mark

I'm not sure what you mean by move. My end stops are just under the end cap of the cv and I still have the end cap on the CV. It all fits in tight. I could put the end stop on the end of the cv and it has enough space between the outer edge of the cv and the end stop to just fit the stock cv end cap in there. Does that make sense? The axels do move a bit from side to side. That is how it pops out. can you grab the axel and shove it inboard and feel the guts of the cv comming out of the out board side? The end stop should stop this. I've been messing with this set up for about 12 or 13 years. I've been thru this. You can fix it by having longer shafts made, shortening the control arms or increasing the thickness of the end stops. Flipping the cages will help a bit also. Increaseing the thickness of the end stops is pretty easy. You can weld something in the center of the end stop ( large nut, bar stock, and end cut off an old half shaft) I'd add at least a half an inch to each end stop. When you pull the axel apart, post a pic of your end stops. I want to see what Ross sent and how it fits in the CV housing.

It's not the housing. The snap ring is not strong enough to hold the guts in the CV. If you are pulling the guts out of the CV, the axel is too short. Are the cages flipped on both inner and outer CV's? If not you may want to try that. I see you are running adjustable control arms. Can you shorten the control arm and still keep you desired alingment setttings? It looks like you have pleny of thread to shorten the control arms. This would in effect lengthen the axel and keep the CV from pulling apart. I've been thru this. I know it sucks. Hang in there.

Inner tie rods? They seem to get neglected as they are mostly out of sight.

If your wife is in med school, you will have plenty of free time to commute. She will be busy 24-7. She won't have much time to share with you so you will have time for the Z.

The end stops should be between the end of the axel shaft and the end cap of the CV. They should be on the inside of the end caps. I hope that makes sense. Once it is all bolted together, the end cap should be locked into place by the lip on the inside of the outer edge of the CV and the adaptor on the outer CV or the diff out put flange on teh inboard side.

The metal ring in the CV will nopt ho;d things in place. I have a similar set up on one of my cars. YOu need something in the end of both CV's to keep the ael from walking to one side or the other. I've had this happen on both the inner and outer CVs. Ross sells them, just a metal disc that fits inside the end cap of the CVs. It is about 316 thick and machined to fit just inside the end cap. Good luck. No need to get another CV. The one you have will work fine when you get it back together with a stop inside the end cap.

Drive an hour or two at least on the Blue Ridge parkway. Great views. Beautiful area, FUN roads to drive on.

I had one on the car and was not impressed. I could never get it to run right. Just went back to the stock set up again. I've still got it boxed up if any one is interested. You will need a set of plug wires. The rest is there. I've had the best luck with a GM opti.

Great find! Thanks for that effort.

Like it says, I'm looking for a wiring harness and PCM. PM me or respond here. Thanks

You can get the arizona Z stuff in 4 lug also.

I'm not sure 800 will be enough!! If it's a deal too good to pass up, jump on it if you have the cash. You will regret it if you don't. Hey this is HybridZ, I doubt you will get many responses telling you any amount is too much. You could always do a throttle stop on the thing and gradually dial in more throttle. I bet it would be wide open inside a week. Have fun

Start with the most solid car you can find. Auto or manual will not matter.

my formula for determining the cost of buying a project goes like this. Cost of the car (similar unmodified car) plus half the cost of the parts used to modify the car minus the cost of finishing any grossly obvious areas. Where does that put your project?

Thanks John, I liked!

I bet you can find your "ipod" on this site. http://chinagrabber.com/

The pivot point on the tie rods and the control arms are even. The car has been on the track for a couple of years. This mod has done exactly what I expected it to do, allow my skinny arms to turn 285's with ease. The car handles amazingly well. The only problem I had was I burned up the stock ls-1 power steering pump after 2 or 3 track days. This place was the answer. http://www.turnone-steering.com/pumpdirectory.html Good luck with your conversion.

I pulled the boot back to get a shot for you. Drilled and taped to 16x1.0 to fit the 280zx inner tie rods.

I used inner tie rods from a 280zx power rack and the outer tie rods from a Z, both were the right hand threaded tie rod ends. I had to increase the diameter of the subie rack (from on 04 sti) adn rethread to accept the 280zx inner tie rods.

I drilled out and tapped my subie rack to accept the Datsun inner tie rods.

I've got that diff in my Z also running a 383. It will be fine without connecting the two diff mounts. I would run the rear cross member. I had to modify mine to clear the diff input flange.

Been there. You must take your family fishing. Nothing like seeing my wife catch a 9 foot sail fish! Do a zip line canopy tour also. We are going back this year. We'll do the volcano tour, maybe check out a nice beach but will spend post of the time fishing from http://www.crocodilebay.com/ Hope ya'll have a great time.

I've got John C's CF hatch held in place with pins. I have an IMSA rear spoiler mounted to the hatch. It's held on the hatch with 2 3/8 inch bolts and some 2 inch diameter washers. It's been on the track for about a year and a half with no problems.

I had Leith280zlt1 put this unit in my 3.36 R-200 a few years ago. Service was good and the unit has held up well to almost 2 years of track days.