buZy

Welcome to Hybridz! You can do a search for just about every subject here.

Man that car looks hot! Love the color and motor.

Hearing groaning noises and sticky shifting added up to $1300 in repairs. Ouch! The photo shows where the countershaft drive end broke and 5th 6th reverse worn syncs. The guy said it was lucky the broken piece did not smoke the whole gearbox. Who ever build the car it is safe to say the trans went though abuse in past, along with many other things. Posting as to ask the question is this a common failure area? Not to worried really as I don't do drag launches or road race the car. But still very curious as maybe someone with greater experience would know more about this. Thanks all! Brian

Do you have to pull the spindle pins to install these arms? Brian

I run the Mallory COMP 110 pump with NO regulator. It is not need for this particular pump. The pump is a factory set 7 psi. Maybe that is your problem? Just a thought. Brian

Oh man owwwwwie! I would have.... killed that guy!!! Looks like you will be ok though. Sorry to see that happen.

Very nice! You got it for sure. Thanks for sharing the information. Brian

Yes looks good! Last time I did this the one looking down from the top of the car (vert) was very hard to measure paralell compared to the side view (horz) shown in your drawing. How did you do it exactlly? Just 3/4 over and its paralell to the pinion shaft using JTR mounts? I just ask as my car is not JTR mounted.

The 327 is around 360 hp but I don't road race the car and never do drag style launches. As always Thank you John and Terry for sharing your vast wealth of Z car knowledge. Brian

Wow! Looking good!

Again, Please excuse my very low IQ. Go easy on me here. Ok I searched. Found much but mostly just about how easily 240 rear stub axels can fail and horror stories. What's a myth and what is real is always the question and is why I posted. My 71 240z has the stock stub axels. I also have a very rusty 78 280z parts car. Can I just basically switch the stub axels from the 280 to 240 with no other parts involved? If so... is it worth the swap in strength gained? Or better yet does anyone make a stronger aftermarket 4 lug stub axel? I only seem to find the stronger ones in 5 lug conversions. I just would like to avoid a very costly mistake and do the right thing here. Thank you all. Brian

Cool for sure but $875 and can't be adjusted on the car. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=68&PHPSESSID=94399f62cdd74eb91d5f71df85cabfb6

Here are some brackets..... but I would go long pump for more custom a/c options. http://www.marchperf.com/csb_brackets.html

This is kind of cool. http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/honda.php

Man that is cool! If it's ok to ask, what springs and sway bar are you running?

A pvc works the cleanest.

Kick ***! Looks really cool!

MEK may cut it down to the patina surface you desire. It's mean stuff but you could try small test area and see the effect if any.

I have the hooker long tube Z conversion headers. They fit great and do not hang low. Don't see many recent conversions using these. I wonder if they are still available? I don't know how all that relates to motor mounts as mine are not the JTR type.

Yellow Rocks! Ok 7 years of art school and designer in the automotive biz for 10 years. I would paint the front and rear spoilers yellow and go with the black stripes. If you like stripes in my opinion having them uninterupted in color works best on the eye. Trust me, You will be glad you did. What ever you choose it is going to be really sweet!

Rusty tanks. Can you find a clean one somewhere?...... It will cost about the same in the end.

Looks good! Can't wait to see the new paint. What color?