240Z2NV

Thanks Jody! I guess that maybe I should take them to a machine shop. I don't have an Arbor Press [anymore], and unfortunately, I was following the directions [and got ahead of myself] and put the grease packet in already. Doh! Messy!

I hate always being the one to ask the dumb questions; but, how are the machined travel stops supposed to be installed into the CV housings?! I have screwed around for about an hour trying to get ONE into the CV housing. I have it in a vise, with a clamp on the other side and a strip of 1/4" steel across to try to even out the pressure. The steel is bending but the 'cap' isn't going in. WTF? I must be doing something wrong here! Please help!

In fairness, I want to acknowledge that Ross responded to my inquiry/request very quickly once he finally saw my post. Thank you to Ross & Modern Motorpsorts.

Did you ever get an answer?!

Contact Techno Toy Tuning

Ditto....

Owen, You threw out the possibility of a Ford earlier in the thread. I know that LS's are the schiznit here; but, the 4.6 Mustang motor should be VERY easy to find. Possibly cheaper. And Sean Hyland Motorsports seems to be able to get darn good hp figures out of them relatively easy. Granted, I'll be the first to say that the LS motor is probably the easiest build-up that's been done here based upon all of the successful builds; BUT, since they are so popular in the hotrodding world, you might find a 4.6 set-up (alternatively) CHEEEEEEP!??! Good luck. P.S. The jdm quick-change deal seems to be a sidestep that you will not easily recoup the $$. Poke your nose around the 4.6 sites out there.....

Did anyone of you, by chance, take alot of pics assembling your rear suspension after getting Ross' Adjustable Rear Control Arms? If you prefer you can PM me...Thanks!

It is my understanding that the roller kit is merely for 'texturing'. I slather it on with chip brushes (Harbor Freight), then run the roller over it as it tacks up for texturing (when that finish is desired). I definitely would not use the roller to get the material from the tray onto the surface.....

They are very good. Hard to get parts though. Coleman bought them out a while back. I got rebuild parts for mine after some lengthy internet searching. If interested, email me directly and I'll dig out the source. Nice guys. handymanstan@comcast.net

Try this deal out. I have purchased several of these 'kits' from them. Even cheaper than Walmart, and the material is similar to all of the other options for do-it-yourself bedliners. I used it on a truck tool box, to seal the counters before cement backerboard on an outdoor kitchen, etc. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMPLETE-TRUCK-BED-LINER-SYSTEM_W0QQitemZ4607476672QQcategoryZ63702QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

My sentiments exactly.......

I've got FIVE R200s from Q45s in my garage. They are HEAVY. I'm anxious to hear the shipping cost from Malaysia......

Great job for your first 'go round'. I have posted before regarding good buys on gun sets. I just found another, even lower price on the recommended Titan 4pc. (THREE gun) set. It was at http://www.dodgetopia.com go over to the left under "manufacturers" (or brands?) and scroll down to Titan. I had paid around $90 delivered from http://www.midwayautosupply.com ; but, the 'dodge' site has them for under $80 (didn't check shipping). Then you will have dedicated guns for all of the materials that you will shoot. They are proven units, several of the members here have used them with very good results. Keep up the good work. Oh, and the PPG DPLF is GREAT stuff...not that much more than what you paid for the other, though(?). Lastly, Lacquer Thinner is a great all around solvent for cleaning (guns), and Lowe's has about the best price that you will find on five gallon containers...cheaper than autobody supply shops.

I actually pulled two sets of those lights from a couple of DeVilles at the jy last year with a similar idea in mind (double layer though...like '68 Firebird). Member "Owen" photoshopped them onto a pic. I decided not to go quite 'that' custom; but, it did look cool. I wish that I knew how to post them. Maybe I can email them to an Admin. friend who can post them...... Since I decided to stay closer to stock, I was going to sell the sets on eBay. As you said, they are a popular and great look for custom trucks. If you use them on your Z, I'm pretty certain that you will be the first.....

I essentially used "Phantom's" first version, and feel it worked out well and was simple and unobtrusive. One bar horizontally attaching to welded-in tabs near the shock tower tops, then a diagonal bar from the top (just below the horizontal mount point) of one tower to the bottom of the opposite tower. So, one shock tower has two sets of tabs holding the bars near the top, and the other tower has a pair of tabs at the top and a pair at the bottom. Email me directly if you like, and I'll send a pic. Never learned how to post here....

I sure do envy you guys that have an 'inside track' on the emissions dilemma. The RX-7 is definitely THE way to go for hybridization. If I had the means to deal with the emissions aspect, I would have walked away from my Z a long time ago. First Mike, then John, now you, Joey. Good on all of you...great car for the conversion! Wish I could have made the move, too. The RX7 platform yields a much better car for the same total investment, if not less. And I've haven't met any 'car guy' yet that didn't love the lines of that third gen. RX7. Are you going to hang on to the Z, as well?

Could you build a 'closet' outside your garage that is well insulated (for sound) and thereby house a 'real' compressor. The price seems very steep, probably because of the IR sticker; but, for less money you could get ALOT more compressor. Any oil lubricated unit will be relatively 'quiet'...I said relatively. Lowe's sells Kobalt units. Harbor Freight sells General. Home Depot sells Husky. Personally, I would go with Kobalt or General based soley upon the cfm specs..IF I had to have a new one. I bought two 60 gallon vertical units (independently) off http://www.craigslist.org Very good deals, one is an IR and one is a Sanborn (older commercial duty unit bought from a body shop). I detailed them both, some minor motor 'tuning' and I think that I am pretty much into them ($$) at less than the ONE that you have book marked...possibly a little over, but not much. Just some food for thought. Also, while you may not have big bodywork plans, nothing sucks more than an inadequate compressor. When it is running the entire time that you are out in the garage trying to catch up. I have learned that with TWO overpriced Craftsman units. CFM is critical in a good compressor. And if you are already anticipating that you will be in another house in the future, why not skip the reselling of this compressor to get one that has more balls later.

If given a choice...powdercoat; but, do what makes Life easiest on your end. Thanks.

It looks as great as your rear suspension set-up. Almost wish that I hadn't commited to the MM Adjustable set; but, I'm certain that Ross' design is quite good. Back to the brakes. I'm glad that we were able to get past the 'rough spots' and work this whole thing out. I am certain that the finished product will be WELL worth the wait. And, most importantly, you showed the integrity that is sorely lacking these days. I wouldn't hesitate to buy items from you in the future. I am extremely loyal to people and/or businesses that "walk the walk". My project has been significantly derailed after I was runover by a hit & run drunk driver (as a pedestrian). Still mending; but, anxious to get back on the 'horse' (my Z project). By the time that the pieces arrive back on 'my' coast, I will hopefully be in a better position to get the front set-up installed and closer to a 'roller'. Thanks again for your diligence....

Then the most economical and still effective set-up would be THICK wood covered with sheet metal. For legs, as mentioned by someone previously, you could use threaded pipe (3/4" or 1" ?), with threaded 'feet' on ground and at top under tabletop. For added reinforcement, gusset as needed and maybe weld some perimeter 'skirting' about 5" off floor all the way around the table legs (make into a shelf?). I would suggest doing the same 'skirting' just under the tabletop around the top perimeter of the legs, as well. My .02

I have countertops about two thirds of the perimeter of a three car garage. On one of the tops that I 'dedicated' to automotive/metal related work, I used 1 1/8" plywood and had a sheet metal shop cover it with 16 guage sheet metal. It has to be less expensive than solid 1/2" metal, it is very sturdy (easily holds several hundred pounds), and cleans up easily. If you needed more strength, you could make a stronger cabinet BASE. I just used Home Depot Mill's Pride stuff. The important thing that I was offering for consideration was the THICK plywood covered with sheet metal alternative. You didn't say the extent of the welding work that you plan on doing. If it is merely hobbyist level, I think that 1/2" steel is overkill.

I had always envisioned some sort of black material (naugahyde?) affixed on the bottom-side of the plate, and in the center of the shift 'channels' just make a slit. As the lever moves through the pattern, the slit opens in front and closes immediately behind. With the right kind of material it won't interfere with tight tolerances in the plate. You will still HAVE to have the lower rubber shift boot in place to keep noise and fumes out of the cabin. The gated 'plate' would need to be suspended up, at console-hole level. The always seem to be mounted 'above' the tunnel with some form of 'spacer', for that very reason I'm sure, in the high dollar supercars. I am a long way from that phase of my build; but, I have not given up on the idea. There is a British television show called "Fifth Gear" that I watch. They frequently drive some very exotic cars on the show, and invariably they will have that elusive shift gate. It is like standard fare for million dollar supercars (not that I am trying to pander my car as a supercar, I have just always been drawn to that interior trim detail). Keep the ideas flowing! I thought that this topic that I had started was dead...glad to see that others are pursuing it. As an afterthought...for 'bushings' what about those nylon cutting boards that are used in the kitchen. Very inexpensive. Similar to a Delrin type of material. And easily shaped to whatever sizes needed. Just cut blocks and shape down.

I frequent the P-n-Ps in the Bay Area, and I am certain that the pricing 'can' be very subjective based upon attitude (yours AND theirs). I have been charged several different prices for the exact same part on different days. I won't go to the Richmond yard...there was a shooting in front of it last time I went...don't need cheap parts that bad, plus it becomes too tedious trying to keep one eye locked on my tools! Rancho Cordova is pretty much the mecca. Then again, several years back the San Jose P-n-Ps had a pretty healthy inventory of early Z cars.

Yep. If you have Silver (basecoat), Blue Candy (depth/effect coat), and Clearcoat you are doing a three stage paint job.