Hugh

You didn't seriously post a question like that, did you? I tHoUGht YoU wErE JoKiNg.

Un-freaking-believable. Back over you own kid, and then plaster on national news telling the country you're an idiot?

never thought of that before, good advice!

Thats pretty cool!

Sears wanted ~$70 for the bolt type set, I paid $70 plus shipping for the hydraulic one on Ebay.

I think its hilarious that car that was worth like $50-500 only two or three years ago is now worth like $3000-4000! Freaking Initial D cartoon making Japanese people think the Hachi Roku is the #1 drift master... and then Americans following suit several years later. I remember my friend owned one of those piles of crap like ten years ago, and it was the worst car any of us had driven. That same car is probably getting drifted somewhere now. Oh, but love the cars in the pics, nice stuff.

There's a good media twist on a story. "Removed her blouse" Do you know what that means to military people? That she was still wearing a bra and a green/brown/or black undershirt under that "blouse" which is what we call the camoflage shirt. Gotta love the media twist...

Problems like a trip the hospital...

It doesn't get THAT cold here. I'm using an Optima as well. I'm trying to imagine if the contacts in the distributor or the coil itself or something were cold... but thats not going to happen after the car has been running for 20+ minutes... It did feel like what happens when the spark blows out.. but a lot of things can feel like that. (lack of fuel, obviously) I was leaning towards a fuel problem.

Why would the ignition only fail when its cold?

According to the guy who made the LM1, he says you should mount the O2 sensor at least 18 inches past the turbo. We tried tuning an SR20DET with the sensor mounted right behind the turbo and it read crazy readings... we had the car all out of whack until we realized the sensor was getting too hot. (800+ celcius) The LM1 needs the RPM sensing cable to read RPM, without it, you can only datalog voltages and A/F. You don't need the Aux Box ($500 thingy) unless you have an old school engine and no sensors built it. My favorite thing about the LM1 is the outputs. They are PROGRAMMABLE to anything you want them to be within 0-5volts. I haven't seen any other wideband on the market that does this. That means you can display your A/F with any device that reads voltage. You can hook it up to a $30 A/F gauge and tweak it to read dead-on accurate. You could also just output to a voltmeter, like I do. I use the Apexi turbo timer which displays O2 sensor voltage. I programmed the Lm1 to read A/F correctly on the Apexi timer, and no need to put anything else on my dash. The box sits inthe glove compartment, and never comes out. I run the other output to my Tec3 for datalogging on there. In friends cars, I've hooked these up using the RPM sensing cable, and datalogging A/F, RPM, MAF voltage, Boost, and TPS. It works great for tuning like this. If you don't need all these features, hold out a bit and get the new model thats coming out... it will be the stripped down version and very cheap by comparison.

I bought my hydraulic spring compressor off ebay for $70. It was well worth it, considering the amount of money that shops wanted to charge me to swap springs for me. I don't like those bolt type compressors, they scare me just as much as no compressor. Chasing the thing around on the floor isn't fun. Oh, and the bolt type without an impact gun is just not fun.

I've been wanting to make a card that says "Slower Traffic Keep Right" for a long time now.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm looking for the ultimate in cheap fixes... I don't want to invest any money into this setup that won't be needed later. (I'm going SR20DET when my motor gets here from Japan) I will get out tomorrow and take a good look at the carbs, and follow all your suggestions. I also plan to change the fuel filter. Someone else told me it could be my aftermarket intake and header doesn't route any heat to the intake...

I'm a bit south (quite a bit) But I'd loan you my hydraulic spring compressor if you were local.

Most I've seen in a street NA SR20DE is still under 200rwhp. Supposedly when built for racing like the TODA setup, it can make a lot more.. but I think that would be very expensive to accomplish. There is the Autech SR20VE, which is supposed to make over 200hp, but I haven't seen anyone actually do it... they're still under 200hp.

LOL Where was the Christian God when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor? He was teaching people that the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor!

A lot of people will disagree with my on this post, though.. so take it for what its worth

Nasty, nasty, nasty.

Holy cow... that goes above and beyond.

Next thing you know, we'll stop teaching our children the history of slavery in America because its demeaning to black people or something.

Photobucket is excellent.

A lot of those guys were beer brewers, as well... so this country was founded on religious freedom, and beer. Then they had prohibition... Funny country, I tell ya.

Wow, thats been killing me for a couple of weeks now. Thanks for the tip!

You mean the sealed beam replacements? No. I'd definitely go to an H4 conversion... and then you can run the Silver Star H4 bulbs in them if you wish.