SSflyer

There's still a few videos out on YouTube under kingpinracing too....

Came across some pics of my old Z and realized I haven't been on this site for a few years. Sure do miss working on the car and all my e-buddies here who helped me solve build problems. And I really miss driving the Z. It had a 400+hp LS1 and cornered like it was on rails. What ever possessed me to sell it???

Here's mine....

A suggestion......before you weld up the spare tire hole and mount the gas tank, cut youself an access panel in the new sheetmetal so you can remove/replace in in-tank fuel pump. Dropping the tank later to do any work on the pump is a giant pain. Ask me how I know.

If you're on a limited budget you really should re-evaluate your plans. My LS1 conversion was also over $30k. Alot of that was fluff, like stainless hardware, but with a 35+ year old car you're gonna find lots of stuff that needs rebuilding or replacing, especially if you intend to power it with over 300hp. Not to be self serving, but have you considered buying a 'completed' one (like mine) that can be had for a lesser expense?

The flares were from MSA. Unfortunately they're no longer shown in thier catalog.

Here's a couple of my 75 280/LS1...

Mine aren't ZG flares, they're from MSA. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7BSA02/50-1565

To see what fiberglass flares look like moulded onto a Z, go to my vids on YouTube under Kingpinracing.

I'm one of those crazy Camaro guys who claim 30+mpg on the freeway. My 99 SS with LS6 heads & cam got over 35mpg one time between Phoenix and Yuma. An elevation drop from 1800ft to sea level over 135 miles going about 60 miles an hour. My Z with a 2002 LS1 with a HotCam and longtubes gets 15-17 in town and 26 on the freeway. I had hoped for over 30, but 26 ain't bad.

The other option would be to lower the car. How about sectioning the struts and going with coilovers?

Check out the Grainger and McMaster catalogs. Lots of solutions there...

Wow, no responses?! OK I'll be first.... LS2, LS1, AZLOC (Arizona Lightning Owners Club), BMC (Black Mustang Club), and about 10 other Mustang boards.

Geez, I must be getting old. After reading about 10 pages, all I could think is that those texters are Americas' future and now I'm really worried....

How about flattened Pepsi cans pop riveted over rust holes in the floors?

Wire a kill switch into the clutch/neutral safety switch circuit. In my last car I used a disconnected cigarette lighter as the kill switch. Pull out the lighter and the car won't start. If they tow it or trailer it away, a locking hood gets you nothing anyway, but at least it can't be driven away.

The 280 bodies are more robust than the 240s and will handle the V8 a little better. The rest of the choice depends on what look you want. The 240 has a way better looking bumper set-up than the hideous energy absorbing bumpers on the 280. Look also at the differences in the dash and console. You may like one more than the other. For performance, I'd go 280, but for a drop in engine and driving like a normal person, go 240.

While you're in Tucson, go to the Pima Air museum, AND take the tour bus over to the airplane graveyard. Well worth the time!

Yup, I saw that episode. They were making some big horsepower numbers after the conversion. LSx engines are indeed a modern marvel!

With that low compression ratio, that motor might be a good candidate for boost....

When the cam was installed it was the first mod on a stock LS1 motor with a 6-spd trans. Later I added a set of longtubes. I had it dyno tuned ($500) and later had them recheck it. The plan was to do heads later but that still hasn't happened.

I used a GM HotCam in mine. Little bit of a lope, and picked up about 35rwhp.

Go with the plastic Camaro tank. The mounting brackets take only about 5 minutes to fabricate, you get to keep the tank centered, you can modify the Camaro filler neck to fit the Z gas door opening, you get to keep the smog control stuff and the wiring to the computer. I believe these's also a built in baffle in the bottom of the tank. When it's done it looks like a factory installation. The only down side is the oddball fittings that GM chose to use. At the same time (ever heard THAT before?!) you can bend some new fuel lines and have a nice clean fuel system. While the tank is out you can also weld in a nice heavy crash bar between the rear panel and the tank.

Miles, The LT1 sending unit requires a specific ohmage gauge to work. Check the Autometer website to see what they recommend. If the gauge you have has any factory markings, send them an email and they can tell you if your gauge is the correct one. They are really good about responding. I suspect you may need a different gauge... Dan