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From the photos and explanations provide by the seller, it appears he is trying to off a poorly thought out and executed brake conversion. Don't waste your $$$. The M/C brace should give you some insight into the sellers mindset!!! It appears that the caliper mounting bracket demensions are a bit fat and have positioned the caliper/pads too far out....hence the untouch portion of pad material.

I believe they are all the same, from early 240Z through the 280Zs. As a matter of fact, the right and left hand units are identical.....one part was manufactured and used for both the right and left hand rear LCA.

Is this a new unit or used? If it is a new unit, it is likely that the scratches you see are nothing more than machining marks. If it is a used unit, it may be that the scratches are small surface cracks created from heat (hard use or abuse). Usually, there will be discoloration along with the tiny surface cracks.

Yeah, that's what we need here...some dirty mouthed tension bisket posting his frustrations! Yeah right! I alway wonder if these people eat with the same mouth. However, I did get a laugh out his Car-domain post.

I supose if you take the time to properly mask/block off all the appropriate area you don't want the powder coat to get on or in, then why not do it, as long as it blows your skirt up...so to speak!

traub83, As others have mentioned, coilovers will benfit you with corner height adjustment/loading, additional inside clearance for wider tire/wheels, provides an easier process for changing out springs (no spring compressor required), and they look cool as hell. Also as mentioned, if dropping your Z 1 1/2" to 2", it is advisible to also shorten the strut housing tube in order to maintain proper damper travel in bump and rebound. If you don't, you will wind up with very little bump travel and a ton of rebound travel. Do you need coilover for a street car??? No! Do you want the ability to set your ride height so your wider tire/wheel setup looks correct in the wheel well??? Them yes, install coilovers. My 240Z is a street car, setup for enjoying the tight twisty roads in my area, and I have coilovers on all corners, shortened struts, quick steering knuckles, adjustable camber plates all around, urethane bushing thoughout, 10" 200 lb front springs, 8" 275 lb rear springs, Tokico non-adjustable dampers, 17" x 8" (f), 17" x 9" ® three peice wheels, etc., etc. Anyway, I love the way the car works....just as I had hoped! I do however have isses to deal with when driving.....I avoid all speed bumps and obsticles of that nature and some might think my setup is a bit to tight for a cushy ride. Well, generally speaking you're not going to get that great cornering ability from a car with soft suspension and skinny tires. It all comes down to what you intend to use your car for. So, keep doing your homework. When you feel comfortable with what you learn about setting up a Z suspension and them proceed.

Yah Jon, I do believe we are, maybe with different terminology, saying relatively the same thing. Anyway, in Cary's case, the crossmember is failing due to an applied stress that is beyond the limits of the crossmembers design. That thin sheet metal crossmember was just never designed to handle the load a solid front diff mount will impart on it......the thin sheet metal just work hardened and began to fail, as is apparent from the stress cracks. Boy, sometimes providing detailed information from your brain to the keyboard is not always as easy as one might think! But then again, I'm not a university grade professor nor am I willing to spend the time it would take to explain it that finitely. Oh well Cary...just build a beefy crossmember that will last longer. Then, you will likely find the next weakest link in the system as it rears it's ugly head and fails too!!!

Just to clearify my point....I did not say there is less force on the eng/trans/driveshaft.....what I implied was, the force is actually greater at the eng/trans/driveshaft because you no longer have the soft mounts at the diff to absorb some of that energy. That energy has to be going somewhere and it's no longer getting absorbed by the soft diff mounts. Consiquently, that force (torque) is how being placed back on the eng/trans/drieshaft. Remember, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction!

All very interesting replies! I believe anytime you alter a part, of a system, that was originally designed to function one way and then you drasticly change it without altering the complete system, you are asking for early failures....it's just common engineering knowledge. Regarding jmortensen's reply about having a diff ridgidly mounted and the eng/trans soft mounted....the only thing that changes is that the energy the old soft mounted diff used to absorb is now focused else were, because the new soild mount does not absorb the same given energy. So, a soft mounted eng/trans and soild diff still torques, as it always did, but now the eng/trans/driveshft will see a more intensity force (no soft mount to absorb it).

Certainly is nice when your woman is willing to accept your love for cars and shows you how much she really loves you by giving you a gift created with her talent......but good lord, you two have extremely LARGE heads!!!!

Wow! From what I can see from the pic, you ceratinly have the old school wood working skills......very nice! Used to play music myself, although I play a drum kit.

Well Doug, The foam and covers are available form the likes of MSA or Victoria British and likely others as well. Have you tried using the SEARCH function? You will be amazed at the amount of info compiled on just about any subject, regarding Z's. If you can't find your answer here, you may want to try a visit to Classic Zcar Club's site.

Ah, quit dorking around and buy her one of the new Jeeps with the Hemi.......

So John...are indicating that the binding issue is at full extension (not compression) of the drivers side half shaft, on a 3" or lower Z?

You might be a bit more specific......like, what engine you are talking about, is it in tune or when was the last time you did a complete tune out?, ect., ect.!!!

The second picture down looks like a cast iron mustache bar. Are you sure you looked in the water passages really well....there may be an R200 in there somewhere!

Ricardo, yes you can use the 81 280ZX distributor in your 240. It can be hooked up using a GM HEI module or any of the aftermarket modules that are similar. Just make sure the ZX distributor's centrifical advance is not worn out.....I have one of those that I replaced all parts in, except the advance mechanism. There have been lengthy discussions about this subject in the past so, dive into the search function. Also check on Classic Zcar Club for the same. Haven't seen you in a while! Tom

The only problem I see with these adjustable TC arms is that the LCA attachment does not allow the TC arm to move when caster adjustments are made! Not good! Instead of a fixed attachment, it should have a clevis type attachment to allow for the needed movement. If you do not intend to adjust caster, then you don't need adjustable TC arms.

Hello!!! I just ran across this post. Yes, you need to shorten the left side 280ZX half shaft by 0.500". What I did was to disassemble the half shaft (DON"T LOOSE ANY PARTS, Cause they are no longer available). cleaned it up and sent the male splined end off to my machist and had him replicate the existing end of the shaft, only 0.500" shorter. My machinist said it took him less than 1/2 hour to complete the mod. When I got it back, I cleaned it, reassembled it, lubed it, and installed the boot. Has been working perfectly with no binding or over extension issues. The only issue you may run into is reusing the band clamp that retains the boot. However, these type clamps can be purchased and require a special tool to tention/clamp them. Hope this helps you guys.

Welcome to HYBRIDZ! One of the first things you might want to utilize, when looking for answers, is the "SEARCH" function. There are alot of questions that get asked repeatedly and have been answered many times in past posts. You will discover a wealth of info in the old posts! Give it a try. Back to your question.....polyurethane bushings are certainly better than the stock rubber units. One misconception is that they yield a harsh ride. I for one don't believe this is an absolute truth. They do minimize unwanted suspension movement, providing more consistant suspension geometry, and they won't degrade like a rubber bushing will over time. I think that super low profile tires, stiffer springs, and shocks with higher damping rates give you the harsh ride! If you choose to go with the poly bushings, be sure to use the lube that is usually provided for the bushings....otherwise you may wind up with a squeek monster. Have fun with the install and remember to use the search function.

A method that is used for removing solder is as follows......Use a length of fine wired multi-strand copper cable (like an old welding cable) as a wicking media. Use a gas torch to heat up the lead. Once it starts to soften up, place the cable on the lead and continue to heat. When the copper cable gets hot enough, it will wick the lead off the pillar. Note before doing this exercise, flatten out the cable so it is relatively flat and wide....like a brush. Also, it may be necessary to use a little soldering flux on the copper cable to help draw the lead away from the pillar. Anyway Jon, its a works quite well for solder removel. On the other hand, this idea might be all wet for plain old lead!

Any hyraulics store should have what you're looking for. An aircraft supply store would have hardware thats a bit nicer than industrial or automotive stuff.

Interesting concept! However, I don't think I'd get too excited until you start seeing these tweels show up on circuit cars! Might make a decent off-road tire.

I know this comment provides no help, but just the fact that... "If you play you pay!!!" Just slow that think down or take it to the track!