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Tom, Very nice ride. Who's is it and when can we see it at the track?

You can also use a long bolt for the link. Buy several different links and go from there. I had a similar problem with a different set up and used a set of adjustable end links from Top End Performance.

If an insturctor is driving your car, make sure he knows if he breaks it he bought it. I've seen some bad stuff as the result of people driving others cars and some were instructors.

Use a pusher pump to feed a surge tank and run the Bosch pump from the surge tank. My other car is set up like that and it works very well on the road course.

I've got a fuel safe fuel cell in my ls1 track car. It has the in tank fuel pump. I have no starvation issues. When the car sputters, it's all but empty.

It looks like my stuff. I used a rack from a 2001 STI. No pics of those mounts with the rack mounted. I've got the car apart right now and I'll get a pic of the rack in the X member. I did not change how it was mounted just changed how the motor was mounted. Look around here a few pics in my album. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=23283

I believe you bought my stuff. I used an STI rack.

Mine looks like that. It's out of a 2001 STI.

F40!

I would add more to the other stop. It would probably be OK like it is but I would rather be sure everything is staying in place.

The aftermarket U joint I used sat right in the cut out area. It worked but I ended up making my own mounts.

I am running the stock control arms with delrin bushings. A thicker adaptor would make a difference in how far the axel can move in the housing. Also difference in control arm length settings (camber) will change how far the axel can move. The sound you are hearing is the axel hitting the stops. This also happens with the 280 zx tripods. The tripod axels have a plastic stop on the inboard side that is there to mute this noise. I've ran the tripod set up with out the plastic stops and it makes the same noise.

If you added material to just one stop, I would add material to the other to push the bearings further back in to the housing. Your pics will go a long way to helping others sort this out. Nice post.

Maybe the pilot steers and the copilot brakes.

Glad you've got it figured out.

Before you cut down the faces of the stops, put it together without the boots on the cv's. Grab the axel and move it from side to side. See how far the guts move and make sure they wont come out of the housing.

All the parts spin at the same speed but what I think happens is that the angle between the stop and the shaft changes as the suspension moves and causes the scuff marks. This set up will make some noise on the track. If you have done a track event and the axel has not pulled out of the CV's, it's not going to. Put it back together and don't worry about a few scuff marks. You should see my end stops. Yours look pristine when copmared to mine.

Do your end stops look like this? What is the length of your shafts? http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=16133&ppuser=10667

That looks like mine. Now to get the axel lengths correct and you will be good to go. Let me know if I can help.

I doubt that will fix your problem. That thin tin cap will only keep the grease in place. I left that retaining ring off my CV's long ago. If the axel is the correct length and the end stops are on both CV's the guts of the CV will not get near that ring. Just to be sure what is going on, when you get the new CV, shorten the contorl arms as much as they will go. Grab the shaft and see if you can feel the axel hit the stop. If you can feel the axel hit the stop, drive it and I'll bet it will not pull apart. Alingment will decide if you need to lengthen the control arm. If you do need to lengthen the control arm, you will need to add that length back in to the axel by either flipping the cages or adding material to the end stops.

Great find!