mark

Thanks for the links. Maybe next time it goes, I'll tryn to pull it apart.

I'm on my 3rd T-56. I would be interested in this also. I'll watch this thread.

I just figured you were sampling the latest home distilled liquor and surfing at the same time.

With that one in you stable, I can see you thinking, "Now do I take the Z or the slant nose or the ugly fast bastard to the track. " I won't try to buy this one out from under you!

What pad are you using in your calipers? The pad compound will make all the difference in the world.

I've been there before. Just a different name and a very long time ago. Look at it as money spent on tuition to the school of life. Don't let one bad experience ruin a great hobby. Just learn to do the stuff your self and next time, find a guy that is recommended by several local guys or several on this board. Don't sell you project, I'm sure some one on this board has an L6 that was running when it was pulled out only to be replace by who knows what. And if someone on this board offers you a deal, get some feed back about them before you buy. Most are great guys but as always, be careful who you give your money to.

I think these have an "imobilizer" on the ignition circuit, the last time I looked and its been a while. Check the fuses with a multimeter. One fuse of some incredibly small amperage controls this circuit. I can not even see the filiment in the fuse much less tell if it is blown. If this fuse is blown, nothing happens when the key is turned. A screwdriver from the pos and neg terminals on the starter will still start the car if the key is in the on position. Good luck, that is the total of my BMW electrical system knowledge.

That was the best $400 you will ever spend on a car! What if you would have bought the car from those pics? Can you imagine paying full price and unloading what you saw from a car hauler?

If it's been sitting for 2 years the fuel in the carbs ahs turned to varnish. Spray a little starting fluid inthe carbs and crank it. If it fires, your problem is in the fuel delivery, probably the carbs.

try putting that battery in the car.

Brad has the solution, dirty electrical contacts.

Sure,Give me a day or two to get a pic.

If you don't have a battery in the car that jumper thing will not turn the starter under load. You've got 75 amps, read the cranking amps on any auto battery. In the hundreds. Put a battery in the car and try it.

Thanks for the education. I've only delt with r-200s and they go straight in. Good luck with your project.

Mike, Are you sure the link works to contact the poster thru the add? I never got the pms you tried to send me.

This pic makes me wonder.

Am I missing something here? Are you trying to install the ring gear like it shows in your pic? Or is that just for a comparison?

I didn't see any car parts?!?!?!!?

Randy, Sorry to hear you got laid off. I'm near charlotte NC. Nascar is big around here and the surround towns. Also look at Raleigh NC and columbia SC. All have thriving diversified economies. I'm sure there are lots of places like this throught the country.

If you can't afford to bend it or worse, don't put it on the track. I like the idea of a track car. If you bend it, you still have your driver.

mark, do your milano's have provisions for 5 pt harnesses? i'm in the older [45], tall [6'3"], lean [175 lbs] crowd and in addition have a herniated disc [in the waist area] so i'm looking for new seats. the old recaro's just don't cut it anymore. need something; low, light, narrow-to clear the main hoop for the autopower cage and most important-comfortable for the old back. some track days, auto-x and daily driving combo... I do use a 5 point harness. The seats fit me well. 6'4" and 200 lbs. They have pass thrus on the back for the shoulder belts but no provision for a crotch strap. I just run it up in front of the seat. The seats were a tight fit in the car.

Tom, I hate you are having problems. You should have some play in the axels when they are installed. I'm running CV's but no those. If the CV's are like the 280z's one CV end is fixed and one end allows some in and out movement. If you are bottomed out, you need to find more travel. I'm sure you know this. Hope you get is figured out.

When you say race seat, I'm thinking of an aluminum seat with some sort of thin cover, maybe some form fitting foam inserts. THese seats fit like a glove. You wear them. You don't adjust you driving position,(easily) it is set, you can't move around when your left but cheek goes numb. If I'm in a street car that I drive regularly, this is not my idea of comfort. But for a track driven car you can't beat a purpose built seat. I have sparco milanos in my street driven 240 and they have some adjustability but have much better support than the stock seats. Something along those lines are what I (jmo) think works well in a street driven car. But I'm also 45 so that has alot to do with my decisions. So to directly answer your question, I think the answer is I'm old.

If this is a street driven car, do not get a race seat. It will get old very quickly. If this is a track car, try these guys. http://www.butlerbuilt.net/customseating.html THey will make a seat to fit you and it is not much more that a kirkey. THey did one for me and it is the first time I have FIT in a seat. I'm 6'4" and skinny also.