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I see posts all the time about transactions gone bad. I thought I would post a positive story. I recently posted a parts wanted add. I had several members contact me. I bought a set of fenders from one-tuffz. I paid thru paypal. David packed and shipped the parts the next day. I pick up the parts at the local bus station and they were exactly as advertised. I paid on Sunday and had the parts in my hands on Tuesday. That is how it is supposed to be done. I also had another member offer me a set of fenders but he later retracted his offer because he thought they might not be as nice as I was looking for. Both of these guys have been around here a long time. Thanks guys.

The last set I got was the beck arnley brand. I see they no longer carry them. Try www.advanceauto.com I know they stock the beck arnely ones

www.autozone.com I got my last set there.

I use plumb bobs and lots of tape and string. This is where having a lift comes in handy. I hang plumb bobs from the front and rear of the rear control arms. I use that line and one of those cheap lazer tools to shoot a line under the car. Tape and mark several places on the floor. Measure out from each side of the marked line and set up the string down each side of the car. Now the string down the side of the car is parallel to at least the rear control arms. Hopefully the rest of the car is still somewhat straight and also parallel to the string. I've also heard of guys using a known center point on the body of the car and measure out from there. I doubt the body on my car is square enough for that to be accurate. Once the string is set, the hard part is done.

Thanks for the effort. I wonder what 12 thousands at the bracket would translate to at the caliper?

Can you help out lay person and translate that?

Tedder runs a data logger. Maybe he will chime in with a guestamate.

Any idea what Arizona Z's brackets are made of?

I agree, it is alot of deflection. The caliper would need to move about 3/16 at least to do what you see in the pics. I checked and rechecked the mounting hardware and it was not loose. The longer the session went, the hotter the brakes got the worse the noise from the caliper to rotor contact got. At least it's fixed now.

Also something to consider is that cars with runflat tires have a pressure monitoring system. You need to know when they are flat.

After a weekend at CMP, I can safely say my brake problems are fixed. This is one of the old caliper that I took off the car that had the bores scored. Note the wear on the caliper. This was hitting the rotor. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/DSC001761.JPG A close up of the area. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/DSC001751.JPG I tried two sets of aluminum brackets, both allowed the caliper to rub the rotor. My theory was bracket flex. I had a set of brackets made from 3/8 inch steel using the old brackets as patterns. All mounting dimensions are the same as the old brackets. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/DSC00161.JPG Inspection of the calipers after a hard weekend on the track shows no signs of the caliper contacting the rotor. I beat on the car all weekend on a track that is very hard on brakes. A couple of notes. The new calipers are the same caliper that was on the car before. Willwood billet superlites. Same size pistons 1.75. The pistons in the new calipers appear to be cast and machined to size. The old calipers had stamped steel pistons. It seems either the aluimium bracket or the stamped steel pistons or a combination of the two was the problem. I will say I'm no longer a fan of aluminum brackets for brake calipers.

That is an amazing deal! If only..............................

Does this guy have any more ebay auctions? Post a link if so. I'll bid it up!

Here is a link to the kit in the photo. I have this kit and never got around to using it. I'd let mine go for 800 plus shipping if you are interested. Nice looking EVO. Good luck on your project. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113300&highlight=wide+body+kit

I've got one of each. A 383 lt-1 in a 73 Z and a stock ls 1 in a 72 Z. The 383 has 420 hp at the wheels, the ls1 is about 325 at the wheels in stock form. Several guys on here have gotten over 400 hp at the wheels with only a cam and valve spring change (I think). For bang for your buck, especially with some one else doing the work, I think the ls1 is the way to go. There is a bigger market for the ls1 stuff and as already mentioned with the lt-1 you will probabaly have some issues with the optispark. Either motor has the potential to get the power you are looking for. Both have proven installation kits. The ls1 motor does have an alunminum block that will save you some weight. I think the weight difference between the blocks is about 80 lbs. Good luck with your project.

Is the wing mounted to the brackets backwards? Looks like you need to point the rear of the wing toward the front of the car. Leave the brackets on the car and turn the wing around.

Looking forward to seeing and hearing that in person one day. Congrats!