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AZC certainly builds some nice looking stuff and the aluminum steering knuckle follows suit. Knowone mentioned $$$! I'm quessing here but, unless you need the bling factor or reduced weight saving of the AZC steering knuckles, I believe one can buy nissan steering knuckles the same length for probably 1/2 of AZC's price!

Man, I would think that by the time you completed that exercise, the time and materials it required would far out weigh the additional cost of a good set of dampers!

Just goes to show you, patriotic americans get pretty upset when the government keeps f***ing with our constitutional rights! So, keep your powder dry, keep your bores clean, and defend your constitution!

John, you alway surprise me with your responces....in a good way! So heres my attempt at describing it in general terms.....Based on what John has explained, known facts, the piston's kinetic energy does change as the piston increases and decreases velocity however, the piston by itself has mass, that by diffinition stays constant....so, x amount of energy is lost (friction and inertial forces turn it into heat) as its velocity is increased and decreased. The inertial forces.....a body in motion tends to stay in motion / a body at rest tends to stay at rest. Is this painting a clearer picture? I'm sure that some of the special coatings being applied to pistom skirts help to reduce the frictional loses. As far as the inertial forces go....they won't change unless the mass of the piston changes!

Let me see if I have this correct....you have a 350 cu in motor thats barely streetable with a 750 DP and you drive it on the street! If this is correct, its no wonder you have fouled plugs and its running rich. The set up you have is best run at or near WOT. Your dumping a load of fuel into the engine at lower RPMs, and the lower RPMs in not where this engine and carb is itended to be happy. Maybe with smaller jets and possibly delaying the opening on the secondaries, you could make it a bit more streetable at the expense of possibly loosing a little on top.

You should'nt have a coolant flow issue.... except you won't have a heater feed. The only thing I can tell you, and this may be a good thing, is with the sensor at the rear of the head as opposed to the stock forward location, the temperature is likely a bit higher at the rear of the head as opposed to the front of the head. So, gauge readings may be slightly higher than if the sensor was in the front of the head. If you have an electric fan and it is activated by the sensor you should see little if any difference in the gauge readings.

Heres something to consider! You mentioned you had your head skimmed (shaved, milled, etc.)! How much did they remove to flatten her back out? When you remove material from the head, it lowers the head and effects the overall timing by actually allowing the cam sprocket/cam to rotate x degrees CCW (when viewed from the front of the engine). Slimming up the cam towers will compensate for the loss of head material. Just some food for thought!

You likely have a worn out turn signal / light switch assembly. I had the same problem, checked everything, replaced the bulbs, etc., etc. If you are good at reading wiring diagrams, you will see that the switch assembly is part of the tail light circuit and after 20+ yrs of use, the contacts tend to wear out. A new switch assembly, if I remember correctly, is around $90.00........I purchased mine from Courtesy Nissan in Texas.

Looks as though it would work just fine. Not likely to fail. However, you may get some vibration transmitted to the chassis, since there is no insurance the through bolts will not be in contact with the diff and crossmember. Maybe some urethane sleeves on the through bolts to isolate them from the diff?

How hard is it on pistons....going from hot/cold that fast, that often? I would guess, just about the same as a regular 4 stroke. Cold fuel/air coming in and hot ignition/ exhaust, every four cycles! I would think since the six stroke engine runs at a much cooler overall temperature, the thermo shock would actually be less than in a 4 stroke. Hmmmmmmmm!!?

Man, thoughs should be worth an extra 20 H.P.! Someone obviously likes them but, for my personal taste....if you want disc brakes, install them.....if you have drum brakes, make then look nice...........do one or the other! However, pretty clever for a wheel spacer!

Another thought! Is your distributor working properly? I had an experience with a single magnetic pick-up 280Z distributor I transplanted in my Z. Had similar issues, as you described, and what it turned out to be was....the centrifigul advance was just worn out. I had even replaced the advance plate that usually goes south, the shaft bushing were good, and I thought heck, this thing should be good! Wrong, the advance mechanism was flat worn out. I finally bit the bullet and installed a Mallory Uni-Lite.....engine has been running perfectly ever since!

Well John, Is it likely they have come up with a new "TOY".....something that surpasses this beast? Or, are they just trying to make it look as though the project is dead...if you know what I mean....out-of-sight, out-of-mind!

From what I've seen and read, these electric water pumps are built well and do suck less HP. Also, being powered by electricity, one can actually control of the pumps speed if a potentiometer (varialble resistor) is installed in the circuit. Although they are much more expensive than a mechanical unit, they do provide advantages....and they have alot of HRC (High Rate of Coolness)! Just my 2 cent worth!

Food for thought......If your going the route of coil-overs, you may consider the addition of adjustable camber plates as you will most likely be changing your ride height and will want to be able to change the camber settings. The camber plates that require modifying the strut tower, to mount them, are certainly better (but a little more expensive) than the unit that have multiple fixed adjustment and require no strut tower mods to install. GC offers both types.

Great little trucks! I used to own a white 1994 2.4L 4x4 (with 5 spd) and for the 9 years I owned and drove it (on and off road) the only problem I encountered was one of the air conditioning hard lines failed......and thats it! Sold it with 130K miles on it, to a chap in town, and he takes good care of it...still looks great. The only mods I did were a set of BFG all terrain tires (one size larger than the stock tires) and I fabricated a stout brush gaurd that I could also use to jack the truck up with a Hi-Lift jack. Now I own a white 2003 Toyota PreRunner.....reason for the brand change, the availablity of after market parts is endless. Comparing the two trucks, both are super reliable, I do miss the four wheel drive on occation, the Toyota has much better interior and a much nicer ride (longer wheel base and better damped and sprung suspension), and a larger bed area. Anyway, the Nissan truck was a good experience.

The thing is most certainly a performer and from behind the wheel I'm sure it is a hoot to drive..........however, its surely not going to win any beauty prizes! So, in the looks department, I give it a score of 4 (out of 10).

Solution to problem........Alot of patients and a BMG!!!

It would be to your benifit to make the time to search the archives, here at HYBRIDZ. It will certainly reduce your learning curve, as well as, provide you with various ways of exicuting the task. Alot of guys here are very knowledgeable and experienced, doing mods to the Z car....there just isn't a better place to find the RIGHT information, than here!

Zguy36 is so correct in his statement...."You don't get energy for free". But, if you decide to purchase this item and use it, please remember not to smoke anywhere near it.....if you know what I mean!

Is it possible that its actually the rear wheels doing the skip and hop? If so, it could be a relatively tight, clutch type, LSD causing them to skip and hop in a slow tight turn! Just something to consider!

The good news is, you may be able to stuff an LS1 under the hood!!!

Interesting read, this post is! I, for one, look at these poorly written posts and just assume that the people who write them just have a very limited education! I tend to just pass these sort of posts over....no responce. What else is there to do, when you can't even decipher their code!!? Logic may imply that, if one is not capable of writing a comprehensive question, then likewise they are incapable of understanding a comprehensive answer!!! The old computer saying (GIGO) still holds true.....garbage in, garbage out.

Now thats the kind of news I love to see/hear!!!!