buZy

Anyone know of any good books/manuals for DIY Holley 4150HP carb tuning techniques? Thanks in advance! Brian

Looks like a good product! You could sell these! (I smell a future group buy.) Very Nice work!!!!

I thought these were interesting and to share them with you all. http://www.shadetreemechanic.com/michelin_new_tire_design.htm

The learning continues......go easy on me... Ok installing a wideband in the Z tomorrow. The motor, a 4150hp/holley carburated sbc 327 roughly 370 Hp @6400rpms, gasoline, manual T56, 34 degress total advance. (aka 10 before TDC on the dizzy). Have a couple of questions on basic a/f set-up and hoping Grumpy or someone with similar vast experience could chime in. Ok here is the wideband and pic of motor. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM%2D3378&view=1&N=700+ 1. What is a safe realistic average fuel/air ratio to shoot for when doing future engine tuning? (idle, part throttle cruise, and WOT) 2. The gauge has an adjustable display range lean to rich. What air/fuel range should I set this gauge? 3. Another feature is logging the leanest fuel/air at WOT when using a typical grounded nitros throttle switch. A flashing display alarm feature for setting the leanest fuel/air ratio under WOT to prevent engine damage. What would be an ideal setting to set this alarm at? Thanks everyone....rock on HybridZ! Brian

Alex, Thanks for the gauge pod information! Derek, Thank you for your business! We supply the covers to MSA.

Does anyone know where to find one of these that fits a 71 240z? I checked with motorsports msa and summit with no luck. Any help would be great. Thanks, Brian http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D20804&N=700+4294907666+4294905605+115&autoview=sku

All that is soooo cool!...And expensive exotic $$$$... So the big loaded question.... What is easily available on the current market, the best bang for the buck /quality vs user performance that will operate on a 1st gen sbc under 500hp AND will fit under a Z hood? (have I gone too far this time?)

Even with out a gas gauge I run a 12 gallon on the street and running out of fuel is never a serious issue. At 15 mpg on the freeway (327 t-56) that's quite a few miles between stops. Myron, Nice fuel cell fab job! If you change your fuel lines are going for inside the tunnel or underneath the floor pan? Mine is still in the tunnel oem style aluminum 3/8 but I always wonder what is the best or most often used racing solution? Tunnel/oem safe from road debris but not from an exploding driveline. Floor pan safer from driveline failures but more exposed to road debris. Inside the car is no no, but I find it interesting the way you have it ran now its somewhat safer from both these conditions. Using spec steel line would be safer than typical racer thin aluminum reguardless of the route taken. (and don't someone go there saying saving weight with aluminum line matters haha, non factor) Nobody is safe.

Any rack movement?

... More like make sure you install your lug nuts!

Nice work Gabe!

Blown77Z, Yes I had the same issues when re-setting DS angles in my car with updated larger ujoints. The previous owner poorly installed a front facing 280 rear bar in an early 240z?! Go figure. So needless to say I cut it out and eventually went with a rear facing bar. If your DS angles are golden, go with a rear mounted bar. Or is it possible to shim a 280 bar to get some clearance? I am not familar with the 280 frame mountings. Hi Dale, You might be missing more from no rear bar. I was running no bar too for a long time and handling was fine. Installed one later and the high speed straight line stability 100 plus was the huge unexpected improvement! The only thing with rear bar is the finned cover which to me is not worth extra effort to run on the street. Disclaimer, I'm not an expert lol.

No, but it's great information to fit unique mounting options. Thanks dr hunt!

"11's?"

Nice solution!!!!

Very Nice Indeed!!!!

How about the rack mounting isolators? Any movement there?

Wow Dave, Great Car and Video!

So if one sections the struts, it is possible with a tire narrow enough to clear the fender lips, the tire could bottom inside the fenderwells/uinbody structure before hitting the strut bump stops??? In essence typical 1 to 1.8 inch sectioning in most cases requires fender flares to obtain some more gained travel from sectioning? I kind of thought that was a possible situation on my ride when lowering 1.25 inches. When I checked the full suspension travel there was not much room left in my opinion so I did not section. To me it seemed pointless. Not to mention having the tires kill the front fender lips at full turn/full bottoming. A common very possible curb situation of street driving. All 17X7 4.5 BS, 225/45/17, Non sectioned, coilovers, early Z, DP biscut plates, no flares. Many factors.... Forget everything I said, I am just thinking out loud, Sorry to hi-jack the thread. Back to your local broadcast station...

Mounted mine directly centered behind the m-bar and ran the line up the tunnel in the oem location which saves it from most road debris. But if the driveshaft, trans, clutch or flywheel ever explodes it's a petro ball of fire for me indeed. Remember seeing a hybridz member a few years ago run the fuel and brake lines inside updated frame rails. To what success I do not know.

A small simple tool box. Custom sized mounted and intergrated into your interior finishings. And it would be cool as hell! In the real world of driving a heavily reengineered hybridz on the street, having just a few simple tools in a kit can really be helpfull. How many times have we all been stuck on the road kicking ourselves saying "Gosh, if I only had a pair of pliers and screwdriver". And some kind of fire bottle system similar to this.