mark

If the car is as rusty as it sounds, maybe you need to find another car for the V-8. Not trying to be an A$$.

Again, just my feeble mind but I really don't think gravity can bend a crank. I'm sure things get bent when stored but I bet they are dropped or things dropped on them.

I know nothing about this but my feeble mind can't understand how gravity would bend a crank. I can see it falling over if stored on it's end, especially in my cluttered work area.

The money you spend on travel and shipping will be less than you would spend to pay someone to repair the rust. Continue to be picky.

Have you done a compression test?

I let my wife drive my car. It spit out a half shaft! She's still paying for that one.....................

Excellent advice here! Walk away.

Bart, It sounds like everything is functioning properly. If you have no codes then I would think it is either the tune or it is mechanical. It should be fairly easy to try a different pcm, even with a stock tune, you could make a determination about you stumble. If you use the stock tune on you motor you obviously don't want to hammer on the car too bad. The knock sensor would pull timing and keep you from melting a piston but still use some restraint. I had a similar issue for a while at high rpms. At 5200 the car would fall on its face. Turned out to be valve float. Easy fix but I'm a slow learner and it took a while for me to figure it out. One other thought, I remember when I started my swap, some guys were already using the mass air equiped cars and were having problems with stumblling caused by turbulance at the mass air sensor. I'm not sure what you,ve got from you filter to the sensor but you may want to try a few different configurations of ducting to the mass air sensor. If I remember correctly, the problems was related to the air taking a sharp turn just before the sensor. Good luck. The offer stands.

Not stock, about 425 hp and torque. 383 lt1. Similar numbers, tune is great.

I've got one sitting in my basement but it has the spacing for the rear mount that is wider than the R-200 diff cover.

Bart, I've got a 93 pcm in my Z. Will it fit the 94 harness? There is no mass air but if the plugs to the pcm are the same, I'll ship it out there for you to give it a try. Just send it back in a day or two.

How old is the optispark? Do you still have the vent line from the passengers side valve cover to the intake? This was my source of oil into the intake that quickly fouled the O2's. Are the throttle blades clean or carboned up? This will cause a hard starting issue and a stumble. Hope you get this fixed. I loose sleep over crap like this.

If the flairs stay black, keep the centers polished. If the flairs are painted red, go with the black centers.

Sorry, very sorry to hear. I can't believe this guy is still in business!

Try arizona z car

Add a set of relays, do a search for headlight relays. Your lights will be brighter and it will solve many of these issues. You may still need to clean the contacs in the switch. Clean the contacts with some contact cleaner spray even if you do the relays.

You might want to post the 2+2 specific stuff on Zcar.com. Those door pannels look pretty nice.

I think you paid too much. You are going to put alot of time money and effort into a car that will always be a rust bucket.

An autocross is not about horse power. Driver experience is the biggest factor on an auto cross course. I've done it for years and have a buddy that has a 90 hp VW rabbit that will wax the course with me in my 400 plus rwhp Z. You name the car and he has probably embarrased it on an autocross course.

I'm sure the price will go down as the number goes up. Let me ask when I go pick mine up. Another consideration is trying to find what length halfshafts work for this set up. Mine and Tom's are slightly different. There may be axels already out there will solve this situation.

Tom paid 500 for his but they put his axels together. I'm hopeing for a little less. I think a crack habit would be less expensive!

I was typing with my toes

I have some useful info on this. I have an r200 and 82 zx cv halfshafts with AZC rear control arms. The arms are adjusted fully in. They are as short as they will go. My half shafts would just fit with the control arm horizontal to the ground. I think that is the position that puts the shafts in there most compressed position. It was very difficult to put it together. Seeing the redbird almost go up oin flames because of cv binding issues, I consulted Mayolives and he very generously shared his solution. He had shorter shafts made. I took my parts to the same shop that Tom did and my stock shafts were about .25 inches shorter than the shafts Tom had made. It appears there are different lengths of shafts floating around out there. If I could lengthen the rear control arms about .5 inches I would be comfortable running these shafts. Wheel offset prevents me from doing this. My new shorter shafts will be ready soon. When I pick them up, I'm going to see if they have any other of these type axels there. My shafts would work with stock control arms with out binding.

Mike is right.

Jay, Nice ride!! Look foward to seeing some track video.