buZy

FWIW...My Z is from West Palm Beach Florida and I live in Minnesota. Unrestored s30 cars dont even exist here anymore! Like gone! I also have 78 280 Minnesota parts car wasted and rusted solid. Like Prieth said "a night and day difference". Sometime back I inspected the pivot bushings for wear and found the spindle pins to be some what new recently replaced. Since the car is jackstand racing all summer (ouch.. updates coming soon) I tried to tap one out with a light hammer last night. No movement. They look very new but they are sure in there. Willing to bet the previous owner didn't have the brains to antiseize them as John mentioned. That is a really great idea! Maybe they would come out unharmed but one never knows. When the bushings do wear old an option would be to cut the arm and just replace it all with the MM part. But cutting those OEM arms just feels very wrong too! A karma thing. Brian

I'm looking at both but dont want to go through the horrors of removing the stock spindle pins. The MM part appears like one could sacrifice/cut the stock arm off, retain the spidle pins, and install the MM part....I know risky. Anyone ever try this?

Nice job on the pipes. Looks sweet!

I'd say find the seat you want and mount it from there. Chances are you're going to have some minor fabrication issues with what ever you come up with. Good luck! Brian

You mean like this? 240 shown

I would go carbed. Less weight hassle and clutter.

I just so happen to run 17x7's on the front. All four corners actually. 17x7 with a 4.5 backspacing with coilovers. FWIW the car is 1 inch lower than stock. The strut housings are not sectioned yet. Stock fenders no rolling or trimming or tire rubbing. They fit fine even before making the front end adjustable. The rear is stock geometry with coilovers and camber plates only. All stock hubs and brakes typical. 17x9's the rear? 17x8 more like it. Did you make a flat board offset tire/wheel templete to check the full rotation at your given ride height? It's easy to make and the only way to really know what you are getting into with, your particular car, rather taking my advise or anyone elses. My general thoughts on wheels is if you fit them close you may run out of room for chassis adjustments down the road. Hope this helps and good luck! Brian

Hey Phil, More cheers and beers. Your car turned out really great!

Yea I revisted my angles a few weeks ago too. The lasers really help locating the trans tail stock left to right. The other plane can be double checked with a digital angle finder as well. That's how I did it. It took a couple hours to mount the beams but only a few mintues to line everything up.

Awesome install! Sounds healthy!

What type floor insulating material is this? What is it composed of? Where can I find such a materal? I am redoing my floors and thought this stuff might be a proper selection, if made for this type of application. Any thoughts or sugestions would be great. Thanks Everyone! Brian

Hot ride Chelle

FWIW I found it a little cheaper through Summit but have to say it still is expensive $$$ for just a switch and a can of spray oil. There must be a fun factor cost not shown in the ad. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=smoke+screen+kit&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115

A 110V plasma cutter is another tool you might want to consider.

Aluminum SBC all the way! How about well tuned carbed LS2. Now that would be cool to see how it is done, the right way.

Motorsports won't get you close enough for every car is different. Check out Petes pages and measure to see if you are close. http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm If you have not done this before it takes a bit of research but its not that hard once you figure out the 2 basic paralell axis attitudes and the 2 related running driveshaft angles. Look at this way doesn't cost any bling to just jack up the car and measure to see what you got. No special tools needed just an angle finder and some creative ambition. Good Luck! Congrats on the first drive! Brian

heavy85 I had the same sound and the bearings were the only items left to question. Just like yours they felt smooth and tight too. I say that old time hod rodder is right on the money. Bearings can be worn yet seem ok when inspected. Glad to hear you figured it all out! Brian

A good paint job and no risks.

Front pinon or m-bar mount maybe. Make sure to check the diff mounting locations for movement. In gerenal the front pinion raises up under load and that maybe the noise you hear.

Oh My a carbed LS2! Man thats nice! I'm jealous! Drop that in and get er going......wow!

Alright! Congrats Bryan!

Did you set the driveline angles?

Had a similar sound awhile back at part/neutral throttle. It was the axel hub bearings but I see you checked those already.