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These are the pistons that came in the calipers. I have replaced the seals before. All are 1.75 pistons.

Enjoy! I'll look forward to a sober analysis.

This caliper is off of my track car. It's seen about 15 days on track. It has leaked once from a bad seal. All seals were replaced, pistons and calipers cleaned and new rotors and pads were put back on the car. At that time there was just a slight bit of anodization worn away. The machining marks were still visible in the cyclinder bores. That was about 4 or 5 track days ago. All poston bores are identical in the direction of the wear and they all look like this. It leaks. The easy fix is to buy a new caliper but I don't want the new one to end up like this one. Any thoughts guys? wilwood caliper Links to full size photos http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/DSC001581.JPG http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/DSC001591.JPG

I was wondering the same thing. If the rotors are straight after they are cut, all should be good. Same thing with shimming, all should be good. However if the issue was the quality of the rotors and they were cut or shimmed, the probem would return after repeated heat cycles. Keep us updated on this. Now I need to do the same with my set up and find what is causing my vibrations after a few track sessions.

Thanks Mike. Please post pics and impressions when you get it.

I used 3/16 x 1 aluminum ( Just like John C.) and ran it inside the car from top to bottom in 2 places dividing the windshield into approximate 3rds. I ran the car with out the bracing and the lexan would buffet at much over 85 or 90 .

I have to give John C the credit. I just copied how the lexan was installed in the rear hatch I bought from Beta Motorsports.

My glass windshield was 19 lbs, Lexan is less than 5 lbs.

I cut it oversize to fill the space the gasket normally takes up. Then used a bunch of these 94639A554 and these 92949A272 (part numbers from mcmaster carr) The curve was formed as the lexan was installed from the center to the outer edges. The lexan sits flush with the a pillars and roof.

420 for a lexan front windshield is not a bad price. I recently made a windshield from 316 lexan and it took about 10 or 12 hours to cut it, fit it and install it. This is on a track only car. I would follow John's advice on the use of lexan.

I see your point. My car came with out any provisions for a rear bar so none of this was a big deal. If you want a rear bar, it looks like you will need to do some work. I'm not sure I would go to the trouble unless this was a track only car.

.5 inch aluminum plate from the local scrap yard. Used a jig saw to cut them out and used the bushing mount as a template to drill the holes in the aluminum. The spacer fits between the bushing and the body of the car.

I had to space my bar down. I used some .5 inch aluminum and made some spacers. Works well.

I've got them on my track car. They work very well. The car soaks up the bumps in the track with much less protest. This is compared to my other V-8 Z car running double adjustable Konis. I'd do it again if I was building another track car.

I have mine plumbed so the T stat hose is dumping in the top of the radiator and pump is pulling from the bottom of the radiator.

I vote for vats.

Good info, Thanks for posting the solution to your problem.

I hope that's all it was.

Does it pop or back fire? Mine was doing something similar and it was a loose plug wire. I hope yours is that simple.

That is cool stuff. I would love to see what that would do on a high powered Z car. Say mine. I wonder what it would do for the steer it with the throttle type of driving? I'm looking forward to seeing some data from their tests. There doesn't seem to be any up on the site now.

Good luck, be safe. While you are there, see if you can find that guy that keeps trying to give me millions..........................

It sits pretty low.

Welcome to the south!