BrandonsZ

Tips (take them or leave them): You can buy no-retorque head gaskets, like from Felpro. Then you don't have to retorque. Make sure the head and block are scraped completely clean. (Dont use a wire brush on aluminum). Don't use compressed air. Keep particles off the pistons and out of the valve guides using rags, paper, or tape. Always torque cold. Better to buy new bolts now then to take a broken bolt out. http://www.arp-bolts.com If any bolt is rusty, streched, damaged or looks bad, replace all of them, and clean the threads in the block (run a tap lightly through it.) You should step your torque: say the torque spec is 60ft-lbs, first torque 20, then torque 40 then 60 through the entire sequence each time. Don't use a sealer on the head gasket. If you need to retorque (per the gasket manufacturer) then you can loosen per sequence, and retighten same as before. Don't go to the maximum recommendation unless you have new bolts. Just some suggestions that will keep you from a lot of extra work and downtime.

http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/tr-3550.html Try this site for high perf trans. I don't know if I got the jist fo your post but... I like your idea, but what about a simple stick that looks a lot like the current 4-5 speed stick, and when you pull on it it moves in and out of the gears. Not like an automatic stick that comes in the Z I'm not trying to make fun of you, but you could use a 5 speed stick, and set up the switches to click the solenoids... Say you want to be in neutral, well there would be a sensor that would sense the stick in the neutral position, then when you pushed it in reverse it would go in reverse but without pushing a clutch... Now that I think about it, this may have been done before. What about the look and feel of a 5 speed with an automatic, but nix the clutch pedal? I don't think I helped but, here are some auto links. http://www.fourthgearinc.com/Technical_Info.htm http://www.200raptor.com/ I'm still deciding on what tranny to pick, I'm leaning 200-4r.

Maybe there could be a standard responce for newbies? Like "please search before submitting questions". So when a newbie asks a dumb question, you could pm them the standard responce and delete the thread? Just a suggestion.

Hostility is running thick here , it must be that Christmas spirit I was hearing so much about.

Well, I could say something about a certain part that you are using (Holley) but... It's electrical, look for the answer in the electrical system, I'd bet money on it. Could be a connection, or the fuel pump relay. I bet the cutting out at high load symptom is just a red herring. I bet your ignition is the culprit or a ground to the coil or something like that. Check all the major connections. Your electric fuel pump needs power to run, if you cut below a certain voltage it'll shut off the relay. One fun way of proving the electrical system is hooking a timing light up to the coil wire and running the light somewhere you can see it flashing, and when it cuts out, you'll see the light turn off, then BINGO. Of course if you dont' find any electrical problems then, fuel filter, or check out that think you call a carb. Otherwise good luck.

Once again, your problem lies in the fact you are relying on a ford part (holley) to run a chevy engine (sbc350), they fight spiritually. Happens all the time, no harm, just replace that bad boy with an Edlebrock or Q-jet. Glad I could help.

I agree autoparts store monkeys sometimes have faulty equipment or training. If the equipment looks like they got it out the back door of a WWII surplus store, then question the results. Or if the monkey scratches his head and looks in a manual then maybe you might have a blown alt when he's done.

I see your problem, you are using a ford part (Holley), please replace it with GM eq. like Edlebrock performer 600 or Q-jet 600. Problem solved.

I had 3/4 cylinders and still had a poor idle, but didn't stall, but your comp might be over compensating, your compression is too low I think, it's a sign of either blown head, jumped timing belt or stuck valves? but on all cylinders my money is on the timing belt, if you blew a head it probably wouldn't blow both heads at the same time. Check the belt, and check the valve timing.

4.9l is reserved for the I6 300cid 4.9l ford. I get the whole renesis now, so they got more power by having the exhaust port earlier in the cycle and adding a dwell space between exhaust and intake which would allow them to tune without the handicap of the enhaust charge entering the intake chamber... however they are exahusting slightly sooner which you would think would take the last little push from the expanded gas out of the power, except the old overlapping handicap held them back further than this new "developement" because they had to tune to compesate for this exhaust mix to prevent overpressure of the exhaust into the intake which diluted the intake (less power) or over pressure of the intake (when using a supercharger or turbo) which dumped some fuel into the exhaust (higher emmissions) Sounds like a winner.

That's funny. But like a bad joke every time you experiance it it's less and less funny. I'm going to stop looking, now it's just sad.

Naaaaa he's hooked, she'll reel him back because she likes the turmoil. He's jumping right into her net, the only real way to stop this mess is cold turkey, which I fget from this string is porbably impossible with all the interaction of his friends. Sad part is she knows where you live and she'll come back. If not for any other reason than to be playing and to be told off again. You're in it deep now. But if I'm wrong then you'll both grow up eventually and may even remain friends who knows. It takes a long time to grow up sometimes, and soem people never do.

240zJake wrote "My insurance agent is a former z owner, had to get rid of it because the wife kept getting mad at him tearing it apart in the garage... " If you can't even claim the garage you don't deserve a Z! MY garage and my office are the only rooms I get, but those rooms are absolutley all mine and have nothing of any input by my wife. It's worked very well, but this kind of deal has to be worked out before you get married and before you own a home and every time she comes up with some "great" idea about redecorating the garage or office, you gotta be firm but true to your claim... Usually works.

But really... so testy. Certainly I know nothing but the basics about rotary, I drove three, one was in a mazda pickup (my uncle's) it was the dog of all dogs, then I also drove both a 1980 and a 1986 mazda RX7, (they were owned by a good friend) the 1980 was the 1.1L and the 1986 was the 1.3L (i think). The 1980 was a little faster than a 323 IMO, the 1986 was pretty quick and had a nice top end, and a surprising amount of low end kick off the line. But my 5100lb Cadilac kicked his stock butt. When it hit 120K it blew something wouldn't idle and had shavings in the oil, he drove it in that condition for about 4 more months and surprisingly it hung together. then he hit a street sign and sold it for $500 in 1994. However, it sounds like you have it all worked out, so in your case (aux) it will probably be bad ass! Good luck. Also it sounded like a jet engine and you felt like you had to plug your ears on the freeway when he floored it.

Obviously this guy has many of those turbines laying around and is putting them in every car he has.

They have a aqua injector that actually pushes water intot he engine, that would lower the combustion chamber temperatures and lower NOX somewhat. I don't buy it though.

Point well taken, I know they don't have "cylinders" I was dreaming of a reasonable way to make 8 rotor. so it would be like a v16? I guess? Ok so you can double the litres too that makes sence, so the 1.3L is really like a 2.6L 4 banger? So the 2.0 would be like a 4.0. I was totally off base, sorry. So I guess 4-rotor would be reasonable, but I really can't fathom putting a 2 rotor 20B in a Z. I know they're cool and fast but... I have nothing to base these comments on, I'm just shooting the breeze. So what could you get for 20MPG? Probably a B20 if it was set up right, but you could have had a V8. Really though you can't beat the Rotary for power density unless you go turbine, but then again the gas mileage could be measured in gallons per mile at that point. So for the lightest possible engine with the most power and you don't care about gas mileage then it makes sence to go rotary. But in a Z? I just can't...

Would they stop P**** Footing around sub 300hp production and come out with a 8 cylinder version of the Wankle for crying out loud! That would be insane! And please make it something like 4L + I can't take this 1.3L bs anymore from Mazda. Imagine a 9k redline on a 1000hp engine. WTF! Really, keep good gas mileage under 3-4K and then push it for those lazy suday drives. I'm sure there's some reason for it, and the bigger ones probably couldn't go 9k. Sad sad sad...

From the video, I think you could take him off the line, but he'll probably pass you within the 1/4 mile then take off the end of the drag stip like a runway, That would be cool to see while I'm freezing my B*** off on Saturday night.

I've been bragging to my wife that I'll have 20mpg when the swap is done... I was thinking a zz383 fast burn... (don't have the engine or the car yet, but very soon) now I'm thinking stock 350. I just don't want to deal with fuel injection, but all signs point to it!!!! I know I could build a mild 350 and get 20mpg, but... I really want a daily driver that drives like a funny car in acceleration, and a formula 1 on the turns, but gets over 20mpg. *THINKING REALLY HARD, BUT ONLY SMELLING SMOKE*

Yes Godfather, I feel a drill press is a good idea, but if you're going for a big one , why not go for a simple Mill, You can get higher speeds, and more versatility, and the simple upgrade of a translation table, you could do a lot more with it. Of course the cheapest mill I ever saw was $1500 from McMsater-Carr, but really they overprice everything. A cheap mill should be at least 3x better than the best drill press because of the side load rigidity design inherant in the mill dictates a quality hole.

Wow, it's like you're married, you two can't get rid of eachother. Why did god give us these stupid hormones! Then on top of it tie them to our emotions!!! Sad, sick, sad. Well here's something to make you feel better, your hormones eventually lose most of their potentcy, and life is a heck of a lot easier.

RED FREEKIN FLAG!!!

Yep, you're smitten. But dangit dude, she's a flame and your that crazy moth that keep circling. How many times do you have to be burned before you either give up or die, and she'll kill ya, no doubt. Yes, she acts cute, she's careing, she's nice, wouldn't hurt a fly, but obviously she's doing something wrong or you'd be together right now. She sounds like a taker, she'll do whatever she has to to get what she wants then drop you like a stone down the well, because she may think she wants you but she obviously does not, and you may think she can change, but C'mon dude THINK! I hope this forum has pounded some sence in you but I don't think so. You're so on the fence even the fence is tired of your numb butt! So get the heck off that fence and cold turkey that B***. Yes I'm p*** because I had the displeasure of this same kind of crap, and man it must happen to everyone sometime, whatever you do, DON'T get her knocked up and DON'T marry the B***. S*** Dude!!! C'mon!!! JUST THINK!!!! Yes she's pretty, but damn! Why must we be so dependant on those b****es. You'll know you've found the right one when she makes a compairable income to you, isn't a loser, and has a good family life. Do you want your family to turn out like her's? You're not going to save her. There is just the slightest chance, but not today, maybe when you're 25 you'll finally understand and please don't be married to her with kids! WOW! Listen to Dr. Laura or something dude. Dang.

But what if I'm ugly and already have a clean shaven face?