buZy

And hub axels.

Good Question...Here is mine. Not a approved Fuel Safe. A 12 gal Summit racing fuel cell which is a red steel box with a black poly inside and inside that slosh foam. The cell sits in an aluminum sheet and angle boxed tub which acts as a structural frame member similar to the spare tire tub. Between the alum box and steel cell is 1 inch of fuel proof foam. For some additional safety from a rear end collision 1 1/8 square steel bar is welded to the unibody behind the alum box. Also behind the tail lights alum is used to tie the rear lower hatch flanges together and to the floor and 1 1/8 square bumper bar. When I built this there is a fuel safe that will fit in the tub but I would loose a few gallons and the cell was not cheap. Doesn't matter as I am not to build a spec race car. Just thought I would post what I did as maybe to help you out.

Looks Good!!!!!

Maybe a little lean but they look good. I really don't know the proper burn. Are you running a MSD? Something with power to the plugs when under boost? Just a thought.

Question: Roughly how much power does that particular SR20 put out?

dj paul I agree. It is more real to build it yourself than having someone else built it and but claim they did anyways. Good progess keep going. BTW that cell cam rocks. What phone did you use?

240hoke. Nice car! To me you have the coolest zcar on hybridz. Classic.

Ouch dude that way sucks. I am really sorry that happened. Women drivers.....No survivors. I constantly see women driving on the cell phone. It's scary! On top that they have 5 billion of other emotions going through their head all at once. Us guys have many too but only one at a time...hehe Driving with emotion is a bad combination. Makes perfect sence why very few, if any, of them can ever pilot winning race cars... I would have slapped her.

EDIT: Glad to heard you added an upper mount. Can you post any pics?

Nice Job! Turned out kickass!

How does that song go?....."if it makes you happy, it can't be that bad."

Wow! Nice Work! Looks Pro!

Ok I have been hearing on Hybrid Z about Illumina struts destroying from springs rates exceeding over 250 - 300 lbs?? I have been thinking about this trying to figure it out. I don't see how it is even possible given the weight of an average Z and typical suspension movement. Can someone explain it? I'll sit back and listen thanks. Brian

Did you do test to measure how much available vacuum the motor has? Check test the booster... even though you just replaced it. Check test the check valve. They should both hold vacuum for quite sometime after the motor has stopped running. Check all connections. I just did this actually last weekend. The system held vacuum over night with out dropping a single inch point.

Wow! Ok cool idea! Now I feel dumb guys I didn't figure that one out before. It seems somtimes the simplest of ideas are so easy over looked. I will try disconnecting one of the end links and see what happens. Almost scared to see what happens. Personally I prefer a slight oversteer loose feel when the car is in full drift. Grew up in MN winters where you learn to corner with the throttle when the front tires almost become useless braking on black ice. To this day I refuse to buy a front wheel drive car for that reason alone. Anyways... With how stiff the rear is the front really works well in reguards to changes being felt. Hard to explain it but the rear is so stiff it feels like once it does give way at higher speeds it will do so without warning. I don't trust it. Hope all my settings up front will not alter too greatly once I unbind the rear bar. We will just have to see. It would amazing if I could just ditch the bar and not have to spend a dime. I never get that lucky. FWIW...The front stock 240 bar is small measures .725 in diameter. Would think if I ran a rear bar it would have to be even smaller right? And if so, to what effect would it have being so small in diameter? Why are all these aftermarket sway bars so huge? Maybe for unique situations in racing ok, but the major market share is guys like me just doin the street thing.

Do I need to run a rear sway bar in my 240z? This is a Street Car....(but keeping in the idea of a well handling Z) I ask for the one in the car now is a 280 forward mounted style and who ever mounted it was a complete idiot... Sorry to put it that way but it's so true. It binds and I think as of now its doing more harm than good. The pivot bushings last no more than a few hundred miles and it makes a ton of noise. The rear suspension is so tight/stiff and does not respond to changes compared to the front. I noticed my stock 71 oem service manual show no signs of a rear sway bar. But it seems some early 240z cars had a rear mounted sway bar mounted to the two downbraces for the rear suspension pivots. Correct??? Or is that wrong? Could I mount one there and still have it clear the stock z half shafts? Also have it fit between the r200 lower horz brace and M-bar? (see pic) It's hard to put this problem into words. I know every car is Different to say the least. I post this thread because you can see in the pics I will have to CUT OUT the sway bar to remove it from the car or cut the frame..... Not good. I don't know how to resolve this problem. Any help at all would be great. Thank you all. A list of parts... Car is set 1 inch lower than stock ride height. Adj coillovers 225 Front 10 inch / 250 Rear 10 inch Illumina adj struts. Non sectioned with good bump stops. AZC front CroMoly Arms typical. Front LCA pivots up .750 only Biscut street camber plates all 4 corners. Stock 240z front sway. Stock rear arms with Poly bushings. AZC billet M-bar r200 from a 78z open diff.

Wow looks really cool I really like it but... I like to question things. To be bold and study this more not to offend feelings, just positive conversation here. Could more structure be added underneath or in front of the finned cover closer to the rear arm pivot points? Make a piece to join the two smaller clamps. If so the sway bar brace could be made lighter then. If possible this lower structure could have dual exhaust pipe cresents for clearane that would look cool. To share the loading of the bar and pivots now in one mount up higher with less dimensional span I wonder if the rigidity is that of stock datsun.

Not to highjack the thread but I was just reading the posts... I have adjustable Illuminas with 300 rear and 275 front springs. So is it true then these springs are to hard for these struts to function right? This is street car. If these are too hard what would be a good spring rates for the street? 250 front 225 rear be ok?

EDIT: http://www.designproductsracing.com/Z_Suspension1.html http://www.designproductsracing.com/images/DPR25.jpg

While I am at it replacing the brake booster... I carved up this piece out of brass. Though it does have weight compared to alum I can't ever see this design failing with out warning. What I like best about this design as it does not rely on the fasteners to steer the car. The only thing I often wondered about rack to firewall dimensional changes and or flex. It appears the early Z has an upper u-joint sliding engagement into the collum that would allow for such slight movement. Correct? The later models I am not so sure about. My 78 280z parts car was different in this particular area with the u-joint to steering wheel length fixed. Maybe it does not matter. If someone could chime in on this that would be great. Brian

The Mallory Comp pumps work great. Run the 110 model which requires no regulator. They have other versions. Runs very quiet and very dependable. Make sure you have a good fuel filter before the pump and a Clean fuel tank. Over a short period of time debris will destroy and seize these very precise pump rotor componets. I learned that lesson the hard way. The Blue Holley pump. Had one. It worked fine but man it was so loud even fully rubber mounted.

I might be Wrong .... But I think you if remove your interior rear hatch panel and just slide the lock retaining clip free from the lock assembly. The lock will then pull out of the hatch from the outside allowing you to work the latch mechanism with your finger and open the hatch. Good Luck! Brian