Gollum

1st. I still think $300 is optimistic for a motor, just because of what I've seen lately on craigs, but the last one I got was $200, so we'll leave it there. I COULD go MS1, it seems like penny pinching where you shouldn't really. Maybe I don't NEED the resolution for a low buck DD vehicle. So say $210 for MS1 Kit, since I'd assemble my own board. I really don't like the stock dizzy, but I'm picky. I'd go for the extra cost of a crank trigger and sensor. So call that $50 total. I could probably avoid wideband costs all together since I'll have a wideband for my '75 and do I really NEED a wideband all the time? No. Just to tune really. Closed loop wideband is a neat idea, but really not necessary. So call that part of the budget $30 for a bung (if they're even that much) Wiring harness, yes I COULD use spare wiring I have, since I've gutted TWO S130 chassis harnesses and so I have lots of spare wire. But the pre-fab one from DIYautotune is worth it imo. It's one of those things that saves you so much time and headache it's just worth it. Injectors: Hopefully the engine comes with them, and yes I CAN find them cheaper, but if I was gonna push things as lean as they're go safely for MPG sake then I'd want flow tested injectors, which aren't cheap in most cases. Stockers would be "fine" though. So let's call them "free" for the sake of argument. Your sensor numbers are correct. But you really should replace the TPS with a REAL TPSensor, not a TPSwitch. Most people also do this with the conversion to a S13 throttle body which makes it all pretty "plug and play". I still prefer tunerstudio over megatune, but that's licensed per computer, so odds are I can use one license for both my cars. Realistically, MS1 can be done in this case for under $700. But I'd have to find a longblock at a decent price, which is getting harder and harder to do. What the most "logical" route to go would be to just rebuild my stock motor, do MS on my '75, then do MS on my DD. Then the costs would all be spread out and easier to swallow. In the end I bet I'd still have $1k+ invested all told, and I'd still have an L motor, which I'm not sure I'm thrilled about for a DD. Randy: I've thought about that but it's too soon to get them at a decent price. I'd be better off finding a wreaked 350Z with the VQ, which puts out 280+hp and has a 6 speed. Overall similar design, but even the VQ I don't think I could touch for under $2k minimum, and even that is dreaming I think. XNKE: The thing I think you need to remember is that since fabrication is pretty much free for me, swap cost can literally be even, or even less than the cost of a donor once you figure selling parts I don't need and scrapping the rest. I even have enough scrap stainless to make mounts from stainless if I wanted to... So really it comes down to what I can find for what price. I started this thread because I've seen some 01+ ford rangers under 2k that would work just fine as donors... Hence why this thread was centered around that engine, which I think would make a great all around daily driver engine for my needs. Yes I CAN get 30+mpg from the L motor, and that's probably the most practical route. Part of me just doesn't want to do it though, even though I have no intentions of going away from the L motor in my S30 for a long time to come. Can't really explain why.

I'm all about improving what you can and it looks like you're well on your way and certainly capable. But I've seen some insanely fast cars run for a long time on the r200 just fine, making a LOT more power and torque than your LS1 is. I'm not trying to hurt your pride, or tell you not to change diffs, because I think you're doing the right thing for your application, but have you considered other factors as to why the input shaft failed? What's your axle angle at ride height? Have you measured launch sag? Could it have been related to impropper axle length fittment? These are all things that I've seen people overlook so I just want to make sure you don't run into this issue again after hours of frabrication and all new diff/axle parts.

Thanks for the info! Regarding OHV V6, the ford 3.8 is certainly on my radar, and I just saw a 99+ V6 mustang in someone's driveway today that had some serious front end damage (hood was folded pretty good), considering going back and offering like $500 and seeing what they say. Main reason I'd look at the ford V6 option over the GM is 1. I know the ford parts bin better, and 2. I like the transmission options better. The Ford V6 is an identical bellhousing pattern as the V8, and that's not the case with the GM motors (as far as I've seen/know). Price-wise, performance and such is pretty close between the two. Stock 99+ mustang motor should make almost 200 flyHP stock, and the stock mustang should get about 28mph highway. In a Z it should be able to reach 30 just fine, especially with a tune and some light mods. And being a Ford ECU all I need to do is find a friend with the right tuner and rent their gear for a day.

If it was on John's website it should be accurate, but verification as to what exactly was included would be nice. Did he mean hood, or hood + hinges and springs? As far as early versus late bumpers I wouldn't count on them being identical in weight. There's a very good chance they were changed as the 5mph bumper law was changing constantly at the time, and manufactures were finding new ways to meet the ever-changing standards.

No, you are not crazy and the S130 is a great (and under-appreciated vehicle). Given that you have fabrication skills or access to them, I would start cruising wrecking lots with a tape measure and an open mind. If you live and drive in California, think about smog and think like a smog referee. Generally speaking, all swaps using a truck engine are illegal. Not entirely true. If it's a light duty pickup, under I believe it's 5500 gross vehicle weight, then it's in the same smog class and can be swapped into cars. It might be 5,000 lbs, but I know I'm right on the idea as it's been common talk between me and referees. Your iron block 5.3 may be running all Ls1 accessories, smog equipment, gas tank and passing a tail pipe test with colors, but, if that magnet sticks to the block you're probably out of luck and a lot of money. I've never met a ref that would actually go into detail to verify what material the block was supposed to be from OEM. They simply don't go that far. I've watched ref's do BAR labels multiple times... So here's my take, for what it is worth. Define your goals. Is gas mileage really on the top of your list or is a cheap swap more important? Balance of both is what I'm looking for. If I had to spend a little more but get 40mpg that would have my attention, but 30mpg from a nearly free donor would also get my attention. Here's my take. If smogability is not an issue, I'd hit the Sacramento/Carson City Nevada wrecking lots for GENIII 4.8 Vortech and six speed manual. Easy swap, dirt cheap engine.... really dirt cheap, along with a set of 3:54 r&P Keep the truck cam. If one can believe the Corvette sites who claim 28mph @80 with an LS1, then your S130 should do at least that well. If you have wiring expertise, this is a swap that can be done for $2K or so [with an automatic]. I've thought about this, and if I can get over the bowtie factor, it's a swap on the table. If smogability is an issue, then shop for new 60 degree V6s, such as Ford's new 3.8 out of a Mustang with either AT or 6MT or V6 out of any of the rear wheel drive SUVs. Take a close look at the v6 out of mid 2005+ Hyundai or Kia sedans. These engines do not sell at a premium and there is usually one or two in any large lot. If you find a late donor you could also be tied into an 8 speed automatic. You would be in terra incognito as far as wiring these newer engine/transmission combination. I haven't seen many of the newer OHC 60 degree V6's for super cheap, but I also haven't been looking to hard yet. I think it's because to me if I was going OHC I'd go with the dirt cheap VG or the pricer VQ. I'll look more into these motors though. Finally, if the early Mazda/Ranger V6-4cylinders are really sticking in your mind, you should contact some Ford crazies who run Rangers off road for a better idea of what breaks and what doesn't. Yea I've been cruising ranger forums looking for info. Some are good, others are meh. Hard to find communities with the same "nature" as hybridz. g RedZedTurbo's 280ZXT gets 30MPG and puts down 215HP right now...Megasquirted L28ET with a T31/T04E hybrid. The Maxima K-stamp camshaft if how he's getting the killer milage. I've known plenty of L28ET's getting 30mpg. Main issue with the L28ET is that 1. Needs EFI which can double a swap budget. 2. I can't find cheap L28ET donors lately. The market is STUPID!!!! It's unreal what datsun stuff is going for lately. I really don't understand why I can get a RB cheaper than a L, even if it IS a RB20 or 25.... But let's just draw it out real quick: Say I find a cheap L28ET, lately that might be: $300: Motor w/manifolds $350: DIY MS2 $25: Trigger Wheel (or dizzy pickup wheel, either way) $210: Wideband $70: Wiring Harness $200: Injectors $50: Misc Sensors We're already at $1250 and there's lots of odds and ends I haven't gotten into. I've got a L28ET '75 and plan to build another engine on the side. I understand what all goes into it. In a perfect world I'll find an engine that I don't have to tune to be happy with, and that saves me the cost of a wideband and whatever form of tuning (nistune, tweecer, etc). The LS1 should hit high 20's without even trying hard, even without a tune. That's definitely a huge advantage for it. Sorry for the lack of quote bubbles. Every night from 11pm to midnight I can't access hybridz and I missed posting before 11 by like 2 minutes so I had to copy/paste an hour later.

Not sure if he sold it, but he WAS in modesto/turlock, not reno. No guarantee he didn't move though. Haven't talked to him in a while.

Or do what 510six did and build a 400+ L28ET and then throw on nitrous for good measure and then shove it into a little 2 door....

Like the title suggests, post the weight of parts you might happen to have lying around or wanting to pull off your car. My goal is much similar to the definitive engine weights thread, which is to gather RELIABLE and VERIFIABLE information. Please include as many details as possible. Just as you shouldn't post an engine weight without sharing if the flywheel was on or not, please include all that was on the part. Example: Don't give us a hood weight without specifying if that includes the hinges, springs, etc. I expect honest measurements, not just guesses. If possible share how you weighed the part, and if it's quite heavy (like an engine block) please be sure you're using accurate measuring devices that have been zero'ed. Since I'm starting this, I'll go first. Rear Bumper: 25-26 lbs Scale Used: Reliable Bathroom scale, measured 3 times for consistency. This weight includes the main steel box frame of the bumper, the rubber cover, and the chrome cover that goes over the steel box. For those curious I'm including a picture of what the inside of the rear bumper looks like, so you know what makes one up. Dash: 20 lbs Scale Used: Same as above Includes: Metal Frame, Padded Cover(stock, no carpet or cap), Center Cluster, Cruse Control Switch, Rear Wiper/Dash Light Dimmer Switches, Air Vents Does NOT Include: Speakers, Center Gauges, Dash Support that goes across car (I believe the steering column is bolted to that piece too, anyhoo, it's NOT included as part of the dash here) I hope to have more input in the future, and I hope others have some stuff to contribute. I have good guesses as to what things weigh, and sadly many things I no longer have spares of sitting around, so I guess it'll have to wait for another day.

Intercooler requirements are directly related to heat output, which is directly a function of where you're at on your compressor map. But forget all the theory talk that could ensure, reality is: 10PSI is FINE on the stock turbo which can get you to 200rwhp when tuned right. Change to a decent T3/T4 hybrid and you can run up to about 12-14psi with no intercooler and make as much as 250rwhp. If you're willing to convert over to E85 you can probably get away with as much as 14-15 psi on the stock turbo with no intercooler, if not MUCH more in all reality. The key to all this is TUNING, and that should be a high priority no matter WHICH engine you choose.

Background: So I've been going through a lot of "what if's" regarding keeping my S130. I hate that it's not smog test exempt here in CA, and I hate that I live somewhere that doesn't do the "test once during ownership" like out in the sticks of the state. I hate certain aspects of the S130, but I really do have a soft spot to them as more and more they are very much all that I wanted in the S30 when I got into z cars so many years ago. It's relatively light (my slicktop is right about 2600lbs depending on gas in the tank, and 90% stock) Fits any engine Good platform for power (strong diff, axles, lots of room for tire, etc) Cheap cheap cheap!!! I loved the S30 because 2k used to be a lot of money for a decent car. Now 2k is cheap for a runner.. So I'm finding ways to validate the idea of keeping the S130. It's the only slicktop S130 I've owned, and I've owned 4 S130's. I've converted it to R&P Power steering (was recirculating ball), and it's overall very low rust, with just some minor problem spots that are typical. So my dream goals in trying to figure out what to put in goes something along these lines: The car needs to reach 30+mpg, and fairly easily and an extra is big bonus points. Needs to make at least stock power, but 200 to the wheels is more than enough. I've got my S30 for raw speed kicks. Needs to be at least somewhat legal. I've considered trying to get a CA20DE BAR labeled and swapping in turbo bits... That's about as illegal as I'll get though, and I know the laws better than many, if not most on here when it comes to CA smog. Needs to be affordable. Sub $2k for total swap would be ideal. Fabrication stuff is nearly free for me as I'm getting into that line of work part time. So take average engine/trans cost and double it and I'm sure I can do it for less than that. Some engines that have crossed the dream table: 99+ Mustang 3.8. Gets 28mpg highway in the stang, shares the V8 bellhousing pattern (huge +!), overall a real gem. Too bad it's V6, but I can get over that. This motor meets MANY of my requirements in spades. Love that it's tuneable by any mustang ECU tuner too! Ford 2.3 Lima. Great workhorse. Not sure it'd win me any MPG races, but just such a neat motor. But it'd have to be turbo in all honesty, and cheap turbo donors aren't exactly easy to find anymore. And I really DO need a full donor to do the swap legally. BMW, pretty much ANY inline 6 from about 1992-2002. All great motors. Though, despite their EPA rating I can't find many people on fuelly.com that actually get or beat EPA ratings, which means 30mpg would be a struggle from the looks of it. And in the end it's not a "cheap" option really. SR20DE(t) I'd totally rock the NA version legalized, and then see about swapping turbo stuff over, but such a PITA and I'm not a huge fan of the SR valvetrain, and if I owned a DOHC I4 I'd want to rev it constantly. KA - Great engine, affordable... Not stellar MPG, but I'm sure that's fixable with a tune. It'd be begging for a turbo though, and I REALLY don't want to get into finding or even paying for a CARB legal kit, which are almost always insanely priced. So I'd be stuck NA which is just meh. If smog weren't an issue I'd love to build a Z22E block, L20A crank, KA24E head frankenstein. There's the slimmest of all chances that you MIGHT be able to legalize a KA swap and then change the bottom end out with nobody the wizer, but really... that motor is BEGGING for either ITB's or carbs and that'll never fly during smog tests. Why do all that work to be stuck with the KA intake? I'm sure I'm missing a few. A LOT of motors have gone through my scrutiny lately. QR25DE even was on my list, but meh. So, onto the Duratec for those who skipped all that... ...I can find ford rangers (post 2001 when the started the Duratec 23) for under $2k, in running shape, driveable, no need to tow. I'm sure if I hunted around tow yards and such I could find one in the $1k ball park that would suite me just fine. But wait, I'm getting ahead of myself. First, the DURATEC name is just a brand label. It tells you NOTHING about the engine. It's like "i-force" or many of the other cheesy engine names put onto marketing brochures. The issue is that ford has a nasty habbit of not giving engines proper designations that people actually use or understand. The most common name for the engine we're talking about is the 23NS variant of the Duratec 23. These motors are virtually identical to the Mazda 4 cylinder, as they were engineered by mazda from what information I can find floating around. Seems there's lots of parts floating around for the mixing and matching. What I don't have much information on is what the bellhousing pattern is like, and what possible transmission options there are, as something tells me the transmission in the ranger might not be all that exciting.... It makes a measly 140ish range HP but does so at around mid 5k range on most models, which isn't bad for 2.3 liters if you think about it. The right little mods should go a long way to bring these motors to life. Exhaust, intake, cams, flywheel/clutch should all serve to really make things interesting up top, which the bottom end should do more than happily. Adding a turbo would be ideal, but it falls into the same boat for me as the KA and such, which means a turbo conversion would probably never happen. The big selling point is that I'm finding people that average 28mpg a tank... in the ranger pickup! Low 30's should be more than doable, and from a huge lumpy 2.3 4 banger. I can't find many large displacement 4 cylinders reaching those numbers in stock form. The fact I can get an entire donor car with a RWD trans for an affordable price is a huge plus, and that it should be a fairly "no frills" donor that shouldn't give up much of an electrical fight is a huge bonus too. So does anyone have some experience with these motors? Am I crazy? Got better ideas for my goals?

What were you using to trigger before? The '81 CAS is KNOWN for it's issues, and the '82-'83 optical setup I don't exactly trust a whole lot either, though it's at least a more robust design. Did you go with the DIYautotune trigger wheel that goes inside the dizzy or did you go the crank trigger route?

There's no reason you can't build the L24(e) to 200+hp, even at the wheels. It just takes dedication to the details. There's also no reason NA hp has to equal low MPG. Yes they can be related, but MPG has more to do with tuning and driving style than it does inherent engine design. I've seen guys get 20% or more than EPA ratings out of an engine. I've also seen people that get 20% LESS than the EPA rating. I've owned B16 swapped CRX's and had friends with the same or similar swaps that put 150+hp to the wheels, nearing S2000 HP/Liter stats and we all FLOGGED them on a daily basis, and STILL got 35+mpg per tank. Even with the YS1 trans wit ha 4.44 final gear, cruising down the freeway at 4,500 I could STILL manage 35mpg no sweat. So, with all that said, lets talk power. What do you want? That determines your path limitations. Goals goals goals. Figure them out, or you'll chase nothing forever. ITBs are awesome, cool, and just awesome. But they're completely pointless for 90% of us. They're way more about the look and sound, and if that's why you want to do it don't let ANYONE stop you. That's A-Okay with me. Novelty is a get out of jail free card. You can't rightfully disagree with someone's decision if it's about style, that's their choice. That said, a good log manifold with the right size, straight runners can make a lot more torque down low and be more responsive at street RPM ranges due to the higher velocity retained. So, before we dive in, let me say that you should be prepared to invest either time or money. People often say "Fast, Reliable, Cheap, pick any two" and that's fairly true for the most part. I personally believe in an expanded philosophy of that, and that those three things are on a sliding scale and you can have certain amounts of each, and that some combinations are inherently better overall, or have a higher average of each. I also believe there's a 4th aspect, which is time. Almost any cost can be offset with time. Time gives you and edge to LEARN how to DO something YOURSELF. Tools to port a head are a helluva lot cheaper than getting a head ported by a shop, and can often be JUST as good. There are plenty of people who's FIRST port job turns out FABULOUS results, because they took their TIME to LEARN. Onto business.. #1. Power is made in the head, but many guys just go hog wild porting the intake and exhaust ports to unreal sizes.... no no no no no.. just say no. If you could only touch ONE area of the head, focus on valve unshrouding. Your valve spends considerably more time at lower valve lifts than it does at high lifts. Going from a .450 lift cam to a .65 lift cam doesn't make NEARLY the difference that duration and overlap can make. Smooth out the ridge at the valve seat as much as possible. Scribe the head with the gasket to see how much meat you can take off around the valves to keep the radius as smooth as possible and you've gotten the largest flow increase most any street head will ever get. After that smooth out the bowl transition and raise the intake port as much as REALISTICALLY possible (in other words don't just port from the centerline but raise the centerline by leaving the floor alone and porting the top side. #2. Think about everything as a SYSTEM. Don't just throw an exhaust on until you've thought about intake, cam, and head flow dynamics. Too many guys just throw a cam in and expect to make power. You also can't do a ton of head porting and expect the stock intake to do well on it. You can't throw a header on with a cam and expect 40+ hp to just show up at your door. Research, research, research. Once you think you know what you want to do, call a pro lie robello, or braap, and see what they think about your proposed setup and if they have any suggestions. #3. In the process of all this, don't forget about your goals. Have clearly defined goals from the get go. Define them. Refine them. Detail them. Without proper goals you'll only chase NOTHING, for just about FOREVER... #4 Ditch the stock EFI. It's rubbish. The sooner you accept that, the happier you'll be. Pure opinion, so take it as such. Most of the people around here like megasquirt because it's very DIY and that's what we're into, and why we own Z cars. Haltech and SDS are both great options if you want customer service on the phone and an easier to configure system. I suggest using a crank mounted trigger wheel instead of the dizzy, as it'll be more accurate and less prone to issues. They're about $30 and worth every penny. In reality, just headwork, cam, exhaust, and a ported EFI manifold tuned by a good EFI system that's also controlling spark could net you around 150+ hp to the wheels on a fairly "mild" setup that'd be wicked fun and still capable of GOOD MPG, possibly better than you're getting now considering you can run closed loop on a wideband, shooting for learner AFR targets than the stock system does. Just some food for thought.

Yea, L24 bored to 86 with L28 dish pistons + N42 head + L24 Crank + L24 Rods puts you in the upper 7:1 ratio, about 7.8 I believe. Flat tops would put you in the low 9's, around 9.3:1 Flat tops would be more ideal, or dish with the L28 crank and rods too... Full blown L28 at that point, why save the block except maybe it's cheaper than getting a full L28 motor?

Worth repair? Maybe not. But if you had some L28 pistons I'm sure once you'd bored out to 86mm I'm sure they'd look brand new. But you would have to have some L28 pistons lying around.

Huh? That's a standard 280ZX alternator belt.... http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MBH0/9350/03305.oap?year=1981&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209338&ck=Search_C0074_1209338_2871&pt=C0074&ppt=C0007 Note that it says "fan and alternator"... tada! And the part number in case that link dies eventually, is 9350 from MasterPro, or 9350 From Gates Main reason I'm making sure to clarify this, is that using the alternator as the ONLY tensioner for it's belt is an OEM application. If you have issues you probable have some other issue somewhere regarding pulley alignment, or you under/over tightened it. Just wanted clear info out there.

Nevermind, that 5 bolt is certainly NOT the right one for the stock T3

Or you get the 5 bolt flange and make your own wide mouth downpipe that allows for better wastegate flow... I'm pretty sure the 4 bolt is a standard t3 piece. A lot of the pics on the net are a 3" hole pictured though which I think skews the perception. It WOULD be nice to get some 100% confirmation though, and that I can't give you. I can just try to point you in the right direction.

should be one of these http://www.racepartsolutions.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JOD-96500D

Generally you want to run whatever your ECU is setup to run. In an OEM ECU you usually can't just tell it if you're running high or low impedance injectors, while with something like megasquirt you can. If you had low impedance injectors stock, you can't add high impedance because there's no way to lower that impedance to change what the ECU "sees" so to speak. While you CAN run a low impedance injector in place of a high impedance injector, but you need to add a resistor pack in order to make it work. Many OEM's do this, and you can see a prime example in the Z cars. Just google "280ZX Resistor Pack" and you'll see the injector resistors that pulled the low impedance injector's value up to spec for the ECU to handle. Note that the turbo models didn't require this, even though they ALSO used low impedance injectors... ...Wasn't all this covered in the injector FAQ threads? And I do believe a quick google search should dig up some general info going into more detail as to WHY some injectors are high, and others are low impedance.

http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=102

HA! You think I'm even going to lift the HEAD? You're cray-cray. I've got a cherry picker for heavy lifting. Probably won't ever come unbolted from it either, I'll make a work space right by the vehicle so the head just gets lifted up, and set down. I can use the picker when I need to move/rotate the head around, then just pick it up and plop it on when done. Work smarter, not harder.

So 3 week later and guess what happens? I swear my car goes on hybridZ at night and stalks my posts.... ...In the last 3 days I've developed a HUGE exhaust leak. I'm fairly certain the leak is at the manifold to lower pipe, but I'll check before ordering a new gasket. I'm also fairly certain this has been a long time coming. Rayapp helped me swap the cat not long ago and we threw in a 3" unit he had from a turbo motor, which meant we had to weld in reducer adapters to my wimpy stock NA pipes. Well I think the movement combined with possibly being a tad short in length might have added undo stress to the upper joint, and slowly burned the gasket out. Anyhoo, I'd already been planning my attack on the head. I figured that since my intake/exhaust gasket was fine that I could get away with changing the head gasket without pulling the manifolds. Speed things up, and make it easier on myself. I'd already planned on unbolting the exhaust at said point of current leak... So we're upping my schedule on this. I've got the parts priced out ready to order and will order them later this week. Parts include: Head Gasket Exhaust Gasket Valve Cover Gasket Valve Stem Seals Degreaser Wire Brush So I'll pull the head, put it on a bench. Clean it up nice and new, pull the old valve seals, install new ones, clean the pistons, and reassemble. If I get it all done smoothly enough in a day I might also do another compression test. On the other hand, once I get to cleaning I can get kinda OCD and might spend all day getting oil stains off my valve cover....

The RX8 is a great platform. Has a lot of the same quality communication that you get in the miata, but most certainly feels like a heavier car. In reality they're not THAT heavy though. Their biggest downfall was the lack of power, being NA only, and once Mazda had issues not being able to meet rated horsepower then the tuner crowd pretty much gave up on them. Being in CA it'll be hard to justify turbocharging the stock motor too. If you're happy with the stock power when you drive one, it's certainly got my blessing as a DD. Doesn't get the greatest MPG, but it's not BAD by any means, and is probably one of the coolest 4 seaters that can actually hold 4 adults in it's era and price range. I'd say find an STI in that price, which you CAN, but the bigger issue is maintenance cost. Consumables on the EVO and STI are SPENDY. Go price out pads, rotors, plugs, wires, etc. They're NOT cheap to keep in tip top shape. The RX8 on the other hand will be low cost all around. 15k will also get you a REALLY nice 350Z... Should get mid 20's mpg, has nearly 300hp, comfortable to sit in, motor reliable as nails. Not a bad choice. But it IS heavy, doesn't have much cargo, and isn't a real looker imo. But if space isn't a huge concern, you can also look at the second gen MR2. Great cars. Handle wonderfully and cheap to maintain. Little spendy for what they are imo, but so is the FD3S. It's a contender, that's all. A great car that you might overlook because it's a FF platform is the SVT Focus or later Focus ST. Just all around amazing car for what it is. SVT was specifically thinking of the average auto-x-er when they designed their version of the focus. It handles really well for being FWD and it's very easy to mod and work on, and also easy on the pocket book. And on that note you can easily get a Mini S in that price range, even one of the newer ones with the turbo (don't get the first year of the turbo, they had issues). Biggest problem I have with these is that they can be spendy to work on. But all around great platform that's fun to drive at the limit. Probably another one that'd be high on my list of recommendation, would be the 03-04 cobra, if you can afford the MPG, which WON'T be good. Most are over $20k though, and finding one down around 15k will be hard. But you CAN find the Mach 1 for that price, and if you take care of it probably shouldn't drop much in value. The mach 1 is still a great mustang with a great engine, and can be a hoot on the track just like the cobra.

My favorite was when I got a clutch master cylinder that was OBVIOUSLY assembled incorrectly... You gotta wonder how some of this stuff passes QC....