buZy

Just to add more here....With that 2 5/8 element I have a 1 full inch clearance to the stock hood at the top of the wing nut which is highest point on the motor. So you might get away with a 3 inch filter with a true flat low cover? I never tried it.

No choking. Motor runs just fine. Tested it with and without the aircleaner many times and I can't tell the difference in power. I do agree with more HP that element may be come too small.

DP products part number 204-1070 No cutting or hacking the car Cheaper than azc But more expensive than msa Only works with 2.5 ID coilover spring though...... These plates and those msa parts are the only designs I have seen that don't hack the car up. http://www.designproductsracing.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=513

msa mounts 14 x 2 5/8 element with typical drop base air cleaner. stock hood

.....The strut and LCA are only connected through the outer ball joint, thus the LCA can rotate without the T/C (neglect any friction in the ball joint). This is why it is critical to have a setup where the T/C rod controls the rotation of the LCA (either through a clevis or hockey stick). Joshua Joshua, I now that I see that way you are correct indeed. The TC controls the rotation.

Hey Darius! Sweet Z!

Nice work by the way Austin! Yes it looks like too much freedom movement of the LCA. Here is another solution. Take the TC rod you made and just replace the LCA rod end with a clevis. You will have to alter your LCA mount to a tab about .38 thick. This might be easier than having to thread down an old Z TC rod. Also maybe more importantly the clevis design allow the joint to pivot ever so slightly as the pick up points are never 100% perfect through the suspensions travel. Now that I think about it more you need to have the clevis to allow caster changes with out causing binding between the LCA and TC rod.

What is a good custom sway bar source for a 240z. Maybe someone who is particular to Z cars in general? Or a source that has knowledge of AZ car front adjustable cars? Thanks everyone! Brian

...and while i am at it..

Now that is a spit! Yee Ha!

Cool beans! Thanks again! Saner website is very good info. After seeing that I can understand what you are trying to describe. Are you running the same Z bar listed on this webpage? Early Z? Is that a 1.125 diameter bar?? Brian http://www.sanerperffab.com/prod01.htm

Think I know you what you mean. Yea pictures say a million words. Your set up is a bit different than mine as my stock roll bar has no hemi joint rod ends. Just a stock bushing mount typical. It is offset from the lower LCA mount. Not directly above like yours. Your set up sounds much more ideal. Where or how did you make or find a roll bar to fit these LCA arms? Or are you running a different LCA arm? Thanks for chiming in.

Thanks... Have a 240z stock bar right now. May switch it out later after testing etc. I like the idea of the U shaped bracket capturing the bushing. Then what, run a link straignt down perpendicular to the LCA? In mild steel how thick should that bracket material be???

Lots of M E K and scraping.

Way Cool Blues!

Me too. Adjustable in which way were you thinking?

I'm rebuilding the whole front suspension. This is a street car.. for the most part. While building I have been researching options and ideas. So far I have raised the LCA .750 and have installed AZ car adjustable arms. Koni struts too. Now I am interested in camber plate ideas... Purchased the AZ camber plates too. That kit is super and all very good high quality designed stuff. Just to be clear here in no way here am I trying to say bad things about AZ car. I just dont feel comfortable welding to the stock body. My Z is painted already and I would not be able to install them properly. Afraid of burning the fender body work and paint. So I am thinking of other routes. Have seen the Ground Control plates. They look great and have seen many use them but who knows how much critical structure they cut out and if they have stock hood clearnace etc. Also at $300 a piece they are an expensive risk. So my current idea is to use the AZ camber pivot and the create my own plates from there. Basicaly a .375 thick alum plate from underneath and a .125 thick alum plate on top. This design would 'sandwhich' in between the existing shock tower mount and still have stock hood clearnace. Also doing this mod as it allows me to rasie the upper coilover spring seat in the car. About 1.25 higher than having the coilover seat stopping close the stock rubber donut spring seat. This should allow more room in between the strut body and upper spring seat when lowering the car. After laying all this out in CAD with about 4 quater 20 fasteners holding the plates together my adjustment range is about .300 inches in each direction. To me .300 inches of travel in each direction is not much. But maybe its a lot with my adjustable arms, I dont know. Here is a rough sketch layout so far. If some of you expert Z road racers could chime in here that would be great.

That is a sweet Z!

Those look really good. Great idea. The arms I have are also left and right hand threaded. The rod end has the left hand thread. It is possible to change the length without seperating the main ball joint. What design are you running for the sway bar link?

I have no idea how old those msa mounts are. Rough guess would be somewhere in the late 90's 98-99. That's all I know. I never had the chance to talk the guy who originally installed the motor. Have they changed there mounts recently? If so why? I'd call msa and ask them. Would enjoy hearing what you find out. Keep us posted.

Yes I agree with Tim. It is hard to tell what those headers are on Ebay. Here some pics of my Hookers installed in the car, msa motor mount and ground clearance photo. These paticular headers I have fit very well with no mods at all. With this set up the stock hood latch had to be remounted. Hope this helps you.