Dan Juday

Or just buy the PDK brace and bolt it in. It does almost exactly what your plans are.

Eh, I showed that to my lawn. He ain't scared. "Bring it on!", he said.

If you find a diff with the moustashe bar aft of the vertical suspension supports you can be reasonably sure it's a R200 unless someone had swapped it for a R180 in a previous like. This would be highly unlikely but it seems you find some strange stuff at the yards, Phil. Your front diff mount will work just fine. Oh ya, be sure you grab the bar too. You can modify your R180 bar but if you can get the R200 bar for a few bucks more it's not worth the effort.

Mine came out of '91 Firebird and it should be exactly the same as the '90. When drilling out for the 1/8"npt very little material is removed. I know you said you already checked but it won't hurt to check again. I would NOT drill it out to 1/4"npt. Removing that much material will significantly weaken the connection. If it breaks while stopped in traffic in gear with the clutch depressed the results could be disastrous. If you've triple checked and it still wont work I'd toss that junk yard bone and find a new one. Who knows, maybe you've found some bizarre hermaphrodite non-OEM replacement slave.

All good advice. But if none of that works just wait 'till the house sells, take some of the money, and pay someone else to work on it. If you pick a good guy the car will be done. If you pick a loser you will have all the motivation you need to do it yourself.

Welcome to hybrid. I've never heard of one. There is a guy here that sells a crossmember to mount the FoMo. Do a search for Alsil, Al Silvera. He lives in Washington now I believe. There are several others here that have done the SBF swap as well. May not be as simple as the Chevy swap with a kit but all the help is right here from guys that have been down that road before.

You paid $500 for it, forget about it. A $500 car is suppost to have a little knock. Drive it 'till it drops and consider the money well spent. Then go find another $500 beater. I once put over 5000 miles on a Subaru with a serious knock. I pulled the motor and rebuilt it ONLY because two guys could pull it without renting a hoist and the total rebuild was less than $70.

Yup, what Stevie P. said. Their headquarters are in Phoenix AZ.

Fess up. That IS you, Alex.

Well, that's a long story. Short version: It ain't working. Likely the relay or triac or whatever type switch is used in the ecu is kaput. Hours of troubleshooting and no results. The ecu will fire the #2 fan relay but not the #1. This controller was a cheap quick fix. Plus, if I want to fool around with water temp for tuning purposes I can do that now very easily.

Hey, here's the hook-up. You need one single pole double throw (SPDT) relay with contacts rated for at least 35 amps. The relay has five terminals labled: common ©, normally open (NO), normally closed (NC) and two for the relay coil, ground and +12vdc. Hook up the Hayden fan control per the instructions except for the two power wires that go to the two fan motors. Connect the wire for fan #1 to the C terminal on the relay. Connect the wire for fan #2 to the +12vdc terminal on the relay. From the Taurus fan you have three wires: ground, low speed, high speed. Different year fans had different wire colors so you have to figure out which is which by testing with a battery or checking with a Ford dealer parts guy. Connect the low speed wire to the NC terminal on the relay. Connect the high speed wire to the NO terminal on the relay. Connect your grounds from the fan and the relay to a good clean spot on the chassis and your ready to go. When the controller energizes fan #1 power goes throught the relay to the low speed wire on the fan. When the controller energizes fan #2 the relay is energized and switches the power from the low speed to the high. Connected this way the fan can never get power to both the high and low speeds at the same time burning out the motor. Hope this helps.

Not a Nissan efi expert. You mentioned that power goes away while cranking and returns when the key is returned to the on position. Could the problem be in your ignition switch?

Welcome to Hybrid. Are you asking if body parts will interchange within the first generation ('70-'78 ) Zcars? If so, the answer is: Yes. No. Sometimes, depending on if it is an early or late version year model. It depends on what parts you are talking about. You mentioned doors. Although all first gen doors look the same on the outside there were several changes on the inside and latch mechanisms. A MSA catalog can be very helpfull. If the cataloge numbers match you can assume the parts will. Sometimes different parts will work. For instance, later front fenders had liners and the fenders have mounting holes on the inside for them. If you have an early car without liners you can use the later fenders but not vice versa. That help?

All beer jokes aside, I'm interrested in insite from others that have done this too. When the car comes back from paint jail (bodyshop #2) the rearend and brake upgrade is on the agenda. My stock bushings are in good shape. I don't want a bunch of squeeky bushings and I'm not going to be road racing. Do I really need to go through the hassle of changing all my stock stuff over to urathane(sp?)? Are there a few that should be done that aren't a huge hassle requiring special tools? I have planned to upgrade the moustashe bar bushings with the R200 swap. But other than that do I need to upgrade any other bushings in the rear?

Here ya go.

74 lbs. Yes I did. Uff.

Same size rims I'm running. Tire size and selection for 15" wheels is deminishing as rim diameters head to the stratosphere. I have 265/50's front and 305/50's rear BFG Euro TA's. The 305's are NLA. 295 is now as big as they go. I think BFG has since dropped the Euro line. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Just an aside about IRS cars. My driveshaft came out of a Corvette and the splined part of the yoke was a good inch shorter than the one out of the Firebird the motor came from.

Sorry, modem here. But there's a company here in Rio Vista that drives real cars by radio control all the time. Company's called Barrier Systems. Yup, you got it. They make those concrete road barriers for bridges and highway construction. Every so often they have to crash a big car or truck into them to prove to the customer or the government agency that they work. Sounds like a fun job, eh?

Well, nobody here likes billet wheels. But if you have no problem with them Billet Specialties has very resonable prices on semi-custom wheels. You pick the design and spec the bolt pattern and backspacing and they show up at your door. They also have no problem with 10" wheels on four lugs like some other wheel companies. I wont name names but their initials are Centerline. Opps. Check out their GT series wheels.

"The ideal driveshaft length will place the yoke about 3/4" from bottoming out in the transmission." JTR 7th edition page 6-2. My driveline guy, who is now deceased, made the drive shafts for the original Scarb kits. He said 1". I think as long as you have a good bite on the output shaft of the tranny and have at least 3/4" for the motor to move rearward on a hard launch you should be fine. JTR says that they have seen the motor move rearward as much as 3/8" on drag race starts. I hope it's no more than 3/8" because thats all the clearance my dizzy has to the firewall.

I spoke with Michael Johnson (sp?), the owner/creator of the black roadster, about those headlights. He said that he got them from some aftermarket company, not an OEM item, and he couldn't remember where. The car is even better in person. The fenders are fabulous. I grabbed John Washington and drug him over to talk with Michael about a posible partnership. Want to see a kit of those fenders? E-mail John and threaten him with money.

Dude, you live in Stockton. Your 40 minute away from the best custom Z muffler man in the biz. Call Bob at Rio Vista muffler and tell him what you want. 707-374-2484 You will be very happy and the price is right. Tell him your a HybridZ member and get a discount. He hosts the annual NorCal HybridZ Show & Swap.

Oh yea, that's bent. Being fiberglass that's not going to straighten easy. Personally I'd pass.