Bartman

They look great! Go to the store and look at the tires your thinking about side by side if you can. Once I decided I changed my mind when I went and looked at them. You bought rims that look good, now make sure you get tires that look good on them.

Since I switched to the eBay 16" fan my engine was running quite a bit hotter. I think the Taurus fan pulls more air and has a bigger shroud to pull air through a larger area of the radiator. My choices were to fab up a better shroud or to make some minor modifications to get the Taurus fan to fit again (of course, this is assuming that the cooling fan was the source of the problem). Well I chose to try to get the Taurus fan back in, and it didn't take as much work as I thought it would. The engine runs much cooler now. The engine was showing well over 200 degress before and now it's running around 180 max. So the bottom line is this fan is good, but you really can't beat the Taurus fan for maximum performance. P.S. - Anyone want to buy a slightly used electric fan?

I looked in my FSM, but I couldn't find any mention of a power steering pressure sensor. If it has one that sounds like it would be a good possible solution. I found somehting else in the FSM that may work. There is supposed to be a +5 volt reference at the AC evaporator sensor. If it's not present the AC clutch is supposed to be engaged at all times when AC is requested. So if I'm understanding this correctly all I have to do is find an AC evaporator sensor and hook it up without the +5 volt reference.

I appreciate the reply, but thats not quite how it works. The AC request tells the PCM that the AC is turned "on" and the PCM will adjust RPM and energize the AC clutch output only if certain criteria are met. The criteria have to do with coolant temperature, evaporator temperature, battery voltage, engine RPM, and AC system pressure. The problem for me is the PCM has no idea what the evaporator temperature or system pressure values are. Remember my AC system is a Vintage Air system and it monitors these items itself. If I can program in values for the evaporator temperature and AC system pressure then I'll hook the input line to the AC Request B1 and take the output from the AC clutch control. D8. Then the engine will adjust engine RPM before sending the signal out the AC clutch control output.

I have a complete Vintage Air installation on my LT1 equipped 240Z and it currently is not connected to the PCM. I would like to somehow let the PCM know to increase the RPMs when I turn on the AC without having the PCM check everything else (like AC pressure and temperature). My system checks everything else on its own and has a safety switch already installed. So I'd like to wire in the AC request feed to the PCM without connecting all the other AC lines and still have the PCM think that it can energize the AC clutch. P.S. - I have TunerCat

I did some more research, and my LT1 alternator appears to be a CS-130 which probably puts out either 100 or 105 amps. This is the max, so it puts out considerably less at idle. The most common upgrade for these alternators is to switch to a CS-144, which can put out 140, 170, 200 or more amps. You can also upgrade the stock CS-130 to put out 140 or 170 amps, but it may be better to just get the CS-144 which should bolt right up and use the same connectors. I'm going to call these guys Monday and see what they have to say. http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm

I have a Taurus electric fan, an electric water pump, electric fuel pump, Air Conditioning, etc; and I'm using a stock LT1 alternator (which I think puts out 140 Amps or possibly only 124). I'm wondering if I need to upgrade my alternator to say a 200 Amp output. When I'm running with everythying on, I don't think the alternator is putting out enough juice. I'm just running the stock Amp gauge and it looks like it's losing charge when everything is running including the lights. Could this be possible? How can I now for sure, a new alternator isn't cheap and I don't want to get another one if I don't have to.

Here's a link to a webpage of HybridZ member Jeromio's website. http://240z.jeromio.com/newwheels.html He has 17 x 8's without spacers on stock hubs...though I don't know if you can still find wheels like he has.

I'm going to assume you're talking about these from MSA:http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/WWC19/25-1051 These wheels are the type used on Honda vehicles. You can get the same (or very similar) spacers to what MSA includes with their wheels from ModernMotorsports http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=5db112fda4b6d25b6ce66dff3860aa53 As Ross lists at the Modern Motorsports website site you can now buy pretty much any Honda wheel. You will have a better selection this way, and can probably get a better deal. I'm using Ross' adapters with aftermarket Honda wheels and tires from Dicount Tire. I'm using Konig Theory 17 x 7 rims with 225/45-17 tires. You could fit an 8" wide rim with coilovers, but the rims are harder to find and more expensive.

That doesn't look like a JTR setup...is that a Scarab mounting position? If your not familiar with JTR, here's a link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html The JTR setup moves the engine further back and down than the Scarab mounting position. Did the previous owner give you a picture of how it looked with the engine installed?

I have my small gauge wire connected to the ground side of a "charge" light with an ignition hot connected to the power side of the light. Not sure if wiring it this way would be any different than how you have it wired. I know that a while back my alternator went bad and stopped charging the system. When this happened the charge light always stayed on. I brought the alternator in to get it checked, and sure enough the alternator needed to be replaced.

LSx engines are great, but your not listening to this guys requirements. LSx engines will not be a direct replacement for an SBC, it takes a whole different setup. If you want a direct replacement stick in any SBC up to and including an LT1. If your on a budget, keep your options open and look around to see what you can find in your area. Get the JTR book if you haven't done so already, it will answer a lot of your questions including what to look for in a donor car or drivetrain. Aluminum heads will keep your weight down for your lighter engine requirement. After that it just boils down to personal preferences...carb or fi, new or used, etc.

Looks good Van. What are you planning on putting on the front? I would think you would go with skinny's for the funny car look, but you have flares on the front as well.

The hats came in a tan color as well.

PM Tim240Z; he's the one that did the last run of hats, t-shirts, and decals.

Although it seems like a lot of people on HybridZ are not into drifting...I like it. I've been to a couple of drift events and found the actual driving very entertaining. I've also watched some shows about drifting and the skill involved with keeping a car under control when it looks like it's not. That being said, I could do without all the other crap surrounding these events and shows to make it appealling to the younger crowd. As far as this car goes...I kinda like it. Not really sure, but it's definitely different.

I got the new O2 sensors delivered last night and I had them installed within about a half hour of their arrival. I didn't hook up my laptop to get a DataMaster log, but I took it out for a test drive anyway. The good news is that the O2 sensors seemed to do the trick. I drove it around for quite a while and the stumble never happened. I'm pretty sure the system is still going into closed loop, but I will make another test run while logging the data with DataMaster to make sure. Thanks to everyone for their help.

What fuel pump are you using? Can you move your fuel pump closer to the tank? Most fuel pumps are designed more for pushing fuel rather than pulling it. A return line could help as well, but I think relocating your fuel pump would be the best solution.

I relocated mine when I added AC using a bulkhead plate. Vintage Air has these plates for just heater hoses as well as AC and heat. www.vintageair.com/download/pdf_singles/57.pdf You could probably find something similar form other resources or just cut the holes put in grommets and run your hoses through.

I found the "Engine Replacement and Rebuilding Guidelines" from CARB http://159.145.15.175/StdPage.asp?Body=/geninfo/publications/Engine_Change_Guidelines-Jan_1994.htm I think that if your car is 75 or older you may as well just do whatever you want and hope you don't get caught. It's rather obvious that my car doesn't have the original engine and that its also been modified. If a law enforcement representative ever pulls me over and decides I need to visit a referee station I will be officially screwed.

Did you try MSA, they're pretty good about being able to find these type of parts. I'd give them a call and see if they have what you need (they have more stock parts available than they show online). http://www.zcarparts.com/

You can find all the rules online. Hre's a link to the section about fines: http://www.arb.ca.gov/bluebook/bb06/veh4200114/veh_42001_14.htm Sounds like is $50 to $100 on first offense, $100 to $250 on a second offense, and it doesn't say how much after that.