BrandonsZ

You have to lap them if you replaced the seats anyway so why not just lap them now and then if they didn't fix then replace them. Sounds like a plan and you could get prasctice lapping valve seats without worry.

Is that legal? Not paying you because you worked more than 80 hours in two weeks? I think you could sue successfully.

that's ripe for a snipe.

If they could build a car that looked awsome, was as safe as a Mercedes, the power of a viper, under 2500lbs, and keep the price to under 20k to boot... Well they'd take our business, but would the rest of the country embrase the car? Or would they only sell a few? 1. In order to keep the price down below 20k they have to sell a LOT! 2. In order to have the power of a viper you have to have the gas mileage of a viper. 3. In order to have the safety of a mercedes you have to have the weight of a mercedes. Due to today's regulations to make this car you'd have to have "other cars" that were especially efficient, especially low emmissions, and therefore especially crappy. So let's review 1. They are bound to sell cars that people want. 2. They are bound to sell cars that are efficient. 3. They are bound to sell cars that are safe. = They are bound to sell cars that are especially crappy.

I had my own bad experiance with internet dating back in 1995 when it was still hot and fresh, that girl sent me a picture of what looked like a 19-21ish cutie, and we talked over the phone a few times I (luckily) only called her from a pay phone and wouldn't give he my number. I met her at a resturant for breakfast and I almost threw up not only was she not 19-21ish she was not a cutie and she was like 300lbs! Her hair was not long and flowing it was short and ratty, she did not "look like that girl on the Rosanne show" she looked like ROSANNE! I didn't date anyone from the internet ever again.

I totally agree that Chevy power IS the best.

I got this out of a very old book... A good book. ...he rose his hands to heaven and proclaimed "Bring me torque and bring it early, yest I grow old in waiting for the turbo lag. Yeah for as long as I am bound by this earth, hevenly torque with a feather's touch beset me, O lord my god."... And thus beset the first instance of the tradition of exchanging gifts at Christmas.

Whatchu tizzle my nizzle, gotta be stizzle with the eizzle chizzle bizzle. Just kidding, I think the engine choice is quite justified and my hat is off to the gentleman.

I chassed that squirrel with my prelude for 3 months... nevert really got it. My NO was 950, cutoff was 850, previous cycle my NO was 990 and the cutoff was 1150. Those BASTARDS! After... New cat New O2 Cleaned and checked EGR I got 980. so I adjusted the exhaust cam one notch on the belt increasing the exhaust gas that was left in the cylindar, then it got 840. and passed. then I donated it to charity just before the next cycle, was burning lots of oil by then anyway. HATE SMOG REGS! It's just unfair to smaller cars that's all.

Why not LT1-TT? Best of both worlds. If you go EFI, go LSx, but now they have a carb setup for LS1 so why not go LS1 w/carb? I went LT1 for the personal belief that those parts are the most plentiful and cheapest. And I found that to be moderately true. However with alum block LSx and T-5 you'll be closer to original for weight, certainly closer than LT1 with T56. My next build will definately go LSx EFI N/A now that I've got the mechanics of the swap all figured out. I probably took 3 months off the project by using plug and play carb and that was also good.

Honestly, I had a similar experiance, when my POS honda preluse was stolen for the second time I swear it ran better, stopped burning 1 qt every 250 miles, and seemed to be missing that weird squeek after every right turn. It still failed smog though that POS! Donated it. Sadly, I liked that car it was very confortable to drive and had enough kick to keep you interested.

Yes I have a 150# tank and it's only under $40 to refil with 100% argon. Actually they just give me a tank and I give them my old one regardless of how much I have left in it.

Putting a resonator in mine turned it down from an obnoxious 95 dB at WOT to an irritating but not dangerous 80db. It was a 3" spiral core resonator the 3" glass pack I had originally did nothing... well almost nothing.

The ign mod on my F150 got hit by rad fluid coming from a leaking radiator. It worked only sparatically and the retarded computer pointed at the mass air flow sensor. It caused missing, and intermittant stalling, but never backfiring. I left the MAF sensor alone and replaced the Ign mod. Fixed. Backfire into intake: 90% two switched plug wires, - check, recheck, find a second source for info. I drove my Suburban with two swtiched plug wires for a week before I figured it out. The only simptom was occasional backfire and low power. Granted the engine was two steps in the grave. 5% Distributor system, carbon trail, cracked cap, rad fluid in the cap (don't ask) bad pickup for distributor (not ignition module). -with as much as you have put into this car, just get a new distributor. 2% two plug wires (neatly stowed and parallel for a long distance) are cross talking (inductive->Electromagnetic Leakage->inductive). -If it happens often, then you can try to unplug each wire one at a time and listen for it to happen, if it stops happeneing when you remove one wire in particular, reroute that wire so that it is routed an entirely different way, and recheck. This is really hard on the cat so do it cold. -replace the wires, then pull them apart so that they are inches from eachother in route and only cross at near 90 deg. This is almost never a problem anymore especially with spiral wound shielded cables. (MSD) 1% hot head due to carbon buildup causing deiseling as fuel is injected and intake valve is open. -remove the head and check. Very unlikely. 1% if you have a knock sensor, your system had computer controlled timing, the computer may be getting a spurious signal and tries to compensate by adjusting the timing way off for just a split second. -replace knock sensor. 1% gremlins, sorry, no known solution. Replace car or take it to your local grease monkey who will most likely plug in the computer, scratch his head and spout extraniuos babbling as his a** becomes itchy beyond political correctness. Then he'll have a soda and sit on his aformentioned a** or work on a personal poject until it's time to go home. No doubt his personal project will involve stealing parts off your car and replacing said parts with junk or garbage. The vampires at the service desk will charge you per hour plus a nominal overnight storage fee. Good luck.

My clock ticks off about 1 minute per hour, but I thought that was the result of traveling near light speed and time/space was warped. Go figure I could just re-lube it.

But I surely would never regret it, I did regret it about when the credit card bill showed up, but MAN what a pleasure to run and so nice. Now I prepair the welds correctly, take off the paint scale etc, but when I was practicing I welded straight through paint, scale, RUST, and grease just like it was flux! It just boiled off. Of course the weld strength will be adversly effected by such practices, in a pinch it'll still hold stuff together. After welding up the exhaust on my Z, I have used the welder about once a month since, I can fix anything and it's a real nice thing to have, even if you don't need it. There is one drawback however: 1. My father-in-law wants me to fix his aluminum rack. 2. My wife says I can "make" her a fireplace screen. 3. Friends think "I'll buy you a beer" is adequate payment for fixing their cracked exhausts.

98% Yes, or 2% cracked head. 90% I believe the problem is a leaking head, that's where oil can be pressurized into the water without water in the oil pan. (need a new head gasket) 9% the tranny fluid is getting into the radiator (need a new radiator in this case) 1% cracked head or block, in this case sorry dude.

backfiring (in the exhaust side) is an indication of unbrunt A/F mixture getting into the hot exhaust a clear indication of miss: You're not getting spark to all cylindars or intermittant spark. 1. Check plug wires, one may be grounding out. 45% 2. Check ignition module pull plugs see if any look different (if they all look sub par it might be a random misfire caused by ignition module. 45% 3. weak injector or stuck injector (you'll see the spark plug indicate which, no doubt). 10% backfiring into the intake is an indication of improper timing. 1. You have two switched plug wires 90% 2. Timing gear chain/belt dammaged or skipped. Your problem is most likely electrical, don't give up and don't hesitate to recheck something you've already checked, it's a slippery problem especially if it's intermitant. Good luck.