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HybridZ

Synlubes

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Everything posted by Synlubes

  1. Yeap, A Stahl is a real header!
  2. Sorry,(edit) NGK for the Nissan/Datsun. IMO I`ve never replaced a "bad" NGK plug in over 22 years of use.
  3. NGK Would need info on your setup to recommend a particular NGK plug.
  4. So does the 240SX have Hybrid written on it , or is it a daily driver?
  5. Very nice looking part! Please update us after the install and some hours of use.
  6. Synlubes

    My new L6

    Hey Mike, Any luck with getting the video hosted / posted?
  7. Look at it like this, premium gear lubes like Amsoil / Redline are not thick like regular gear lubes! They are very slick and are quite fluid. They are "designed" to flow at "low" temps and don`t thicken at "high" temps.(as long as they stay wihin their operating ranges)(which are, quite low to quite high)
  8. Tim, As far as "cleaning" the trans out, just fill will what ever oil your going to use and then drain it after 100 miles and refill.
  9. Let me go wipe the dribble from my mouth! Sure is tight in there! Thanks Alan, Rick
  10. Not the rear stub axles, they are different. I think Modern-Motorsports makes a flange for this change over. Ck out the Drivetrain Forum here, you`ll probly see posts on this swap.
  11. I think Motorsports headers are good for the money. They have the all important thick flange needed so they don`t warp. They seem to last a good few years. Now, for the real money(approx $400.00)you get a header with equal length tubes, choices of tube diameter. What may be refered to as a "race header". There is a bit better quaility in them as well (IMO). I would have to say that these features make a difference, but I don`t have proof on paper.
  12. Head info Go to the P-90 page. More head info
  13. OK, I looked in one of my manuals Flywheel bolts - 100ft-lb Pressure plate bolts - 17.4-18.8 ft-lb Special Note this was out of a 72 service manual, turbo stuff may be higher!
  14. It`s what`s called "german torque" GOOD N TIGHT Ya get it? No really, I don`t know a torque value, I always use an impact gun with RED loctite on the flywheel bolts. I use RED loctite on the pressure plate bolts, and tighten them up TIGHT by feel.(I was a mechanic for 15 years)
  15. You can just use a seal puller to get the rear engine seal out. It comes right out the back, no need to do anything with the pan. I`m going to say 75W-90 gear lube (synthetic of course)
  16. Tim, Maybe the flywheel was not surfaced? Maybe cheesy clutch parts? Have the flywheel surfaced when you go back together with it. Also do a good clutch hydro system flush. While it`s out would be a good time to replace the rear engine seal, the frt & rear trans seal & the frt trans gasket. Might as well change the trany fluid also!
  17. Wish I had money & time like that to waste.
  18. Synlubes

    My new L6

    And Mike said in his post, I love it !
  19. I would say, take it easy for about 1st 100 miles or so. Then find out if it`s going to stay together! Also, change fliud after 100 miles(when fliud is hot)
  20. I worked with a company who developed these Ultralite Helicopters I made the main and tail rotors for these. They are sold in kit form, you build it / you fly it! They are pretty cool, if you like choppers.
  21. Glad to hear some people know what it means to be "in business". I think that this G nose with the added frt spoiler looks nice and I have followed your trails. I would maybe like to see one like this on my Z. So please keep us up to date. Thanks for being the "front man"!
  22. As Sparky said, Send the boys in! No really, maybe someone in his area would be able to do some cking for ya.
  23. I`ll have to go with Mudge, Put the springs that have the thickest coil dia in the rear.
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