mark

I'm with you guys. I didn't miind the 20 or 25 gallons the Z burned at the track but the almost 200 bucks in diesel to get there and back SUCKED!

Cut out just the rusted part. Cut the part needed from the new pans and patch. I would not remove any solid metal on the car just so you can use all the new pans. others will disagree, just my experience.

Gray spent some time with me showing what the G2x could do. Looks like it would take a little time for me to get familar with the software. I was impressed with what could be done and how I could never lie again about how fast I was if the G2x was in my car. Have fun and get some video of John going thru the kink!

For dual purpose street and track days I have used the Valvoline synthetic stuff. I have also used motul for track days. Some say the motul absorbs water more readily but I always do a brake bleed before track days anyway. Either fliud worked fine for the weekend. I chose these based on a higher fluid boiling point. I think key for any car reguardless of the fluid used is maintence. If the system is topped off and forgotten, no matter the fluid used, brake performance will suffer.

Lmao

I've always used a half inch rachet. Never stripped one.

I'm reasonably sure it's 3/4 inch pipe. I just bought some fittings for my Greddy cover and they were the same size as the R-200 pulgs.

3M makes a rubber wheel that I'vd used to remove stripes and decals from a few cars. It works like an eraser and does not harm the paint. I bought mine at napa. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=0G4KFN490HbeSQSFJR0R56gl

http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html

Good to hear. It will save you some headaches down the line. I'm assuming you have them in the inner and outer CV's.

I'm planning on driving like that for awhile. I just need to adjust my driving style. I don't steer as much with the throttle now.

check you pm's

I'll give it a try. I was at VIR this weekend and have a list of things to check out. One is why the car understeers just slightly. That is a new experience for me in a high powered Z car. BTW you were right about needing the front supports on the lexan windshield.

That looks great. Are you running axel stops in the CV's?

After trying to read that several times I'm convinced that I should have no adjustable suspension parts on my car..................Where's the advil. Need some type of advanced ME degree so I can understand his papers.

If it's not rusty, 1800 is a deal! I'd buy is tomorrow for 2800 if it was not rusty.

She's a keeper!

Your inflatable life size Barbie?

I don't know.

That is my understanding. What I'm wondering about is the shaft diameter and spline count on the two types of shafts. If they are the same and the 280 shaft is shorter than the 300 shaft, it would be much cheaper to source OEM shafts than to have a set made. I had to have a set made for my car even though I was using the 280zx set up. Wheel offset and tire width dictated that I run the arizona z rear control arms in the shortest possible setting which caused the stock shafts to bind. 335 tires on 17x12 wheels and I had a certain look in mind about how the tires and wheels set in the flairs.

I have a couple of stock 280zt shafts in the basement. I'll post my measurements also and lets compare.

Thanks for the pics

If you completely take your axels apart, measure the length and post it. I would be interested to see how close the lengths you have were to Tom's. If the 280 and 300 shafts are the same I may have something you could use. Have you discussed this with Ross? I think it is interesting that this set up has cause similar problems on 2 cars.

That radiator enclosure is a cool looking piece. Any details on that part?

Sorry no pics. I copied 240hokes air dam after I saw pics of it. I'm sure there are some in his pics on this site.