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After reading your first post I thought to myself.....this boy needs to attend some writing/grammar classes! As suggested, if you don't like the instructor, take the class somewhere else....know one is making you stay. Quit complaining and pointing fingers, which resolves zero, and do something productive about your situation. Welcome to the real world.

Good point John! That certainly explains Boyd's current contension with Chip. One thing Chip didn't learn from Boyd was people skills....thank gawd for that!

Take a close look at those oil filters! Can you imagine the mess it would make when you remove the filters.....the oil would run all over the top of the engine valley. Oh well, maybe they just ran out of room for a remote filter location. I still think it would look better in a Z!

I'm assuming it translates to....I fry rice!!?

It would look alot better sitting in a Z car!

I'm not sure of the differences between the two models you are talking about but, consider the bore size on the MC. I believe you may want to use one with a 15/16" bore. With larger calipers you useually have larger diameter pistons that require more fluid to move them. A smaller bore MC will move them but you are likely going to bottom out your brake pedal before full engagement occurs. Just some food for thought!

I left my magnifying glass at home!

FYI, If anyone is concerned about using or not using spacers on the 10mm bolts (for the carriers with 12mm thru holes), give Precision Gear a call and talk to them. We discussed this issue once before. Precision Gear will tell you they are not necessary! The ring gear will not rotate if the ring gear bolts are properly torqued. Again, if you feel more comfortable installing spacers, be very certain they are not too long....and for sure use loc-tite on the ring gear bolts.

The only thing I see wrong with this picture, besides the incorrectly loaded clip, is that its an HK and not a SIG SAUER!

Can you say hungry snake? As one funny comic puts it, regarding over eaters....JUST PUT THE F'ING FORK DOWN!!!

Congrates and more power to you! By the way, what sort of work do you do? Will you have to kill me if you tell me? Just curious, I work for the DoD in research, design, developement, test and evaluation of physical security systems and components.

Negative....no exhaust fumes in my 1970 S30!

Just did a search on "torsional shear" and as I've been schooled, there is such a thing! There are a number of stresses that can cause shear....torsional shear being of of them! Check it out. I certainly respect your knowledge and experience and I'm sure we are talking about the same thing here but, in this case I think you are incorrect with your nomenclature. Just trying to pass along a little engineering knowledge.

The kid is probably doing well now! At least he got a good shot of adrinalin. Nice gesture by the owner of the ENZO!

Hey John, just a question on the bolt or stud shear. Isn't the load actually a torsional shear as opposed to a purely shear load? Additionally, I believe the advantage of a stud vs a bolt (talking about securing the head) is that you can physically measure the stretch on a stud, which is not posiible with a bolt in a blind hole.

Somehow I don't think they add 1000 lbs of tubing for a roll cage! But, I do agree with Jon as these guys do put these cages to regular use. Just watch some of the WRC events and you will also agree that these impressive cages are a must. Boy, do these guys know how to hang it out? And these new age drifters thought they started something new.....not!

Slownrusty, Regarding Confused....Kids will be kids!!!! I actually remember being one. Wait, I'm still a kid at heart....just a 54 year young kid. At 19 years old Confused seems to be relatively OK....at least he knows the right Z site to come to and thats a start! And at 19, wise cracks are the norm....I guess!!?

Let's see if this helps out a little. I just got off the phone with ARP, regarding the issue of SS vs CrMo exhaust stud/bolts. ARP uses a propietary 300 series SS for their studs and bolt as well as their head and rod studs/bolts. It has a 170,000 psi tensile strength and is impervious to extreme heat and corrosion. They also offer a 8740 CrMo version of the exhaust studs/bolts which has a +180,000 psi tensile strength. These have a black oxide finish and provide much less corrosion resistance. I ask their tech guy if they recommend any special thread prep, when installing exhaust studs or bolts......their recommendation is to first insure the threads you intend to install the studs or bolts into is cleaned well. They use a molly lube or 30wt. oils for installation and do not use a thread locking agent. So, I ask the guy which material is better for the exhaust studs od bolts? I'm told either material is good, but if you want corrosion resistance go with the SS. I also asked him about the thermal expansion characteristics between the two materials and he came back with....Well, we use the SS for head bolt/stud as well as rod bolts, which are much more tolerance critical (as far as thermal expansion) than exhaust studs or bolt. So, here it is staight from the horses mouth (ARP). Draw your own conclusions on which material you think is best for your application. Me, I've been using their SS exhaust studs for years without any issues...but that just me. Hope this helps a bit?

I don't think you understood my responce. I was not speaking of the system on the supera, but about the spool-up time difference between a single large turbo vs a single small turbo unit. In this case I believe I am correct and my responce is very true!! Anyone wish to add to this?

It has to do with spool-up time! The larger the turbo, the longer it takes to spool-up (more rotating mass). Also, maybe I'm just getting old and feable, but I only see two turbo units in the pic. Is the third one burried or nonexistsant? OK, I'm guessing the two visable units feed a third unit near the stock location.

Excellent read!

As mentioned previously by some of our fine members, a rental "cherry picker" will do the job nicely. One additional item will make it even easier! It is an adjustable positioning bar (not sure of the real name). It allows you to do fine adjustments...changing the CG of the eng/trans, thus the angle relative to the chassis. Basically, it allows you to tilt the eng/trans as you pull it out of the chassis.