Gollum

Well just as pete brock... I think his engines lasted quite some time at fairly high revs. Though he has some interesting information regarding the early Z cranks, that would pretty much explode the engine once a certain RPM was hit, I think it was like 7500 or something else relatively low. After he finally got nissan to fix the issue (which the did for the production cars as a whole) they were able to run up to 9k no issues. I'd bet that our stock Nissan cranks are probably more relible at 8k than a large displacement 4 cylinder at 8k, fully counterweighted or not. An inline 6 engine is the most inherently low harmonic vibration engine other than a V12. Not too many harsh foces pulling things apart. Plus we have a lot more main caps than other engine types.

How long have you owned and maintained the vehicle? It sounds like you just fixed a problem that was poorly treated in the past with a workaroud. The changes you made have made a difference, so now you just need to figure out why the car won't start. That's easy, you've either got too much fuel, no fuel, no spark, or poor spark timing. I doubt it spark related. So start checking the rest of the fuel system. Check the injectors, then check your lines, then check your pump.

The head temp directly controls the fuel table on the ECU, if it's not reporting the correct temp then you could end up extremely rich or lean. The AFM very rarely "goes bad" and I'd be willing to bed it's not the source of your problems. You're merely seeing the result of another problem through controlling the door manually.

Then it's most certainly not the AFM. You have a problem elsewhere. Check your fuel pressure, and check the head temp sensor via the FSM procedure.

You have this setup because someone didn't want or have the means to do a full turbo motor swap. I'd say keep it the way it is for now, and tune it conservatively. Run the MSD BTM at 2-3 degrees per PSI, and run the idle timing to around 5-8 degrees. That should get it running decently, but you'll be leaving a bit of power on the table, which I'd consider "ok" until you get MS controlling spark as well. And if that's the plan then I'd skip looking for a 82-83 turbo dizzy, since using a crank trigger will be more accurate and cost effective in the long run. You can ALWAYS take your crank pulley and have a machine shop bolt/weld a EDIS 36-1 wheel on it. You can keep AC, not a big deal. Oh, and the link/article posted above by pyro is a good article worth reading, just remember that it's far from a comprehensive article on the subject and there's a lot more to it, such as the camshaft you run, how well the head breathes, your RPM range, combustion chamber shape, rod/stroke ratio, intake temps, chamber temp conformity, chamber hot spots, amount of quench, fuel atomization, fuel type, etc. But the basis of the article is solid ground. More boost = less compression you want to run. IMO the easiest way to get around this, is to increase the flow of the head. Then you don't need as much PSI for a desired HP level which means lower PSI levels for a given HP output, which means you can run higher compression, and have a faster spooling turbo and more HP before boost comes on. But head work can get pricey, but it's usually worth it to a point.

According to these specs: http://www.newprotest.org/projects/510/dizzy_specs.htm your dizzy doesn't have a whole lot of advance, which should be ok as long as you set it very conservatively. This actually isn't so bad though, since it won't be able to pull timing under boost. But it's going to give you fairly poor mid-range feel. And with a stock T3 you might not get full vacuum advance on the freeway. It's workable, just be careful, and definitely get the thing tuned by someone who knows their stuff, and then learn for yourself. Megasquirt is much easier than some of the other EFI's out there to tune, and it would benefit you well to be able to do your own tuning.

Please just take some detail pics of the dizzy and post them. I think this might be the reason you're having troubles. More people blow up their engines from spark control rather than fuel. I can't count how many people have put a turbo on their flat top/P79 setup and blew it because the NA dizzy is just poopoo for turbo application. Even the turbo 81' CAS dizzy has blown it's fair share of motors. You want to run the 82/83 turbo dizzy with the corresponding oil pump shaft. Stock timing curve is only good till around 250 wheel hp, then it's highly recommended to get some type of programmable unit on that dizzy (which is fine, many people run these dizzys with MS and have seen very impressive numbers). And actually since the 82/83 dizzy is electronic (not vacuum+mechanical) you'll need some type of controller for it. I'd recommend this one: http://www.msdigniti...on_Control.aspx Also, if you were to go that route, with the MSD you could also just setup a hall sensor on the crank and just remove the dizzy altogether.

You'll be FINE!!!! I really wish this was more concrete on these forums as so many people have run these setups with no issues. The only problem people run into is with a BAD TUNE. The flat tops on a P79/P90 are actually LESS prone to detonation due to the increase in QUENCH but when you add a huge gasket you just REMOVED all that quench. Your setup will be BETTER on an OEM or Felpro gasket. I've been following turbo builds on this site since 2004.... The compression ratio with flat tops is still plenty manageable. The guys that are running HUGE power numbers are usually running a custom flat top with an open dish under the chamber area, to allow for full quench to still be utilized. They might have lower compression than you'd end up with having a normal gasket, but they're also putting 400+ to the wheels. Search for Tim's setup. From all the tests and dyno sheets I've read over almost the past decade, I'm actually more inclined to think the opposite at this guy's HP goals. Even at 300 wheel HP I think you're better off running flat tops. The flat top on the P90 doesn't NEED as much timing to make the same power. Timing is good, but it's not everything. An engine should only ever run as much timing as it needs to make power at the RPM you want. The higher compression and quench of using the flat top on this head makes the air/fuel charge burn FASTER, thus needing less time to burn it all. This means that if you add too much timing your peak energy of gas expansion will be before the piston reaches TDC. No, some might argue "But running race gas allows me to run more timing advance, so I must be loosing power on pump gas with my pulled timing" That's misleading. Race gas burns SLOWER, so it NEEDS more timing to make it's power. And the slower burn is more controllable, and you can normally run more fuel, both equating to the increase in power. It's not the timing alone that sees any power increase. Food for thought: F1 uses extremely low octane fuels, because race gases burn so slow they'd never burn complete at F1 RPM. An F1 engine can actually run on pump gas and not detonate.... because they simply outrun detonation at those RPM levels. This should show you that in F1 the battle isn't getting enough timing or anything like that, it's getting fuel that burns fast enough to run the tight timing they NEED to. And so I'm back full circle. If you want HUGE numbers, then run CUSTOM pistons that still allow full quench to be utilized. Used these heads for what they're GOOD for. Start with a flat top and have the dish area be ONLY under the area of the chamber. Then you can run a lower 8.5:1 which is pump gas friendly, and then you can use race gas/ethanol to get your 400+ wheel hp numbers.

There was a T5 supplement for one of the years that said to use ATF. I'm not sure if this was a change they made down the road, but I've read it probably a hundred times when I was doing my turbo swap and had a T5 bolted to it.

Yea, the very post above mine. "where did you get this information". I'm stating that the FSM says very clearly to run ATF in your Borg Warner T5. And it's also well advised on mustang forums that ANY T5 with factory syncros to run ATF. Those syncros are like paper and need to be treated very nicely with very thin oil otherwise they'll grind and destroy themselves quite easily.

So it's a N42 head. No injector provision, square exhaust ports, open chambers. Still no pics, sorry. Right now I'm strongly thinking about just putting this head on my spare bottom end and throwing it into my S130 in some fashion of which I'm not sure yet. But that should help some of that car's problems, and it deserves it. Then I can figure out what to do from there. For my S30 I'm thinking I'm going to go LS1 but I'm not sure how and when yet. But putting the engine together for the S130 shouldn't cost me hardly anything, just the price of gaskets and my time.

The FSM....

Oh I now the compression is low, it needs to be rebuilt. It's got over 220k on it now and hasn't had an easy life. I never need to worry about visual passing. I just don't want to have to find a spare 280ZX around to REALLY cheap the system. No thanks. And I know from previous testing that I'll pass just fine if I hook a hand vacuum pump to the EGR. The theory is that if I had a good solid bottom end, with carbs that there's the chance I could get it to pass the sniffer. And no worries killerbjt, locals like you will get first dibs on all my L series stuff if I sell it all. I hate dealing with shipping parts long distances.

Meh, paint weighs too much....

I guess I'll have to check it again, I thought I was pretty sure it was an N series head that wasn't setup for fuel injection. Maybe I'm wrong though. I'm positive at any rate that it's NOT setup for fuel injection, thus would need to either be ground to take injectors, or I'd have to use a custom manifold with injectors further up stream. And the EGR isn't bothering me on my 81', but for what ever reason I'm not pulling enough vacuum to operate it is why it barely passes smog. I've removed EGRs before, but do LIKE to pass smog here in CA even if the visual is completely false. Having someone test a different car as mine is just too much work, honestly.

Oh it was so funny Tony. I was explaining this banter back and forth to this friend, and mentioned your last post, and we both got a good laugh from it. Yes, of course he's a lead foot. A very, VERY good driver still, but he's anything but delicate with the throttle. It's the main reason I'm usually faster than him when we go carting. But he's certainly got amazing car control. His new setup though (just converted to E85) now breaks the tires loose if he punches it at 3500 in 3rd gear.... That's pretty scary for a mostly stock all wheel drive car. We were going over today what all he has invested in this engine, since he went back to the stock turbo for now, and one of the most expensive things he's bought is his wideband, then downpipe, and behind that his $60 USB tuning cable. It's just plain stupid. Now, he did get his 1000cc injectors for free, but still. Stock intake, stock intercooler, stock turbo, stock ECU. Oh, and to show he's not a total idiot, he's thinking of going with a high end GT30 instead of a GT35 for his next turbo, simply because he's seen guys with 30's hit pretty impressive numbers and it still spools in the 3k range well. In the ride I took today though (my first ride since the E85 swap) I couldn't believe how much power is there, and how instantly. Turbo lag??? Wha???? Almost 400 torque to the wheels, at around 3700 iirc. And those are conservative numbers.

Here I am, pulling an all-nighter, working on customer laptops, with my wife sleeping, and that was entertaining even WITHOUT SOUND. Amazing phil, as always.

I took these today while going for a ride in a friend's' car. Thought some of you guys might like some shots I ended up with. No real post processing, no time for it lately. Just mild crops and resizing to get to the ratio I've been using, and a size good for internet usage. I've been gravitating towards the 5x7 ratio lately. It's very close to most print sizes, and I like the look of it too. Icon of insanity: Taste of whats to come: 2nd gear rowing: MORE BOOST!: Camera was a D40 w kit lens (18 to 55 non VR) set in Aperture manual mode, set wide open. ISO 800

So today I picked up a free rebuilt N47 that is supposed to have nissan comp springs and valves installed (springs are obvious, valves just look stock to my eyes. Just needs a cam & lash pads and it's ready to rock. I already have a perfectly good P90 sitting on a shelf. I have a L28ET in a 75' S30 and a stock L28E in a 81' S130. I also have a L28ET block sitting in my garage, short block complete. I'm growing tired of these motors, but I just somehow keep collecting parts for them. I'm kinda stuck with the inline 6 to some degree in the 81' due to smog, but I'd been debating putting carbs on it since I've only been getting around 22mpg on average anyway. I know there's something wrong, but other than low compression I can't find it. I know the EGR isn't opening all the way, so maybe I've got low vacuum somehow? At any rate, I'm kinda stuck debating what to do to make use of all this stuff I've got. The new N47 is in great shape, obviously fresh from a machine shop, and the guy that owned it NEW datsuns and I trust him whole heartedly. Decades of master tech status for multiple companies, he knows his stuff and loved Z cars. So here's some ideas I've thought of (please give me your ideas too, just remember that I'm not blowing the bank here) Idea 1: Take the turbo block and put the N47 head on it, get a semi wild street cam in it and put it in the 81'. I can either find a carb manifold, and figure on swapping it out every smog time, or I can build an EFI manifold and megasquirt it, or I can take a die grinder to the head to accept an OEM intake maifold and pray I can diagnose any problem on the existing EFI (which won't be happy with the new cam) This idea would then allow me to take the flat top piston block, rebuild it, and take my P90 sitting around and go to town doing what one can in his own garage. I could then put this new turbo engine into my 75', or another Z down the road. Idea 2: Take the new head and put it on the same spare block, but then just throw it into my turbo car as an odd turbo combo. I could then take that motor out of the 75' and put it into the 81' and maybe eventually put a turbo on it (I know the engine currently in the 75' is in great shape). The only problem with this combo is that I'd need to make an intake for it, since the N47 doesn't have the injector provision. This isn't exactly bad though, as I've wanted to anyway. I could find a 240Z cam and throw it in there, and once megasquirted it might make for a pretty nice street getup. Idea 3: Take the new head as a gift from God, and sell the damn thing, along with all that I can L engine related. Put a low mile KA24DE in the 81' and keep the L28ET in the 75' until I find the time and money to do something I really actually want, like a VG30ET or VQ35DE, or LS1, or KA24DET, or 5.0, or anything else that's cheap that I don't have to worry about blowing up until well after 400 wheel HP.

I really want to shave the back of my DD, but I'd also want to smooth out the sides, and make custom smoother hood while I was at it. I think if you smooth out some of those harsh lines then dealing with making a custom from piece would be easier to visualize. But I agree that most of the front bumpers/air dams for the S130 just don't look right without a rear bumper.

I'll throw in my 2 cents. I've driven several B16 CRX's, and it's amazing that though all of them were probably within .5 of a sec in the 1/4 mile they all felt SO different. Some of the key things was that the fastest FEELING one had SOLID engine mounts (4 instead of 3) and also had OLD OEM suspension that was very tired. Bushings were pretty much shot to hell. It also had a YS1 tranny that would have you into vtec at about 70mph. That thing was a SCREAMER. It felt like it was putting you into your seat in 4th gear at 110mph, with a measly torque number, but it was flat. And then comparing that to a stock 88' GT, the mustang felt like it'd be slightly faster, but it was actually slightly slower. And compared to a 93' cobra, the SVT was way, way faster but only felt a little quicker than the 88 GT... odd eh? Both mustangs had similar torque numbers, but the cobra had stiffer suspension. Now, one of the scariest cars I've ridden in, was a modded NSX. That thing sure put you in your seat, but what was scary was knowing how much car was behind you, how much it gripped, and how fast you were traveling. I'd never ridden in something (at that time) with so much cornering power, and when the driver floored it in the middle of a turn I thought for sure we were going sideways but it just stuck and pushed hard. But in the 1/4 mile, it's by far one of the fastest cars I'd been in. But I'd say that consistantly, the cars that have "put me into the seat" the most are high displacement engines. Even more so is high displacement force induced engines. Even the turbocharged small engines I've experienced still felt different, and I think that's more to do with the torque curve than anything else. I think if you took a low powered 4 cylinder like the KA, with a fat torque curve that's low reving, and force induced it there's a chance it'd put you in your seat like a V8. Who knows. Lots of variables.

This is the only VG I've seen in person, and it's just a VG30E. It was at a brisbane car show back in.... 05'? It was just after I got my sencond Z, and my first show I went to with ZONC members.

I really wouldn't recommend running the 75 AFM on the L28ET ECU. Tuning the AFM is always risky business, especially since they were revising the curve constantly. Even NA to NA year to year doesn't always play nice. (take this with a grain of salt though, as it's coming from someone who's currently very pissed off with the OEM efi and about to switch to MS) Sorry, reread that... so are you using the turbo AFM? If so, the AFM if untouched shouldn't be the problem.

I have both OEM and felpro in my possesion, and I personally don't feel the OEM is worth the price premium. It's a little nicer, and probably won't need as much retorque once burned it, but I garentee you WILL be needing to scrap of gasket crap if it's been on there a while, and you WILL want to replace it. You might be able to get a couple uses out of it, but I wouldn't push it. I like that the felpro is much easier on the wallet if you're taking the manifolds off a lot - like I have when you're trying to track down a manifold leak that's actually at the head... Oh, and I find it funny when people like to trash talk certain company of gaskets, or like to say OEM is the only way to go. I only find it funny because I've seen guys running insane HP levels on the cheapest of gaskets. And I've seen people at stock power levels running metal gaskets... Nothing wrong with anyone's choice, it just kinda makes me chuckle.

I have three, would you like one? One is even from a 2+2, though I'm not sure if they're actually a different part.