Cable

Hey guys. I wondered if anyone has cut and re-welded a stock LSx truck oil pan for use with a S30? I figure I need at least 3.25" inches removed from the sump to be at the same depth as a LS1 F-Body oil pan. My neighbor is a welder/fabricator by trade so the skill required isn't an issue and he owes me a few favors. Assume I have the sump modified to be at 5.00" (vs the stock 8.25"). Can I modify the stock truck pickup, or would the F-body pickup be more reasonable to use? Lastly, I know that I would lose some oil capacity. However if its less than 4 quarts (not including the oil filter capacity) I will have him modify the oil pan sump to add capacity toward the front of the sump (like the LS2 Y-Body pan). I know some of you might be thinking, "why not just buy a F-Body or LS2 Y-Body oil pan?". Well, to be completely honest I think paying $250+ for a new or used OEM oil pan is a joke. So now I am considering a cheaper option that will serve the same purpose on a oil pan I already own. Any help is welcomed and thanked in advance.

What muffler did you use with a 3.5 inlet? Thanks!!

Just like it says, prefer non-running, under $1000, must currently registered or non-opt'd (in order words no back tag fees), and have title in your name (no bill of sale or lien BS). Thanks!!

Lets just say its been put on hold. I am starting a LSx powered Z in the near future. When my swap is completed I am going to take my Z to Lemon's Headers (http://www.lemonsheaders.com) and have him custom build me a set of long tube headers and also get a price to build somewhere around 10 sets. This will be a 'group buy', but I will not be the middleman in this deal. Lemon himself will be the cash collector. How does this sound to you guys?

5/8"? That seems alittle too thick in diameter. I've used 5/16" brake tubing and it was close enough.

Stainless and chrome tends to 'blue' over time. Coatings typically don't, plus they retain more heat inside the tubes when coated and normally you get a cooler engine bay in the process.

Bakersfield eh? Your profile says 'az'. What part of Bako are you in? I live in Oildale. So was the truck intake an inch too high, correct? Are you running the truck oil pan too? Give me a call sometime 661-565-2866, my name is Cable.

Digging up an old topic... What is the part number for that cam?

Did the Sanderson headers work for you? Do you happen to remember the part number? Any chance you could post some of the pics during the swap?

If that's how low the LS1 pan hangs, I don't even want to think about how low the truck pan would be that is 3" deeper/lower.

Are you using the stock truck oil pan or the F-body oil pan? I am wondering the same thing. I wonder about this too.... Thanks!!

I would be willing to pay $800 for a set of long tube stainless steal headers for my LSx swap in my Z.

I like the L-88 hood, but how close was the 5.3 stock truck intake to fitting? Thanks!!

Updates?

Bump for updates?

Well I got the modified PCM and harness back from Wait4Me and plugged everything back in today. Still have to mount the PCM somewhere on the driver's side, prob on the inter fender well. I also have to wire up the the harness for stand-alone operation (3 ignition switched and 1 constant 12 volt) fuel pump and relay.

Engine/trans installed: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9999014&postcount=3

Thanks again for the replies guys. The engine is in the truck, but I haven't fired it up due to not having my PCM and wiring harness back from being modded.

It will bolt up with 5 of the 6 bolt holes on the tranny. I would also need a flexplate spacer from GM. However, since first posting this topic I scored a 2004 GTO 4L65e & converter with 13k miles on the clock for $800.

So you are saying I am okay, correct?

Hey guys, I had to remove my driver side head due to a broken exhaust stud. I bought new a new GM MLS stock head gasket and new matching bolts (1-10 are all the same length) for my 5.3 2004+ iron block. Okay, I found LS1HowTo.com and their head swap write-up. I followed the instructions on first torquing the M11 (1-10) bolts to 22lbs and then turning another 90 degrees, then another 90 degrees. I did this to all the M11 bolts since they are same length. Well today I read in a "How to Rebuild LSx" book that I should of only turned the M11 bolts to 70 degrees on my final pass. Am I okay or do I need to replace those head bolts (again)? Thanks!!!

Jeez. My setup is the extreme opposite, huge motor in a little car. Nice swap, those little F series motors really wind to the moon too.

Really? Mine is smaller than my '69 factory pedal. You might search around for a truck pedal or a car one for that matter. From what I read they all interchange with the connections and computer sensors.

I agree. I still might add the correct 4L60/4L65e down the road, just not today. Are you going to run the drive-by-wire setup or retro-fit to the cable style? I am keeping the drive-by-wire on mine since I grabbed the pedal and control box for it. Besides, one less thing on the firewall. I love the look of a clean and shaved firewall. If I could, I'd run the master cylinder and booster along the frame rail to keep it off the firewall too.

I guess I should of added this isn't going into my Z. Its going into my '69 Chevy shortbed fleetside. It has 3.08 gears and 29" tall tires. The TH350 is a 'C' model (lockup converter). Thanks for thinking of that regardless.