heavy85

Yes FA. Yes all four tires appear similar but it's hard to tell exactly if there is a subtle difference. Yes I rotate tires front to rear each race. Specs: 51.7% front, 48.3% rear 2,574 lb incl driver 24 PSI -3 deg F, -2 deg R 1/8 out F, 3/16 in R 23x9.5x15 R25 compound Hoosiers 225F/250R big n little bars Outside ~ 110 deg, middle ~120 deg, inside ~130 deg, fronts ~ 5 deg hotter than rears. ~3/4" rake This was high speed autox so one hot lap and one hot lap back to the pits not an extended session.

... but I'm already seeing the insides 20 deg hotter than the outsides. I always thought the rule of thumb was 10 deg. More camber would work the inside just that much more and make them that much hotter than the outsides???

I've now run them in two high speed autox (full race track) and one parking lot style autocross. On the big track the insides were running about 20 deg hotter than the outside. Just looked at my tires and the outside edge - only about 1" worth if that - is wearing off FAST to the point one is barely starting to show chord. The rest of the tire has gobs of tread with little wear from new. Any obvious things here I'm missing that could be causing this extreme edge wear? I notice the radials have a very squared off edge compared to the the bias ply which are rounded from the get go. I never had this issue with the bias ply slicks. Running 24 lb of air in them. Thanks Cameron

w/out driver LF 611, RF 650, LR 546, RR 540 w/ ~220 lb driver LF 678, RF 653, LR 648, RR 595 '72 240Z. LS1/T56 about in the John's Car position fore/aft but ~3/4" offset to the right (custom mounts) - should have shoved it back more but too late now. Stock radiator. Plastic Camaro fuel tank. Kirkey aluminum driver seat. Aluminum driveshaft. R200. Gutted. 15x10 Diamonds w/ hoosier radail slicks. Full SFC. Misc chassis reinforcements. Full size battery on floor behind passenger seat. Dual 2.5" exhaust w/ 14" round Magnaflows. Stock brakes (for now). And a passenger seat. Edit: To be more precise it was 2347, passenger seat & belts are 35 lb so normal race weight is 2312 lb. In case you dont want to get out your calculators that's 51.7% front and 51.5% left & within 1/2% of 50% cross w/ driver. Cameron

Finally got a chance to scale it at a track day this weekend. 2347 w/ passenger seat which I dont normally run (late mode RX7 leather 35 lb). Maybe 5 gallon of gas give or take. Surprised it was a bit nose heavy but cross was right on. Also heavy to the left. I'm surprised it came in that heavy. PS: Still need brakes ... spun off the end of turn one again ... on a different track. Cameron

That looks hella stout both to aid in chassis stiffness and side impact protection. Cameron

haha ... while your at it why dont you go widebody so you can fit some 14" rims (wide) and the big rubber Oregon style. You know while your at it ... So what year is the maiden voyage planned for and what exactly is XP? We had a guy in a late model mustand with NO body panels run XP. His car is a work in progress so I'm not sure he was legal but its funny watching someone drive a sedan without doors. Cameron

Might be a vent to purge air pockets?? Cameron

Yes I think I'm close but have yet to scale my car. It sure is quick by my standards. Jon - you need to bite the bullet and get one for yourself. Thanks Cameron

I'm not buying it. If that is the theory then it's a waste of money IMHO. Anyone know the flowrate of an LS oil pump? Thanks Cameron

There was a thread a while back on same subject. Definitely two sides of the fence on this issue. Cameron

So why do people port and polish the oil pump on these things. Seems to be popular but I cant figure out why? Cameron

I have two round Magnaflows with full dual 2.5" pipes and crossover. It sounds freaking awesome. I am consistently getting comments how good it sounds.

No souls but Z's do have nice hips Cameron

Two thoughts. Soft trans mount and near solid front mounts may put a lot of stress on the front mounts as the rear moves around. Second is did you add a sleeve inside the poly front mounts? If not how are you going to keep the mounting bolts tight since you cant really torque the bolts down? Cameron

4-lug and I really haven't given a lot of thought to e-brake vs parking brake but that brings up an interesting thought. I guess I would like a parking brake that has the ability to be used to limp home if I need it. Not necessarily able to quickly stop from high speed but at least something that can be modulated (ie not on/off). Thanks Cameron

Since well my stock brakes suck it's finally time for an upgrade. They are completely rebuilt with hawk pads and good shoes and they just dont have the torque to stop like I want. This is my autocross, drag, roadrace toy that I drive to all events. I dont even own anything that could tow let alone a trailer. I've had to drive home before with only the e-brake before due to a leaking fitting plus I use it when parked so want to keep it. The brakes are by far and away the most lacking aspect of my car and real uninspiring ... especially compared to the LS1 . I figure it'll take at least a grand for very basic upgrade so why not spend the extra $5-600 for something better and I only want to do this once. I like things light and purpose built so am really leaning towards the wilwood or outlaw w/ two piece rotor front. BUT there are only two rear options I can find with an e-brake. First is the 240sx but that would not match very well the fronts since it's so small. Second is this mustang set-up but I dont know anything about other than a bunch of hype 'stop on a dime' drill slotted bling kind of stuff. I also dont want to have to use a dual master set-up. So any recommendations for a good rear match for the wilwood or outlaw fronts that can still use an e-brake? PS - anyone know how to get a hold of Mike aka scca that used to sell the outlaw kits as his site contact page is dead and he hasn't posted here in a couple years? Thanks Cameron

Dragging up an old thread but do the 300ZX calipers have e-brake function or did you just choose not to use it? Also, can you please fix the pictures (they show up as X) as I'm interested in seeing this? Thanks Cameron

Haven't been to Casper but driven from Denver to Gillette a couple times - closest to Casper was Douglas - but if it's like the eastern half be prepared for a whole lot of NOTHING. I mean you can see forever and there is nothing ... other than antelope. People seem just about like everywhere else. I didn't really see one extreme or another. Cameron

I had a shortened stock aluminum driveshaft behind the LS1 but it blew up (crappy weld) so now I need to buy a new one. Locally there is nothing but the shop that screwed up my original one. Internet shopping only comes up with a lot of hype so I'm looking for some experienced recommendations. After reading a bunch of posts on LS1tech.com I called PST but they didn't even know what a Camaro driveshaft was .... so I called The Driveshaft Shop and they knew everything off the top of their head and even recommended I get Ross's stub shaft which apparently a buddy of his makes. They specialize in imports but I also read a bad review on line. Tried Denny's Driveshaft but they cant adapt to the R200 rear?? Any recommendations? Thanks Cameron

Mike - what do you mean by 'direct bolt-on' and will these fit 15" rims? Thanks Cameron

Stock '02 LS1/T56, gutted 240Z, old crappy street tires. 12.55 @ 118 MPH on third trip down the quarter ever for driver or car. Cameron

Is this street or track? If it's relatively bumpy street then maybe softer springs. Some yahoo had 500 lb/in springs when I got mine. It was not compliant enough to run on the street as it tended to just skip over bumps and was hard to drive fast. What rear gear? LSD? Alignment? Ride height? After my V8 swap it was hard to keep on track because the rear stepped out badly during throttle application. I switched from 3.9 to 3.7 rear gear, tweaked the alignment, ADDED the rear bar back in, and got used the modulating throttle which all helped drastically. It's now very drivable. With high power engine the throttle is no longer an on/off switch. Sticky tires also help. Cameron

With all the welding that's been done on the yoke I wonder if I can just have it machined off and a new aluminum tube installed instead of a whole new shaft? I'm going to call PST and The Driveshaft Shop tomorrow for quotes on a shaft from someone who hopefully knows what they are doing. By the way whe factory weld on the other end of the tube is less than half as wide and is MIG. Cameron