heavy85

IME the OBX does not work at all out the box - like as in it was basically a spool since one of the gears was machined wrong. Looked liked all the gears were machined with a torch and one was too long. Actually bought the washer / bolt kit and the 'upgrade' bolts actually looked worse than the original ones so I did not change then. The washers need changed and it's a crap shoot the orientation. Need to deburr everything and actually tighten the bolts. This worked really well for several years road racing behind an LS1 but gave up last year. Haven't taken it apart yet to see what happened. Before used the Nissan clutch and it was ok but was pushy. Replaced OBX with OS Giken clutch and it's back to pushy again so have to work on set-up. Overall I like driving the gear type better but hopefully after tuning suspension to the pimp diff it will be better but way too early to say yet.

Yep looks familiar

There I one ball bearing - that's the one that's sometimes really hard to find. There is also two tapered roller bearings on the pinion shaft. Three total bearings. For me it was obvious as there were chunks missing from one of the roller bearings.

When my R200 started whining it was the tapered roller bearing on the pinion shaft. You can get all the bearings from Courtesy Nissan if you need to rebuild it. Not hard if you have a press.

To clarify - the 240 half shaft axle flanges seem to work fine with the Giken without machining themselves in they just won't seal well for reasons I can't figure out.

Was until it died then ponied up for OS Giken which is when the axle machined itself into the diff. But swapped axles at same time as the Giken went in so assumed it was the axle? Actually took the diff back appart to make sure it wasn't installed offset or something but it wasn't.

Some already know this but car is a 240Z with mostly stock LS1 that's a time trial / hill climb racer. Been racing it for 8+ years. I raced on slicks (road race kind not drag) for a couple years with stock axles and a 3.7 R200 with only issue being the half shafts bolts kept loosening up. No failures at all. But then thought would be good idea to convert to CV's. Rebuild some 280ZX(T ... don't remember) axles and in the end don't see any advantages. The new boots started tearing almost imediately which I kept scabbing on RTV, tire patches, anything I could think of to keep the grease in. They are a PITA to rebuild. And the outer bolts still loosen up just like the 240Z half shafts did only when the CV bolts loosen grease oozes out. Somewhere along the line bought a second spare set of ZX axles and eventually swapped those in. Then diff seals started leaking. Apparently there are two different diff seals, one with dust shield and one without. The CV's don't work with the dust shields and just tear them up. Then for some still unknown reason the passenger side started machining itself into the side of the diff. Looking closely and the splined area is slightly different than the first set but doesn't look like should cause the problem. Still not sure why. So after fighting issues with the 280ZX axles leaking and loosening and other weirdness for several years I said screw it and put back in the stock 240Z driveline and plan to keep rocking them. Also recently converted to 3.54 years which I have to believe the ratio impacts half shaft issues and lower should be better. On a side note also have run the same 240Z stub axles all these years too with only issue is cracked a wheel mounting flange going off track sideways at about 80 mph .... Now for the current fun with axles. Just put in new seals and almost imediately they started leaking. Took the axles back out and the seals are still in like new condition. The axles flanges seem to slide in enough to engage the seals. I've replaced these seals a couple times before over the years but am scratching my head why they are leaking unless maybe need to find some of those other seals with the dust shields built in?? Are there different seals between ZX axles and Z axles or something?

So are you saying that Z32 rear calipers will work with the MM 240SX rear brake setup? Like direct swap? The 240sx calipers are a pita to install and more importantly have limited brake pad options so am looking for other caliper options. Edit: Nevermind it looks like the Z32 calipers have even few pad options

Wait are you checking bump steer with weight on the tires and rubber bushings? If so I'm guessing that's you issue with measurements. Should measure with weight off the suspension to avoid any binding from the tires needing to scrub across the ground. If you don't have dial indicators then just clamp some angle iron or something to the rotors and measure with tape measures.

I have one in Decatur Il that I haven't tried to sell but would be willing to let go of. PM me an offer and what all you would want with it if interested.

Been racing for 8 years that way. No issues except you have to make sure that the rod ends have enough angle articulation so they don't bottom out. Also ends us with wheel clearance issues at least with 15" diamond wheels - ended up grinding the 5/8 bolt down for clearance and shaving the 1" "bump steer spacers" down to 3/4" to get JUST enough rim clearance. E-mail also sent. Feel free to post pic if you want.

Rear toe in helps stability under braking. Just drill out the stock knuckles and use 5/8 rod end and spacers - can get bump steer well under control with this. I found the same thing measuring where it starts toeing one way then you reach a ride height where it switches and then toes the other way.

Bump steer without the bumper IME. Assume it's there to keep the rack from rotating due to forces from the u-joint.

Just one rear. But the found that the bearing race one front strut was wallowed out so bad it cause vibration so change it too.

So ended up participating in the Grassroots Motorsports UTCC at VIR (13 hr drive). UTCC was a waste of time and money but stayed for the NASA TT over the weekend. VIR is an incredible track - very challenging. Hit 150 mph on the back straight but fought the car all weekend. A rear gland nut came out so the strut was just sliding in the upright. Wicked vibration in the front end. Then cracked a rear spindle so went home early. First DNF ever in nearly 10 years of racing this car but at least I noticed it and came in before bad things happened. Really disappointed to only manage 2:04 but with car issues and traffic never really figured out the track. Regardless VIR has to be a bucket list track for anyone. From this realized that Z parts are getting hard to find. Replacement spindles were not anywhere local and ended up spending more in shipping that the parts cost but now have in hand and half of them on the car. Been fighting a front wheel that was chronically loose and finally found the outer bearing surface was worn on the spindle itself. So upgraded to much beefier 280Z parts and installed one front and one rear new upright. The other corners will have to wait for winter project. This shot the meat of race season so missed a couple races. But thanks to encouragement of wifey just got back from another 13 hr drive to Pa for the Giants Despair hillclimb. It was really run and well worth the drive. Ended up first in class and 9 out of 108 overall. There were like Indy cars and stuff here so some REALLY FAST cars. I really enjoy hillclimb - by far my favorite type of racing. I'll have to come back and add the video - for some weird reason my computer wont currently paste?

Finally got around to digging it out if you are still looking. P30 on the block and E31 head. Pulled valve cover and looks clean. Borescope one cylinder and walls look good, could see crosshatch. Top of piston has some carbon buildup. Exhaust and intake ports both have some carbon buildup - looks like maybe was running rich.

So concernsus seems to be low cycle fatigue based on looking at the fracture face. I didn't hit anything and haven't had an off In a couple years. Used lots of curbs at VIR but the medieval gators are on the left side and this is right. Only thing I can figure is Friday the gland but backed out completely (fixed fFriday night) on this strut them the upright snapped middle of Saturday. Can't see how that would drive huge load into the upright but don't know what else. Also depends on how truly low the low cycle fatigue was? Bottom line is it was not a slow fatigue over the last 44 years but something much more recent.

So now finally found replacements. Also found one front spindle is shot. The bearing race is worn down to where the bearing is spinning on the shaft and flopping around. So going to just change all four corners including upgrading to the beefier 280 parts. Plan to install new bearings and have to section them. Has anyone found and tested weld on reinforcements to stiffen or strengthen the uprights? I remember Cary talking about testing deflections and it was a lot.

If there are no signs of leakage I would change the oil, pull a valve cover to see if there was sludge or signs the oil wasn't maintained and check the plugs. But I'm on the other end of the spectrum. IME of 8 years on track with mine these LS1 are keep oil and gas in it and forget about it.

Yeah but I'm not finding local so if you would ship I'm interested in a price. 62521 zip. I strapped a transmission to a pallet and shipped fedex freight and was doable - closest depot is Lincoln Il if that's an option.

Bump still looking and the racecar is down until find replacements

I have one in central Illinois 62521 in excellent condition. I race at Blackhawk near the border a couple times a year so could deliver there. I'm about 3.5 hrs south of Wi/Il border if you wanted to come pick it up. Cameron

Yes internally regulated. Run through filter to tee. One side goes back to regulator in the tank and the other side to the fuel rail. I don't think you would want to add a second regulator as it may become unstable as the regulators potentially fight each other. And if you want to go cheapest route then reuse all the Camaro bits - the fittings, the tee, the hard lines, the filter, etc.

Don't really know. It looks really clean from the outside. I got it in package deal and story was it was removed from a totaled Z like 25+ years ago by the guy who totaled it as a spare engine. Been sitting in my garage for 10 years and the guy I got it from for about 15 plus however many the guy before him which was the one who removed it. I can borescope or looks for casting marks if you are really interested.