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Not to hijack the thread, but that does look good frank what you did with your ZX. I like that look, I was thinking if it would work, but with AE flares insted on the rear. As I can see it does and its a good job.:

No unfortunately it doesnt, it has the 270 degree thrust bearing. I had checked play today and it was as tight as the day that I purchased the turbo. The noise however is still there. Things that I have noticed are its slow to boost, then it hits really hard as revs go up. I cannot find any other loose parts to explain the clanging noise that is makes. It almost sounds like the heat sheild is loose, but it is not. I shouldnt have retightened it lol it was absolutely fine before. Its making me crazy though as to what is wrong here, like I said all I did was retighten the bolts. Anyone have any ideas?

Well that did work and can I say HOLY SHYTE!!!! batman!!!!, wow tha gar flies, how long is it till the front wheels hit the ground, didnt look like they were every really ont he ground from take off. That is an amazingly fast ride. Two thumbs up!!!

Well I was hearing this noise you know, the kind you wonder whats that. So today I look and come to find that the noise is a stud that had back its way out of the manifold and is resting on the side of the fender wall and the frame rail. As I look further I see that 2 others have become loose and only one stud and nut is holding the turbo on. Well I think no big deal, I bolt it all back up and tighten it down, and start her up. Well this is where it gets hairy, it seems at least at idle when you just rev a bit that there is a claning noise, like metal rattling against metal, I cant find nothing loose at all. In an attempt to find it though it is a bit hard as metal transfers sound, but it seems to be coming form the turbo? Could this be as its only 4 months old, and might have about 5000 miles on it. Now with the turbo not fully bolted up it was giving me 15 psi at the intake, but once bolted down tight, boost was above 20 psi, and adjusting down still was up as it was getting dark i didnt go any further. So Im thinking with that small leak could it have been overboosting. Its a T3/TO4E, .60 on the compressor, .63 on the exhaust, 57 trim, stage III wheel. Id hate to see this new turbo trashed because of something this stupid.

Unbelievable, did you see the guys talking about it, wow 10.96 thats gonna be hard to be, the one guy was like he was still burning tire at 400 feet!. That is one fast Shark for sure!! I think the burnout was really good though, just a great hybrid car. Even if it is a Shark

Well I never thought it would work either, and I have a freind who kept telling me upgrade to the irdiums, they are such a great plug. Well and yes they are between 6-7 dollars each, but, they are well worth it. I have had them on my car now for 6 months and no troubles at all. Usually with the BPR7ES that I usually run, they would already be ready to be changed. The part number for the turbo motor NGKS are BPR6EIX-11, stock number 3903, that is the stock plug, I run a BPR7EIX, stock number 4055, which is of course one step colder.

What I do, and its prob diff from most. Well anyway here it goes, and it could be the result of my shabby 60' times, but it works for me. Well I pull up at the line, Ill rev to where Im hearing the turbo spool and will kind of feather the gas between 2500 and 3k. When you are there you will get to know when the light is going green. Usually my times in the 60' are between 1.85 and 2.0, and I think that is the light start I give it. In my ZX the best time I had with stock components was a 13.4 at 101.8. With upgrades and the additon of an LSD I was able to lower that time to a 12.9 at 109.5, and the one thing that I did find was that with the larger turbo I didnt have to shift into 5th. That was also with the 3.54 stock rear. It seemed that the car was running out of breath. With the new turbo, TB and injectors, I can finish the track in 4th without worry. I dont know why this is different, now with a 240Z if you can get traction, I dont see why you couldnt get to the low 13's or 13 flat.

I run my gap at .033 on a boosted set up at 13lbs, with a slightly higher compression ratio, having the 1mm HKS metal HG. I have a stock ignition with the MSD 2 blaster coil, 36lb SVO injectors. My plugs are NGK iridiums one step colder. I had from the stock NGK one step colder plugs a slight idle miss. The iridiums cleared that up and it idles like a charm.

As others have stated I do know your pain as well. First Z I had that was hit was a 72. Not as clean as yours but it was nonetheless decent. First car that I had put a lot of money into and the first Z I had as well. I pulled into the gas station, it was October and I was going to fill the car up to put away for the winter. I saw this girl get into her car, and I thought she cant see me. So Im at the top of the entrance, waiting for her to back out. Mind you Im about 50-60 feet away from her, the tint in her car is so dark I cant see her sitting in it. Anyway she proceeds to back up, and I was thinking she is going to hit me. Of course BANG!! Well she took out the headlight scoop, part of the hood, left front fender and driving home, took out the tire. Good thing was she did admit fault, her company paid, and they were at least on the phone arguing, well the car is a 72, they will probably total it. Im thinking no, it is an antique, with plates miss! Well the adjuster comes down to look at the car. First words out of his mouth are wow thats a good looking Z. I asked, oh you know the car, and he replies, do I, my first car was a Datsun 2000 roadster. Well from there I knew things were going to go well, ended up getting a 1975.00 check from them. It was very nice. Second time I was really lucky, 1250 dollars damage to the rear of my car, from a drunk driver. I was suprised though, the guy, came to mine, took my information, I had talked to my body shop, gave him the quote. It took him about a month, but he paid me in full, I was very happy cuz things could have gone horribly wrong. Good luck and I think all will come out ok for you.

Well what is the car that you have? I can say that I am about at that hieght from the ground in my 280ZXT, and I am running a full 3 inch exhaust. and you cant even notice it from under the car. I do think this would be different with the Z though I am not sure.

Sounds ubelievably mean, hehe I really liked when he was following the white Camaro and just blipped it, that was classic. Though I must admit I would like to see a video of it going all the way down the track. I havent seen one yet less Im missing it somewhere?

I bought 4 ubends from this guy in 3 inch, and I made my whole exhaust out of it less the cone from the turbo for $80 delivered. I dint even need 4 though as I though I would. Im sure for either 2.25 or 2.5 would be much cheaper. http://www.perfomancepeddler.com Shipping is free and its really fast. I was well impressed with his service.

I think that most Ford cars arent all that great, but then again all cars have there inherant (sp) problems. Then again though, I have found Ford trucks are usually good. The two Ford line cars Ive had werent all that great a vehicle.

Well concidering its Michigan I guess it would be rare lol.

I would agree with Mike, I mean you could go with 2.25 and its pretty decent, but you will want to upgrade and if you ever go to a T4, or a Hybrid T3/T4, then you would definetly have to go 2.5 at least to get good gains. I didnt do that and Im wishing that I did now first instead of going with the 2.25 As far as the fans, I cant see why they arent doing you justice

Oh my god that was so funny, thanks for the great laugh!

HAH good for you, I like how they say they cant do this they cant do that. When my grandmother had passed my mother had gotten a bit of money from her that she had left to her from her will. She wanted to buy a new Camry, and well they were talking the same as you said your dealers were talking. They cant do this, they cant do that, destination fees, fees for this and that. So in short, it took 6 dealerships to find one that actually wanted cash in hand and was willing to deal. I had 3 that said you dont have that kind of money on you, no one does. What was great was to watch the GM of the business come over because I was getting a bit irate. He asked what the problem was. I had told him that basically his sales staff was quite rude and basically belittled me and made me feel like I wasnt worthy of his business. Then I had proceeded to show him my mothers bank book. I loved the sight of his eyes when he looked and I basically said, well thats 20k in cash that you can kiss goodbye.

I would have to agree with AK-Z, the most critical part is the balance of the motor more then anything, and I would also suggest as another said, to take a look into Jeff Priddys' set up. Though he has stroked and bored it, I from reading, have come to find that the boring of cylinders isnt really necessary for power. What is absolutly necessary for power though is work to that L6 head. If you look for some of TonyD's posts he explains a lot about this and the Bonneville cars making HUGE hp and going faster then any of us would ever do in a Z, without boring a cylinder wall at all. I would think with a lot of head work, proper ground cam, and the proper turbo set up you could easily be at 450-500 hp, I think you only limiting factor would be your intake manifold if you wanted to keep it stock looking that is.

In the ZX I have which is an 82, when it was still with stock injectors and turbo, running at 15 psi intercooled, usually netted about 18 in the city, and anytime during travel at approxiamately 75 on the highway I would get around 26-28mpg. I would think with a lighter car you should do quite well.

After reading all of this it made me look into my set up. I was running my reference off of the manifold, and I was still using the same old stock wastegate actuator on new turbo just for an ease of set up. Well like I said after reading this I decided that maybe my whole problem was with the stock wastegate. When I had purchased my new turbo from http://www.speedshopthagard.com, it had come with a universal, adjustable wastegate actuator. Well yesterday I had finally taken the time to put it on. Just ran a reference line from the intake manifold to the new actuator. I will say this, boost spike, the bit of lag, though there wasnt much at all was now gone. It also seems that the turbo has a much more profound effect at boost then what it did before. I would think depending on yoru mileage, you may want to look at the actuator as part of your problem. Boost now though holds nicely at 14psi, no spiking and man does it come on hard:)

You should be pretty light, my 71 I had ages ago, with full interior, spare and ac, with about a half a tank of gas weighed in at 2250. So you have the figure the SR is lighter and you lost a lot of spare parts with the car as well, I would no doubt think you are at least in the 2000 range.

Never heard of it but I did see it on ebay like you, was wondering wtf. Seems like its sort of a SDS system or the like, but I have no clue of what system or who owns it or what.

http://www.certifiedmuffler.com/ They make downpipes and cat backs for the Z31, mild steel, or stainless your choice, and the qaulity of theyre products is second to none.

If you do a search, in the turbocharged section you will find where one of our members had upgraded his car, with a new turbo grind cam, that I think he designed hiself. In the end it netted him an additional 30+ hp. I just cant remember who the member was though. An na cam would not work well for a turbo.

Also if you did want to go the Toyota route, I think it is Autozone that has a loaded set of those calipers that fit the stock rotor for only 75.99. You can return anything as a core as they never bother to look.