buZy

That vid you posted months ago. Tires Blazin'... Way Cool!

My worst one was when I rebuilt a AMC 401 quite a few years ago in a 71 Javelin. In short I used the wrong rags cleaning/assembling the motor. Very short lived. Rag lint clogged the oil pick up destroying the cam and everything else. In less than hour of first start up it was toasted.

Researching to switch steering wheels. The one pictured is a Grant 12 inch grip center diameter. Feels way too small for the road. Want a increaed size but what diameter works best in a 240z? Something with wood grain and alum? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Ok finished putting eveything back together and ran the motor.... Final Status: Motor runs better than ever. Power smoother and more even. The noise heard before is now gone. All valves inspected running like they should. Tested in 93F heat today and drove it for a few hours. Looks like it just turned out to be only an adjustment issue. Better safe than sorry. At least now I know more about the motor than before. Thanks for the input guys.

Project Status: Measured cam-OK. Took apart and cleaned out lifters on 1 3 5 & 7. Set all valves at 3/4 turn and used blue loctite on the jam nuts. Everything looks good so far.

Yea I know.....Gives me nightmares at night. Killing my motor would put the Z down for I don't know how long, years. Like I have 3-5 grand on tap at all times. Not! OK keep the faith...Right now as we speak I am checking cam lobe lifter heights at the push rod end with no rocker. A 10yr experienced GM mechanic friend told me to do this. Did cylinder #1 tonight for a baseline test. This takes a lot of time even with a proper dial gauge setup. Switching between IN and EX I could repeat the numbers within .002 max tolerance. I hope my measuring like this will be 'tight' enough....? Anyone care to weigh in on that would be a great help. Also check all push rod lenghts, clean out with air. Next rocker stud heights and fitment. Broken valve springs. Lifters I never got the story on fully. You can have a bad lifter inside take it apart and it looks fine. Said they are very high tolerance when it comes to bleed down rates. I know little about any of this stuff. Also said the lifter face could look normal but you could still have a cam lobe going flat and not know it. That is why I am checking the cam.

Should add that all the lock nuts were in place and not loose when I did the teardown. Its the type of locknut with the allen screw in the middle. I just found inconsistant lifter plunger pressures when preloading them and thought is this ok or are these lifters shot..

After hearing what seemed to be valvetrain noises decided to check valve adjustment. Here is what I found inside. Status: Hydraulic valves, No roller cam. Roller rockers die cast style. Alum heads, guide plates. No major wear on lifters or cam. No broken valve stem springs. No metal or debris in motor valley, heads. It all looked 'good' and clean. Did find intake #3 preloads VERY easy. Too easy I think. Could crank in all the preload by hand untill the lifter bottomed out. The others felt much more harder almost solid feeling and could not preload them by hand. What I mean by hand is turning the rocker stud nut with my fingers only. #1 intake and ex felt kinda soft but only half as much. I know this is hard to explain. Something is making noise. The noise has been going on for quite sometime now. Approx 800 miles. And is not load sensitive. This (#3 IN) lifter was on the drivers side of the motor. The side making noise before teardown. Question: Do I have a bad lifter or lifters? Can I replace all the lifters and still retain use of my existing cam? All lifters have a part number on them it reads... 99277 I'm far from motor savy but know some engine basics. Enough to know I have a very bad feeling about thi$$$...... Any help would be great. Grumpvette are you out there? Thanks!

I am sure its safe but.... Looks like you have to keep the suspension on to use it. Bet it works great for some kind of racing/pit situation. Portable too.

You can do it mike! Sounds like a blast! ..Giver'

Hey Brandon. After doing searches here.. I did go with that flex extreme 180 fan. Just had to resize the shroud to fit my rad. The shroud height was perfect but length was a bit too long. Also did notice you can feel it hum in the car too. It's a good fan!

180 xtreme fan full shroud mod cap housings , 29-27 on the rad 21-19 on the motor. flush rad 180 stat expanision tank water wet status: 1 hour idle holds 193 @ 87F in sun expansion tank remained empty. no coolant loss

I think...mine's an old scarab setup. Use of hooker long tube headers for Z and still fits under stock hood.

I recently saw some materials used in marine industry. Stuff to absorb sound and take engine heat too. I would imagine some what water resistant as well. Don't know what it is but it looked like space age foil with closed cell foam laminated. Light wieght too. Probobly expensive but looked like very high quality stuff.

Sweet dog!

Hey cool swap! May I ask what kind of seats are those? They look like leather!

They are all jealous of that Z for I can't see a six cyl beating it, ever! Cool Car!

Those rims and tires are really cool! Always thought about doing an LS1 240sx. That would be a sweet hybrid swap.

Nice install Dale, Looks Sweet!

Hey John, Ground Control sells generic stops in few different sizes. That is what I used actually and cut them to fit.

With your spring backed off or removed check the compression of your strut. If the strut housing gland nut hits the spring seat, you need bumpstop. If it doesnt hit the spring seat and bottoms in the cartridge, you need a bumpstop to prevent internal strut damage. Check suspension travel and cut your stop length to about the last inch of motion. Every case is different, but that is what I did and it worked out fine.