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Not to criticise anyone either. I spent time neopreme rubber mounting the exact same rad recently. On side note: An old time rad shop guy told me these particular rads are not so great. If you look closely the core is acutally glued to the expansion tanks. He continued on saying the glue hardens and becomes brittle with time. Once a leak starts in this area the rad is toast. Needless to say I was really happy to hear that. Don't know if I fully believed him but he does make a point worth consideration..

Fumes?? I got em too unfortunatly... BRE Rear deck and unknown lower spoiler. My hatch does not fit perfect. I don think it matters the spoilers under 60 mph, the fumes would be there anyways. Getting everything sealed the best you can is about the only option really. Venting the cabin too. The Z has sexy lines of Art but not built in wind tunnels. A fair mount of vertical frontal area with low pressure over the rear hatch glass I read once. Who knows?? The serious race cars had spoilers. Bet Paul Newmann didn't breath fumes. The BRE spoiler was not easy to fit right!! At all! A complete joke. It took Considerable mods to get it to fit. Mine was the 2 mounting bolts at each side of the hatch as decribed above. The mounts sucked and were unuseable. Deck shape and gaps to the body not even close. If you go with this one be ready to do some body work. Out of the box I was dissapointed with the so called fit. All it does is gives you something to work with. Far from bolt on. Maybe others had better luck but just my 2 cents worth. One a side note: 3M VHB tape (yes tape!) available these days would have no problems at all holding this part down. With proper surface area say 60% of the BRE outside footprint you would never be able to get it off the hatch even if you wanted too. 3M also provides a solvent to remove the tape and it is clear coat safe. The stuff is awesome. No, I didn't tape down the spolier. Made 5 inside blind mounts and drilled the hatch. If I were to do it over again... I would have no problem or lack of confidence taping that sucker right on.

Cool thread! Have been reading all the posts and learning quite a lot. This website is the best place on the internet. Ok here is what I found out over the weekend... The booster check valve is good. The booster on the other hand does not hold vacuum and needs replacement.

Ok I see...Thanks. Could I use one of these or will I have the same problem Terry talked about? The booster is starting to look like the way to go.

Ok what is a "Dual 3/4 masters with a bias bar "?

I think T tops with a V8 kicking would be way cool! Do your sub bracing mods and you will have a bitchin' ride. If you re really pumped on the car get it.

Yea Looking good! I like the carbon dash panel and starter button.

Ok did a search but did not find what I was looking for. Can I run the AZC standard 240z front and rear brake kit Without using a power brake booster? In other words... Can I adapt a larger master cylinder that uses no booster? Is this possible? Or ever done? Like for a race car? The reason I thought if my motor has low vacuum I could build my brake system to work with the car. Thanks everyone! Brian

I found this electric booster from summit. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/ssb-28146.pdf

The Cam. A Very good question. I dont know? I didn't build the motor. The guy I bought the car from did not build it. And I could not find the previous owner. Cam and ignition timing are all correct. Checked those before in the past. Valve guides might not be perfect but the motor does not burn oil. About a 1/4 of a quart in 2500 miles. Doesn't smoke on start up or under deacceleration. Inside the engine is really clean too. Compression checked out good. All even @ 135 psi. It's a good motor from what I can tell. The carb needs to be jetted on a dyno but it should not make that big of a difference anyways. Intake gasket is very new too. No leaks. The cam must have a great deal of overlap I guess. Really screams all the way to 6700 rpms. Did some more testing tonight: 15hg/in @1500rpm. 20hg/in@2000rpm. Thats with the pvc too. The pvc system doesn't change the vacuum charactaristics like I thought it would. Seems what ever the motor has for a vacuum measurement it does have a lot of capcity to hold it reguardless of a few leaks in the system like the pcv. A mechanic told me you need 15hg min for the brakes to work properly. Told me to install a canister. Said the canister will hold vacumm using a one way valve. So if I create 20hg/in at 2000rpm it will hold it in the can when needed. In 6th gear around 75 mph I run 2100rpms. This of cousre will be a different throttle opening resulting in less vacuum. Under deacceleration with a closed throttle the vacuum is above 20hg easy so that should help. Close call for sure. We will see if it actually works in reality. A speed shop guy told me someone sells an electric 12V vane type vacuum pump for the booster if needed. Anyone ever heard of that before? The Good news: Through testing I discovered my pcv system works great and I can keep it in operation. It's effect on the overall vacuum capcity is next to nothing.

Ok update: Looks like my motor pulls 8 Hg/in of vacuum @ 1000 idle rpm. That is with everything plugged too. Pvc and brake booster are the only accessories I have. Can someone tell me how much vacuum is needed to run just the booster? Or with a pvc and booster? If I had to could I change cams without pulling to motor and doing cam bearings? Or do I have change bearings to change the cam? How often is this done with success??

There is no smog inspections in MN anymore. X gov Jesse Ventura (yes the ex hollywood pro-wrestler) put an end to it years ago. Besides the car is a 71 and last time they only went back to 1975 like in Cali I guess. Ok when I blow into the hose side the air flow is stopped 95%. A slight bit still gets through. When I blow into the valve cover side the air flow is passes through unrestricted. What does this mean? I removed the valve itself from the alum housing. It appears to be a cartridge type valve insert. In it's natural free state the check valve looks neither fully closed or open. It's hard to tell exactly upon close visual inspection. When I lightly shake it I hear a rattle noise inside and feel somthing moving inside the cartridge. I'd just run breathers if I could find ones that didn't make an unreasonable mess. Anyone know of a good one? Power is not an issue. Having the motor run right and the power brakes operate properly is. Maybe my power brake problem is something more going on but I figure start with the vacuum basics first.

Is it Required that I run a PCV valve on my engine for normal street driving? Could I run just a standard breather on each valve cover instead? This particular valve I dont understand. When I remove the hose/valve assembly from the motor and apply suction on the hose end with my mouth (yuk) simulating maximum motor vaccum at idle it just draws unrestricted open air. So to me (being dumb as I am lol) it appears like a big vacuum leak. Is my valve shot? I'm having trouble with my brakes getting vacuum. I don't understand the theroy here at all? Now if the valve closed when I applied suction how could it ever be opened by internal crankcase blow by with a breather on the opposite valve cover. Im sure these valves have purpose but I dont understand them fully. Maybe this is a dumb question.

Found out this part is no longer available from Nissan. And the u-joint itself can't be replaced.....

I wrapped my starter with one of those heat blankets. It worked actually solving the typical hot starting problem...

OK I checked the steering u joints. The lower one at the rack is good tight and soild. The upper near the firewall is worn and needs replacement. A couple of quick questions before tearing into things. What is the best method of removal? What should I pay attention to during the removal and or installation process? Where to source a replacement part? Looks like I will have to 'drop' the steering collum to slide out the inner shaft conneted to this joint. Is this correct? Again, Thanks Everyone! Brian

Sounds like a great motor!!!! What is the displacement?

Did mine 3/4 up a while back. Moly arms with joints. From what I can remember at 3/4 up the stock LCA will have interference. You may have to grind some off your LCA to get clearance. Measure. Know what material you may have to remove before relocating.

Hi Mike. Like everyone else I can't wait to see the final finshed product. Question: Your mounting the MSD inside/under the dash ok. Are you still using the stock heater core/box? Or ditching that too for weight savings? Or using one of those aftermarket hot rod electric ones? I live in MN and still have yet to use my heater. Just wondering..

Way Cool Ride! With v8 240z badges and the engine location is this an original Scarab car?? If is, ...I think its worth more than the average hybrid in similar condition. Could someone here chime in on that. Nice find!

Or like that front intake hood scoop on the new vette Z06 version? Just a thought... Hey by the way... Where did you get that front strut tower brace? Did you fab it? It looks really sweet.

Looks Good! Really nice work there Bartman!