jimszx

The clutch is not like your brake system in that your pedal doesn't get firm. When it appears that you are only getting fluid while bleeding, check to see that the rod between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork is actuating and you should be done.

I got mine from summit racing, made by scat for under $50

The rear box contains your Fuseble links, I left them in on my 79zx they are just like oversized fuses. The front box contains relays for different systems. The choice is yours depending on the systems you are keeping. Jim

Usually you will go richer but each engine intake combination is different and you might have to go leaner but I doubt it. Just follow the vaccume gauge and you can't miss. Good luck, Jim

1. Hook a vaccume gauge to a good vaccume sorce 2. Warm up engine to operating temperature and turn off. 3. Set all idle mixture screws on both carburetors, turn clockwise until seated then turn counter clockwise 2 1/2 turns. 4. Start engine, turn all 4 screws 1/8 turn counterclockwise and check vaccume gauge, reading should increase. 5. Repeat screw adjustment sequence until the vaccume drops. Turn all 4 screws 1/8 turn clockwise 6. Adjust idle speed to desired RPM Done.

In the words of Wayne and Garth, We're not worthy!, We're not worthy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very impressive

I couldn't eve use block huggers on my zx, but I kept the power steering. With rack and pinion you may be OK.

Thank you all for your knowledge and support. After defeating the usual gremlins that pop up on this kind of project, the Bride of Frankenstien has taken her first breath. I have a few small leaks to fix, set the timing and break in the cam then I should be ready for a test drive. Thanks again to everyone who shared.

Mine fit like a glove but I used the JTR radiator mounts also and mounted the shroud directly to the vertical straps on the mount. You don't want to attach the fan directly to the radiator.

Check Dave's site, he worked through some major problems http://home.earthlink.net/~dvgreimann/techinfo.html

It will always take longer than you planned, just be patient and flexible, and have reliable back up transportation. Conversion still in progress.

Quote: Originally Posted by Mike Thanks jimszx. Can you point me to some tech info on how to adjust the TC Cable? This may help: http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php __________________ Mike Kz beat me to it.

The key to reliable 700R4 is correct TV cable adjustment. As this simple part controls fluid pressure to hold the bands tight. When not properly adjusted the pressure will be too low allowing the bands to slip causing your new transmission to experience thermal meltdown. A 700R4 with quality internals and a correct cable adjustment will give you years of service.

You could just use the original brake pedal, then you have an open space to rest your left foot.

Enjoy, now the fun begins.

Where are you in texas? my son wants a 300zx

Congratulations, that has got to feel good! I hope to have my 79 on the road in a few weeks.

Hello everyone, I know the JTR manual says to remove the rear sway bar for better handling, after several searches I have found very little info. I am converting a 79 280zx, anyone with zx conversion experience help please, is this nessecary? Thanks

Has anyome out there made this kind of switch and if so what did you have to do to the computer?

A good friend of mine has a 2003 Chevy 1/2 ton 4X4 pickup with a 5.3 vortec engine and an automatic transmission. He wants to replace the 5.3 with a 5.7 vortec and transfer all the manifolds and electronics but he's not computer savey and neither am I. My question is, will the sensors and computer pick up on the increased air volume and increase the fuel as needed or does the computer need to be reprogramed for everything to work correctly?

Is it a Lycoming or Continental flat six.