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Good job Tom, What are you using for axels?

One of the stupidest financial decisions I've heard in a long time. Getting out of school debt free is worth more than any car you would end up with. Which by the way will end up being a money pit. They guy will end up charging way more than you expect, the motor will end up needing parts and a rebuild. It will go on and on. Get out of school, get a job, learn to save, save, pay cash for toys!

The downloadable factory manual is here. http://carfiche.com/manuals021/cars/ It will probably have the dimensions you are looking for.

Man I really agree. I can't make no livin down here. Bunch of beer drinkin,cusin lovin rednecks,... What ever you do don't move here,

Small world. UNCC is one of the schools my son is looking at.

Davy, Welcome to the south. I live just north of Charlotte. Easy 45 min commute. You want to stay out of Mecklenburg county. The schools suck and the taxes are high. The two adjoining counties that are the place to live are Union county and Cabarrus county. Both have great schools, reasonable taxes and with in you commute window. I live in Harrisburg. Nice small town. Weddington is in Union county. Also a nice smaller communtiy. Good luck. Let me know if you need a realtor. I know a few.

GPS unit.

I've done 4 or 5 over the years and I really prefer to do it with the trim in place. No corner pieces, just the top and two sides. I'm glad you have a method that works for you.

One extra note to the great post above. You are inside the car pulling the rope toward you. I use one long piece of cord and start at the top center. You can put the trim in place after you get the gasket and windshield in place but it is more difficult. If you tear the small rubber lip that holds the trim in place it looks like $h:) Much easier to get it in there with the glass out of the car. Some of the SS trim may be dislodged while installing the glass but it can be coaxed back in to place. THe keys to this are don't rush and use lots of soapy water.

Very cool. Gota like a guy that mods a new Z. Welcome to Hybrid Z. Now about that LS1 swap.............

I hope he get all that and more for those. I've got a set of NOS door pannels still in the nissan wrappers.

If it's going to be on the track, go with the MM set up or the AZ brakes. The stock or 4x4 can be made to work but they require much more attention and maintence. I've had the stock brakes and the 4x4 stuff on the track during open track days and neither would make it thru the weekend without new pads or a quick bleed. This is in a car similar to yours. 240Z with a T56 and lt-1

Can you reverse the CV cage on the new axel? THis will give you about .75 inch I believe. ALso look for a thread by Mayolives. He had this set up on his beast of a track car and had similar issues. Seems the race track is not kind to this set up.

Thanks for the parts run.

It was a link I found that basically said it won't work. I used the search function. It took two minutes.

Someone who could actually make a part.

Read these. http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=944183

Do you have any codes set? A bad knock sensor will retard the timing. Also, You figure 280 hp at the flywheel plus bolt ons, say they add 20 hp thats 300 at he crank, 15% parasitic loss get you 255 at the wheels. Not a world beater for sure. Put it on the dyno, data log it and go from there. DO NOT throw parts at it until you know where you are to start with and you are sure everything is working correctly.

What ever you do don't buy from showcars. If the glass looks nice, it aint theirs. THey make next to nothing, most of the Z parts pictured on that site were ripped off from other sites.

Just found this on the site. It says one pair are include. Get two pair. Includes: pair of billet 4340 precision CNC machined steel R230 CV/Companion flange adaptors, heat treated, cryogenically treated, and double tempered! one pair of precision CNC machined end stops, required to ensure appropriate CV travel high grade hardware for mounting brackets, this includes OEM 280ZXT stub axle nuts which are preferred (no peening required) and all other high grade hardware for the install optional choice below: custom high strength male male splined axles, engineered with this package

Sorry, no pics. I was on Ross's web site and I can't find a pic there either but I know he has them. If you can find the Q45 CV conversion, it should have a pic there.

lookin good Cruez!

I've had this happen several times. The axel will walk to the inside of the car and pull the outer CV apart. THe solution is a "stop" inside the end cap. Ross has them. For what it's worth, I run them on both ends of the axel. I've had this happen with the inner CV on a road course. Once the end cap stops were placed, I've had no more problems with this. I beat the crap out of the car at open track days. LT 1 and t-56 with the Q diff and CV's.

I think that plate looks a little thin. It'll probably break from flexing! I"M KIDDING!! I've had something like that in mind for a while but if I can't make it with a hammer and duct tape, I'm SOL. Looking foward to more info and pics on this set up. WOW. You won't be able to make them fast enough.

Tom, I doubt 10 ounces will make a big enough difference in the oil level to cause problems, even if all 10 ounces end up in the diff. Where did you mount the cooler? Got any pics?