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I like the way you think! I can hear it now, it won't handel, it won't turn, it won't stop, you've ruined the value, Actually I have heard it before. I'm in.

I'm in, Thanks guys

I can't even find the forum.

Buy from Charlie. I called him and he shipped the pans and trusted me to send him a check. I did not know him and had never done business with him. Pans are top notch.

No rust and no frame damage from a front end collision, I'd buy it. Don't believe the add, check it yourself!

Piston, About your alternator, I've had simialr issues with alternators. I've been thru about 15 or 20. Yes really that many. About 2 a year. A couple of things, I keep a spare with me when I'm at the track and the rebuilt stuff from autozone, advanced auto, napa, etc is crap. The best longest lasting one I've had was a genuine GM new unit. A close second was the couple I had rebuilt locally. Buy 2 of the cheapest "lifetime" units and hang on to the reciepts. Good luck.

Radar Love by Golden earing.

Also check the idel air control valve.

Check is in the mail........Finally

THe fat wire out of the alt. sends current to the battery. The smaller wire that plugs into the alt. is the sensing wire. It tells the alt. when to charge. On my harness, I have only one wire that goes to the plug. There are provisions for 3 or 4 wilres in the plug. You only need one for it to work, I think it is a white wire on my my harness. The others are probably for an idiot light on the dash.

My shafts were for the Q45 diff conversion. They were about 300 for the pair but that was about 10 years ago.

Moser will make custom shafts. Send them one with the dimensions you want it to be. I've had a pair made. Worked well.

I dropped the first L6 I built. Luckly my leg broke the fall and the only thing that broke was the spark plug that broke off in my inner thigh. It pulled right out. I hope your motor is OK. Let us know.

Sounds like with the frame damage, (bent rails) I would pass reguardless of how rust free the car is. Motors are easy compared to fixing frame damage.

I hope you get to post up pics of the adjustment mechanism. I really want to see that.

I'm using a tilton 34 inch master. Bolts right up and works fine.

Now that is funny stuff Pop! Sounds like a lot more thought was put in to these than I gave credit for. I also would like to see a pic of the adjusting mechanism. I look forward to more info on these parts.

It looks like the inner nut is welded to the control arms. If that is the case, it looks like you would have to pull the spindle pin to adjust the camber. Or the nut is welded to a sleeve that is inside the control arm tubing and the whole sleeve will be turned by the inner nut. The set screw would hold the inner sleeve in place after adjustments are made. If that is the case, I'll pass. I think a high horse power Z would eat that set screw in short order no matter how large the spherical bearing is.

You can get to the grand canyon in a couple of hours from vegas. Make sure you stop at the hoover dam and do the hard hat tour. It is awesome

I've been aouund since it was the V8 swappers forum. Used to google V8 swappers and would have alot of stuff about wife swappng. Spouse was not happy! Glad the named changed. Best forum on the net, great guys and a ton of valuable info.

Put a winch on it. It is a hole lot easier to winch a broken car on the trailer than have several guys push it up. I speak from experiences, several of them.....

Mine is from a 93 TA. and lt-1. Speed density no mass air. 383 now with head and cam package, heads ported and polished, hooker block huggers, alot of other stuff I've forgotten. Dynoed at 425 rwhp and similar torque. I beat the crap out of it at the track. Still can't keep up with jt-1! I'm on the third clutch since the engine rebuild. If I fry this one, I'm going to go with a tilton tripple disc. It won't be street friendly but it won't slip either. Pics here. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=10667

You can also have it edited out of the pcm

I used auto zone type parts of the first few times for ball joints and tierods. Each rebuild was after a season of open track days and was necessary because of excess play in a ball joint or tie rod. The last rebiuild, I used nissan parts from courtesy. I'm on the second year now and all parts are fine.

I used the lockar cable