Dan Juday

Yes in deed. Just like all of us other guys here have done. LOL tt's only problem is that he has "premature" scope creep.

Finished installing it today, works great. Take note that if you are using the Taurus 2 speed fan and want this controller to operate both speeds you will need another single pole double throw (SPDT) relay. This is because you don't want to send power to both speeds at the same time or you can burn out the motor. If anyone is interrested on how to hook it up just post here and I'll explain it. Not difficult at all.

Nice pics Charlie! If you still have it together take a measurement from the center of the crank/harmonic balancer to the top of the crossmember and we can have a definitive answer on what'a lower, MSA or JTR.

Just a heads up for anyone interrested in a nice adjustable thermostatic fan switch. I found it at, of all places, Pep Boys. I never shop there. I'm embarrassed just walking in. All that ricer stuff. But....this is one nice piece. It is made by Hayden, part#3647. It has a temp probe that mounts in between the fins on the radiator. It has it's own relay built in good to 40 amps, the inline fuse that comes with it is only 25 but that can easily be changed. It can control one or two fans. With two fans it stages them on as needed. It has an A/C override wire to bring on the fan when A/C is on. And you can choose whether you want the fan to stay on after the engine is shut off or shut off with the ignition. It's setpoint is adjustable from 90* to 210*. And it's very compact, about half the size of a pack of cigarttes. All this for $39.95 I don't have mine completely installed yet (got to go to a wedding soon) but I'll let you all know what I think of it's performance when I get a chance to test it.

My wife thinks it's a disgrace. I say, Yaaaa Baby.

Naw, can't be too hard to do. You want a T5 out of a late model V8 f-body. The later years were the strongest and are designated as World Class. Kind of a grandiose designation IMO. Follow the jtr book as far as hooking up the clutch except the part were they tell you to use a 3/4" MC. Don't do it. Use a 7/8" and everything works great. Anybody want to buy a barely used 3/4" master cylinder?

First off did this T5 come out of an F-body V8? And second, no, your Datsun clutch parts will not work. The jtr book covers the T5 install pretty well except for one glaring error. You need a 7/8" master cylinder, not 3/4" as jtr specs. There are other options though. You can use a hydrulic throw-out bearing instead of the slave cylinder. Dave Greimann has covered this several times before and I'm sure he's getting tired. So, for Daves sake, do a search for T5 clutch and you will find it all covered very completely. Good luck, and be sure to read all the archives on the T5. Lots of good info to bring you up to speed.

A lot of people have been talking about this lately without any definitive answers. It seems to me that a year or two ago all this was hashed out with clear answers as to what bolts to what and what you need. I know many people here have swaped the R180 for the R200 in the '70-'78 Z's but none of them are piping up. I'm pretty sure all you need is the diff and the mustache bar as long as it came out of a 280Z. If it came out of a ZX then there are other things you need to change. Sorry, still no definitive answers.

I remember that. I think several companies made similar toys with different names. Pretty sure the Big Wheel came out some time before those.

All other things being equal, or seemingly so as you stated, I would think it would take a dyno or a time slip to tell the difference between .2 litres. Gearing, tire compound, a little indigestion, can all have an influence on a seat-of-the-pants evaluation.

Oh boy, are we going to have that electric vs. mechanical fan debate again? Spoke with the neighbor last night who told me he turns off the electric fan on his circle track car for the last two laps for that extra bit of power. I'm with Jim. If what you got works now don't mess with it. Somebody here has a great line in his sig, "With every modification there is an equal and opposite malfunction"

Jon, If you want to do the ZX swap I have a USED pair of calipers and rotors you can have for next nothing.

Make sure you get the VATS box as well. It's about the size of a pack of cigarettes and is buried in the dash. And get the key. Measure the resistance of the pellet and buy a resistor of the same value (or group a few together like I did to get the same ohms). If you can't get the key there are only about 16 different values and the JTR tpi/tbi book has the list. Just try them one at a time until the injectors fire. If you don't want to buy the book just let me know and I'll look it up for you.

I was on ebay this morning and saw you can buy Corvette engine covers to make your LT1 more visually appealing. Now if some creative fellow could change the letters to say Datsun.

1320 is right. My motor is rated at 230 stock, maybe I have 250 with my minor mods. The torque is high though at 300 ft/pounds. Not a high reving motor either, 4500-5000 tops. If I had it to do over again I'd go LT1. More power, aluminum heads, tune it with your laptop. The tpi looks alot sexier though.

It's an LB9, not an L98. But some have found it inspirational.

Nicest V8 280ZX hands down, Dave Greimann. He is very helpfull with advice too. Lives in SoCal so no hands on help though.

Call a driveline shop in your area. When I brought mine in with my driveshaft to get it shortened the guy said that it is a common part that he could get for a few dollars. He laughed when I told him it came in my jtr kit as a "custom" adapter.

Yes it is true. You need one out of a V6 f-body or a V6 full size van. I used the JTR lower mount and the GM upper mount with the rubber isolators. The GM mount required some trimming with my chop saw, took 15 minutes. My upper mount came from the larger radiator. I just chopped out a section in the middle.

I think Fly Yellow is gorgeous on a Z. Check out strotter's car, nice. As far as the ZG flares, I think a dark gray would be a nice contrast to the yellow. Something along the lines of black chrome or the color of black pearls. Whatever you chose paint the bolts the same color as the flares. You don't want to be known as the guy with the polka dot car.

Nice to hear your pushing ahead. Sometimes a few bucks to the machinist is better than searching for the right part. Good luck, and how about an updated pic in your sig?

How hard is it to do this? What type of equipment is needed? Or can I take it to someone to do this for me, and how much $?

Thanks guys. I did the resistor trick with my tpi motor so that's no problem, just get the key that went to the donor. How about tranny swaps. If I find a '95 that came with an auto and I want to put a T56 behind it can the ecu be reprogrammed to ignor the park/neutral switch? I have this problem with my tpi. I have left the the P/N wire open/ungrounded, but when the motor is cold, before going into closed loop, the idle hunts. I'm not certain it's because of the P/N wire, just suspicious. It isn't that bad, maybe 200-400 rpm, and it doesn't last long, just annoying.