240Z2NV

Yea Tim, you might be right there. Catalyzed Primers (two part) may not need sealing, I don't have my PPG sheets handy. I'll never forget my first experience with 'lifting'. The vocational school where I learned to paint had no idea, so the reps from PPG came out and had me spraying all sorts of products on it. A major cluster fuk; but, this was MANY years ago and the products have been refined a great deal. That was back when lacquer was commonly sprayed for colorcoat, and urethanes were brand new. I recently had a 'flashback' with lifting while trying to coat the interior (drive tunnel, floorboards, etc.). I mixed what I thought were compatible products (these happened to be truck bedliner products) as one quart ran out and I opened a gallon of another brand and...voila! The second application lifted the first. Shite!! It just brought up that frustration from 'yesteryear', so I got caught up in the cautionary warnings to our novice painter. *This just in* Check out http://www.smartshoppersinc.com I won an auction for their truck bedliner 'kit' on eBay because it was even cheaper than WalMart, and for floorboards, who cares? It arrived today, and they put some promotional flyers in the box. They have some paint 'package' pricing that is darn hard to beat (especially for a first-time job!). Some of their products are not widely known brands; but, some are (e.g. House Of Kolor). They had a couple of deals that I know that my local paint supply place can't touch...and they give me 'shop rates' which is usually 20% off. I still think that http://www.midwayautosupply.com has(had) the best deal on the Titan 3 & 4 gun sets. I tried to 'link' them; but, I don't see the gun sets listed anymore. If interested, I would call them.

Generally you have layers: Surface (metal), factory primer (sometimes epoxy), factory paint (usually enamel), factory clearcoat (if metallic). Now that you are adding to those layers rather than removing all of them back to metal, you run a risk of 'lifting' which is caused by solvents penetrating original/previous layers and then 'bouncing' back up creating small krinkle-like cracks. This often occurs when mixing lacquers and enamels, and some urethanes, and more. To avoid that penetration and to avoid any 'bleed through' from the original/previous layers, you apply Sealer or Barrier Coat (same thing). It merely creates the protection from solvents penetrating beyond that barrier which will, in turn, prevent that lifting or bleed through. So, some put that coat on before the primer and others put it on after the primer and before topcoating (color). 'Topcoat' is just that...the TOP coat (with the exception of clear). When you are using clear (most commonly with metallics) you are using a basecoat/clearcoat or two stage system. Irridescent and pearl finishes (ones that look like multiple colors depending on the sun refraction) are considered three stage systems. The most common on cars is the two stage system (again, basecoat and clearcoat [for shine, depth and durability]). To simplify, when you go to the supply house and decide which brand that you will be using, follow their guide. They have sheets for each product that will tell you everything that you need to do (including surface preparation - e.g. sanding). It will also tell you when the sealer is best used for their line. That should eliminate most of the confusion. My explanations may be making it worse, so I would just go off of the sheets for the products.

Step 2.5 OR 3.5 is to spray Sealer. Follow label, usually topcoating with first coat of primer when it 'flashes'. Either way, you will want to put down a 'barrier coat' before or after the primer surfacer. If you do it after, then you apply it JUST before the color. One of the great informational websites is 'paintucation' , I believe. Plan on multiple Step 6s, also if the dents and dings are minor the filler that you use isn't as critical. It was recommended by a pro that does alot of concours jobs to use Tap Plastics Tap 500 filler. Sands really easily with no 'pinholing'.

I like "Ned's". They are a PPG supplier, so if you prefer DuPont I don't think that they can help. Otherwise, great guys. They might carry HOK; but, I only use PPG so that is all I look for when I go in. Truck looks awesome, Tim...especially for a "driveway" job!!

Yup, your compressor will pretty much drive any tool that you put on it..... Another suggestion: Get different colored primers/sealers (e.g. Red Oxide & Gray or Black & 'Buff'). That way it will be much easier to stop sanding before going into lower level material. Also, use ALOT of 'guidecoats' (rattle can 'misting' over the panel) for your blocksanding. When you've sanded the guidecoat off, spray on more, sand more. Then, spray on more primer surfacer and repeat. Oh, take about 600-800 mg of Ibuprofen BEFORE your 'Blocksanding Day'...your shoulders will thank you for it.

Owen, I agree with Tim, the two speed units were on the 3.8L; but, yours appears to be the right one (3 wires), so I would guess that the extra 'relays/fuses/?' were because it was some sort of retrofit where it didn't originally exist on the 3.0s. The 'big deal' on the Taurus fans for those of you who are considering options is that they had a pretty significant cfm rating on the air that they pulled. Super engineered; HOWEVER, they do pull alot of amps (discussed alot on this forum). ALSO, they are relatively inexpensive and plentiful, as compared to some $200+ Flex-A-Lite or Spal unit.

If you get the "Cherry Picker" (Harbor Freight, PepBoys, Kragen...) I'd suggest the folding unit (around $150) and the 'load leveler' (around $25) which is the crank attachment that allows you to change the "angle of the dangle" ;~)

I have the Titan set(s). One, I got on eBay for less than $100 delivered, and the other from Midway Auto Supply (?)...one more gun and even cheaper! I pretty much think of them as disposable for the money that they cost, and for a novice they will be just fine. Parts (different tip sizes, filters, etc.) are also reasonably available from Titan, whereas Harbor Freight is impossible to get parts from. Do a search under "Titan" here.. As for the DA, one of the critical figures in the pricing and for your needs will be the cfm requirements of the sander. The higher the number, the better the compressor volume that you will need, the lower the number of cfm the less air demand it will have. Cheap DAs usually have very high cfm requirements. As for painting techniques, prep, etc. there are alot of great, informative websites out there that will tell you basically everything that you need to know step-by-step for FREE, just spend some time 'surfing'. You might also PM 'RacerX' as he is pretty much the 'go to' guy on this forum. Although Tim240Z pretty much covered it all. Last little tidbit, if you are spending the big $$ for House of Kolor material and you are a novice painter, experiment ALOT while shooting your primer coats, you don't want to be 'figuring out' your technique on $200/gallon paint. Also, make sure that the Sealer and Catalyzed Primers that you use will be compatible, as well as compatible with the paint (i.e. be careful mixing-n-matching brands or product lines). My .02

You pretty much summed it all up. I used very thick (.25" I believe) angle steel as opposed to a true 'boxing' in. Made template for holes, drilled holes into reinforcing piece, and welded about eight inch piece in place. The only issue is whether or not you want to cut out the OE 'nuts' inside the rail and go all the way through or just reinforce the rail and use the OE 'nuts'. I have done it on my last three 240s (it is a very common problem with oversized sway bars on early Zs) and never run the bolt through. But, I'm not doing full-on racing either. I solid welded the entire edge of the reinforcing pieces; but, after reading here more I would have stitch welded the edges instead if done again.

Can't believe that some of you 'experienced' riders are recommending 1000cc & 1200cc bikes for a young, NOVICE rider..!?!?....(wish I knew how to put those icons on that 'bop' one another on the head).

Maybe the guy is coming by his money through illegitimate means or has more money than sense. He buys things on a whim, pays for them, and doesn't think much about it after that....? His money was good, and so it was with the other eBay sellers. Seems to me that he just doesn't care either way. I definitely would NOT have continued to incur the storage costs. Unfortunatley, I think that you'll end up eating that part out of the proceeds. eBay Dispute Resolution is like trying to give him forty lashes with well-cooked spaghetti. It is just no longer considered a big deal, they are just impotent at enforcing proper conduct... Talk to your DMV.

When you were detailing your headlight lens cutting efforts, I wonder if you might have had an easier time using a Dremel with the Flex Shaft attachment? Great for small detail cuts like you described, and pretty inexpensive on eBay. As for your court judgement...and collecting. Those people will never be able to won or sell property (homes) until the judgement is 'satisfied' in court records. Sounds like the caliber of people that you had to sue would never be able to own real property anyway though. Garnishing their wages is probably the only recourse...until they go 'underground' and not use their SS# for wages earned. That is one of those very frustrating aspects of being 'awarded' a judgement. The monetary amount of the judgement may be just (or, more than just); but, collecting on that judgement is a whole other bucket 'o worms. Hope that it works out for you....

My advice, having ridden for more than twenty years....DON'T RIDE TWO-UP (meaning with passenger). ESPECIALLY if you are a novice rider. Even with the MSF course, and I think that you'd be foolish not to take it, you will lack the experience to safely handle 'emergency situations' with someone else on the back. If you want the responsibility of their well-being when other drivers in cars aren't looking for you...... Most serious long term cyclists will tell you that crashes ARE going to happen. It is not a question of "If", it is a question of "When". Therefore the recommendation earlier of budgeting $1k for safety equipment was very sound. Skin grafts are extremely painful, and extremely expensive. So, riding to 'the gym' in your tank top is just plain dumb. As far as bikes, I have owned all of the major manufacturers bikes (including HD), and I am very partial to Honda. You won't beat their engineering and reliability. Don't know what size you are; but, find a bike that you can comfortably reach the ground...not 'tippy toes'. For the usage that you mentioned, you will probably be perfectly happy with around 500cc. My .02

First, let me preface this by saying that you have virtually nothing to lose in going to see it...except time. I know that it is easy to fall into a mindset that "well, I've come all this way, I hate to go home empty handed"; but, that can be dangerous. The seller seems forthright enough to provide you with ALOT of pics. For several hundred bucks, most sellers wouldn't bother. So, that's a good thing. And, you have gotten so much input here and have enough expertise in general automotive repairs that you have an idea of what is good and what is bad. Now for the pessimism. I find it hard to believe that with such a rusty door and hatch area, that the rest of the car will be relatively 'cancer' free. "Where there is smoke, there is usually fire". The frame rails look suspect, and I've seen floor patches before that were literally a piece of metal glued to the floor (and I'm not talking the super-strength two-part adhesive glue...just glue). It will ultimately boil down to the notion of how much metal work and 'cancer surgery' you can live with doing. As stated earlier, there are some great patch panels available for just about every area, and they aren't that expensive. They just require skill and ambition.

I am of an alternative point of view on the "Reserve" issue (sorry that it seems that the eBayers have hijacked this thread). I have been told by professional sellers on eBay that statistically, the most profits are generated by items that start at .99 , 1.00, 9.99 (low). What the seller is counting on is the bidding frenzy that many get caught up in. Yes, it is a bit of a gamble; but, the higher the stakes the higher the potential gain. I always start my auctions off at $1.00 and hope for the best. I've only been 'burned' maybe two or three times in over 100 selling transactions (over 250 overall transactions). If someone has a minimum ('Reserve') that they will accept, it seems more logical to start the opening bid at that price. Many buyers get turned off by bidding in small increments only to see that dreaded red "X" ('Reserve not met'). I find it to be an unappealing 'game' on the part of the seller...."Guess what it is going to take to buy my item?". Generally , I avoid items with reserves; but, as I freely admit and most of you know by now, I'll always look for a way to get twenty five cents out of a nickel...(a great deal). So, I think that Reserve Pricing doesn't help the seller or the buyer. If I politely ask the seller if they will disclose the reserve and they refuse, I move on to another item. I refuse to pay retail prices on eBay as well, it defeats the whole point of it.

This is what many would spend alot of initial start-up money for, then sell off parts; but, what a clean start: http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/93971683.html Not the ideal if planning alot of body mods; but, for someone looking for a really clean 'runner'.....?

I guess you'll be giving him positive Feedback ;~) Gotta love that delivery service! Enjoy the purchase...light years beyond my capabilities; but, right up your alley! Love great eBay acquisitions!

If he has documentation on the engine build, someone might give you a few hundred dollars. It is hard otherwise to sell an engine based upon secondhand credibility. Stock motors, even with some go-fast goodies don't seem to get much on local postings unless they have good documentation to back up the claims. If you are able to get a couple hundred, and can 'deduct' that from the initial investment of the car, then you'll be really well-off $$ wise. From experience, it is very hard to sell motors without 'papers' unless it is a very high demand motor, which the stock Z motor really isn't.

I am a long way from my electrical install but always look forward to the learning experience. My plan is to use the Taurus fan on my LS1 hybrid, as well. I'm curious, and forgive my ignorance, but no one has mentioned the Volvo two speed relay that was also noted in the JTR manual. I was under the impression that the JTR guys were the ones to come up with the Taurus fan recommendation, and the Volvo relay as well. So could any of these problems be from not using that relay or are many of you guys who are already 'there' using the relay as well? Again, I'm a fish out of water with electrical issues; but, trying to learn. I went to alot of trouble to find that Volvo relay, and if it is not going to help with the newer ECU and LS1, then it was just an unnecessary step. The information, albeit mostly over my head, is going to prove useful to me (someday) and others for sure.

Hood hinge area is bad, and right door would probably be easier to replace than fix the crease. If you're happy with the interior style of the 280, then it looks very promising. Especially if it can be had for under $500.....hope it goes well.

When I look at it, my mind goes to the Panoz...

Plenty in CA, as well. Check http://www.craigslist.org it is a free posting service, so many of the items listed are very inexpensive. I buy off of this site quite frequently....

Dr. Hunt, I am frequently on eBay and I don't think that the way that you won the auction was truly a snipe. I admit that I have gotten frustrated in the past, losing an auction in the last five seconds; but, I figured that I just didn't need it bad enough. I never new about those "eSnipe" programs until another hybrider told me about them. Never new how to even find the 'service'; but, I know that I've lost out due to them. While frustrating sometimes, I don't really think that there is anything wrong with it. I mean if I bid the highest amount that I want to pay and I lose....then I didn't want it as bad as the other person. I also agree that eBay has become far more like retail these days. I have been on it for about seven years and it has gotten progressively worse. The absolute worst part is the caliber of people that eBay has attracted. I sent an email to the 'new' President suggesting that they enforce more strict punishment and FOLLOWTHROUGH when it comes to Deadbeat Bidders or very misrepresented items. I had more than a dozen auctions of various Craftsman tools one week and HALF of the winning bidders never paid for the item!! The punishment is so weak it isn't a deterrent for shitbags....

Fun link......

Hmmm JOHN, don't recall mentioning any names in my last post. The car that you "seen" at my place has nothing to do with American's search for a shell; however, you choose to continue to misrepresent facts. Since this thread is for the benefit of American, why don't you start a new thread where we can discuss what you said, what I said, what you did, what I did...the FACTS will speak LOUD and CLEAR! The craigslist car with coilovers for $350 that I attached early in this thread would be what most consider a great start. The car above would generate mixed opinions.....