tool. There are ways to get this out with out the tool but save your self the hassle and obtain the tool- it will save time and sanity."

Mark, I will be at CMP for some tests on the 14th.