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Welcome aboard! Glad to see you have got a Z again and are in the process of squaring it away. That is pretty cool of you to post a thank to the Classic Zcar Club members on your website........i think its safe to speak on behalf of everyone who did help, thanks for the compliment and glad to assist a fellow Z nut.

I couldn't agree more Terry! What always baffles me is, some of the stories that surface about light flywheels not being very street friendly!!? I found it to be quite the opposite for me....much easier to drive! But then again, I'm running the close ratio 5 spd tranny and 4:10 diff with 24" OD rear tires behind an L28. Anyone considering a light weight flywheel may want to think about this........the amount of energy (HP) that it took to spin the additional weight of the old heavy flywheel verses a light aluminum flywheel is now going directly to the rear wheels. Basically, it frees up some horse power to the rear wheels and this is a good thing!

Personally, I've never seen any failures from using urethane bushings in the TC attach location but have read about a few who have. However, you never know what condition the attach area was before the urethane bushings were installed! Odds are that the old rust monster may have had something to do with it!? What i did when installing mine, and I was aware of the issue, is.......Instead of running the TC rod nuts all the way down as you would do with the rubber units, I ran the nuts down until I believed I had enough squish (very little) on the bushings to keep things in their proper place but not so much that there was little to no compliance. A good test is to install the TC rod and urethane bushings to the chassis attach point, without the other end of the TC rod attached to the LCA, and physically move the TC rod up and down to check how much compliance is present at what ever distance the nut is tightened to. This trial and error method worked for me and I have had no ill effect from following this procedure. Just a thought!

The lighter flywheel will reduce rotating mass.....and that equates to quicker RPM changes when putting your foot in it or lifting. Regarding early mornings....you may find that you need to give her a bit more gas to avoid stalling.

You wouldn't be opening a can of worms but, you will certainly get some engine vibration transmitted that you will hear and feel. Also, if you do rigidly mount the front of the engine, don't forget to rigidly mount the tranny as well. If you don't, you will be asking for eventual failure of the front mounts.

If you want a performance, as in cornering and braking, go urethane. If you can live with the softre rubber, get OEM rubber. Either takes about the same amount of time to install. Its all personnal preference anyway.....isn't it? I prefer the urethane bushings because they provide you with better responce in the steering, better straight line control under braking hard, and not likely to ever wear out! One of the only locations on early Zs that has been an issue for some, is the TC rod attachment to the chassis. I currently have over five years of driving on my urethane bushings and have had no issues anywhere.....but hey, I'm just one guy with an opinion.

Don't panic yet!!! Does the engine still crank over without any unusal noises?Do a compression and leak-down test. It could be a simple as some really bad valve stem seals. If you are not very familiar with engines, either do alot of reading or find someone you can trust, that knows what they're doing, take a look at it. Keep us posted.

IMO, the Z would look way better by just lowering it about 3/4" to 1". This would certainly resolve the issue of the tires/wheels looking too small for the wheel wells! Just my opinion. Overall it looks great, even though your rims aren't a style I would use. Now install a set of the 3 pc. Panasports with the correct amount of dish and you'll be getting rave reviews and chicks dying to meet you! Again, just my opinion.

I'll second that motion! Odds are we'll all be dirt napping when the time comes....lucky for us! Maybe some day, scientists will also discover that all the environmental changes taking place are nothing more than a regular process that occurs in a planets life cycle and not souly caused by humans!!! I believe scientist tend to get too focused on one (popular) train of thought. Let's all remember, at one time they believed the earth was flat!

Just a word of caution! Since the struts are major suspension components, having a muffler shop weld them up is risky IMO! Yes there are guys at muffler shops that are more than qualified to do this sort of welding but, how about all the ones who aren't? Questions you may want to consider.....will the section be square after welding, was the correct rod used to weld them, are there any pin holes that will allow oil to leak out if you use oil between the struts tubes and dampers, is there too much penetration...causing you to grind off the excess material from the inside of the strut tube so the damper fits in and doesn't bear against the weld. Anyway, just some food for thought!

Even the best designed parts will be a real pain in the a_ _ to work with when they have 30 years worth of corrosion on them! As Jmortensen mentions, besure to use anti-sieze liberally when reassembling. If it makes you feel any better I and likely many others here have spoken to god many time during the removal of the rear spindles.

These combo machines do have there limitations but, a skilled person can do some pretty nice things with it....albeit, it will be limited in size and the time it takes to fab a part will take longer, due to the limited power and ridgitity of the machine. I too, do prototyping at work and have some pretty nice machines to work with....after hours of course! One suggestion before you start turning parts.....adjust and lube the gibs and ways and adjust out any play you can on the machine.....it will make it a bit nicer to operate!

My quess is that underneath that yellow paint job lies a surprise package of our old friend....the rust monster! Take a look at the left side front fender toward the front at the seam between the hood amd fender....hmmmmmm, what is that lurcking there?

I suppose you could but, you would have to fabricate bezel ring to make up the difference. (2.625" [66.68mm] minus 2.362" [60mm] divided by 2 equals 0.132" [3.35mm]) 0.132" would be the cross-section of the bezel. Gotta lathe?

Did you remember to remove the tappered lock pin before you tried to pull the pin?

Hey guys, sounds to me like its time for a refesher course or review of Pascal's Law and Bernoulli's Principle! Not that I think you guys don't know what you're talking about but, sometimes a little refresher on these laws and principles do help to explain them to someone unfamiliar with hydraulics!

Hey, you could have your significant other put the gauge to the test! The results would give you a good idea of how well they can...........you know!

Just a thought! Based on what you have explained, I think you would be better off finding a reputable Nissan mechanic and let him get it running for you....unless you want to go though the learning curve! If so, plan on doing a lot of reading as well as some tool purchases.

Damn, I'm heading to Wal-Mart right now!!! Instead of my regular wallet, I'll have one with only a note in it......"Thank you for such wonderful customer service! And by the way, no charge for the shot of protien".

Well, they appear to be just like any other coil over set with the exception of using two springs per corner. Typically, a two spring set-up is used so two different rates are combined.....lower rate for the small bumps (street driving and comfort) and when the lower rate spring binds the higher rate takes over for the bigger loads. Seems to me however, that one would be better off with a single spring with the rate you need for your driving style. Also, they appear to install just like all the other coil over sets. This design is nothing new.

Well, you're doing your math correctly anyway! FYI I have 17 x 8's (f) and 17 x 9's ® on my 240Z, with coilovers. Both my front and rear wheels have -35mm offset. On the front I fabricated spacer that are roughly (don't have my notes with me) 7/8" (22.2mm)to 15/16" (23.8mm) wide and for the reat the spacers are roughly 1 1/8" (28.6mm) wide. With this setup I have zero rubbing issues. My tires are 215-40 (f) & 235-40 ®. The rear wheel spacers have positioned the wheel in the wheel well with roughly 1/8" clearance between the strut tube and the inside of the wheel. The outside of the rear wheel sits just about flush with the rear fender lip....close for sure! I sure if I went any bigger than the 235-40's in the rear, I would have a rubbing issue at the fender lip. If you want to be certain about your fit, make up a cardboard profile of the wheel and put it in place with the suspension loaded. This should give you a pretty darn good idea of how they fit.

George, have you tried the SEARCH function? I think you will find your answers with a little SEARCHING.