BrandonsZ

It's an air compressor, so you could play with the compression ratio of the engine and the pulley size. If you give it a slightly bigger pulley and increase your compression slightly, you'll get less boost, but at the higher end it'll have more. IT's not like a turbo though. This is probably not wise but you could lower the compression on your engine and then step down the pulley size of the SC and that will give more boost over the entire range, but I don't know what the optimum is. You might end up with a nice fireball if you are lucky.

http://www.fourthgearinc.com/700_R4_Street_Rod.htm#Transmission%20Specs This shows the same gear ratios as the previously mentioned website for 200-4r. 3.06:1, 1.63:1, 1:1, .70:1 What's up?

Darnit I've been putting off this swap for 8 months and every time I read this site I get new direction for drivetrain... Ok so now 383 stroker + 200-4r. I'll check this out. Very helpful though, I want it done right. Don't have enough $$ to do it twice.

I'm going to keep mine extreamly stock inside and out and just pop that baby in, noone will notice the urgraded diff, better springs, and welleded up subframe. Oh and of course regular old tires, maybe just slighty wider in the back, and slightly lowered. 8) Hey that's a nice ricer honda you got there, wanna race for pinkslips? Me? Oh I got a little extra power under the hood, but let's just keep that under our hats. Then... and then no doubt I'll have to chase him down for the pink slip. But a pack of "Guido's" brand hired thugs should help.

I blame the distributor, but only three cylinders sounds like a trick... Try swapping the carbs front to back and see if your problem moves.

I bet it's the little hamster that runs in the wheel in the #1 cylinder of the 280 engine. He has to run fastest because he's first and he'll complain if you go too fast. Get a V8 and throw that hamster cage away. (Just kidding, the 280 is a very versitile and reliable engine, capable of spanking a good v8 if set up right.) It sounds like a bearing, but try to go to a lower or higher viscosity oil and see if it sounds the same at the same RPM, truely it should sound different or occur at a different RPM with different oil. Also check for shavings in the oil.

Yes mixing the oil weights will change the properties, the oil will become fully hybridized between the different types. I don't understand what it would be "contaminated" with. Remember oil is made from distilled petrolium straight out of the ground and them additives such as deturgents and other modifiers are added. Mixing the different oils can be thought of as recombining it. Used oil can be distilled again and the products are pure straight weight oils which need to be recombined and additives added again to make the hybrid oils like 10w30 or 10w40. Adding a poor quality oil to the good oil will dilute the good qualities of the mixture... Ah just put 30W in and forget about it.

Sorry to hear you didn't win the presidentcy Mikelly, I wrote you in, but it didn't even sway California. Next time we nood more coverage!!!

I'll give my 2 cents. My father died when I was 3 and so I never got to know him. Somehow all my friends are from divorced familes (maybe that's by choice don't know). Anyway, sometimes I wonder if his death made him some sort of super hero in my mind. I've heard many things about dissapointments people have suffered through with abusive fathers, or dead beat dads, or divorces, and not that any of that would have happened, but if it did, would that be preferrable to having no father at all? I have come to the conclusion that I would rather have had no father than a bad one, and I think you all should really feel thankful for having a good father if even for a short time. I do.

Did you race your brother yet? I'd liek to know the results of the ricer car vs. the vintage ricer turned muscle.

REALLY NOW! You should be ashamed to have that many, you really only need 6, who drives on the weekends anyway what the heck is the butler for hey?

Contaminate it with what?

It's always electrical! I should have stuck to my guns.

Is it wrong to deam about the engine compartment of a car? I think no. But I limit myself to drooling from the mouth. *ahem*

Now that I think about it, my info is probably more for older cars. For newer engines, always follow manufacturer recommendations, but given no recommendation... See above.

You can't do without a digital camera, you'll thank me. Oh and a computer of course, duh. Take pictures of installed parts before you touch them, then removed, and then place them on the shelf and take a picture of the item on the shelf, and number the shelf. Then download the pictures to your computer and LABEL THEM by date, description and make a folder for each shelf number (several parts on the shelf should be the same kind of part. (lights, hardware, interior rear, doors, engine compartment...) Yeah, 10,000 pictures labeled SCR02133E mixed in with family christmas photos will not help you. I used to work in a garage we were damn organized and ran through cars like a dang buzzsaw. Like a revolving door. FAST FAST HUURRY HUURYY COSTOMER WAAAITITITGHJGGG!!@@#E@#E Oh sorry, flashback. I went to college to escape the horror.

I hate to blame the carb, but if it's just added and a holley, then check it out. Holley's are hard to set up out of the box.

OIL: The True Story, You can put anything from 10W to 50W or any combo therein in every hole in your car ecxept the automatic transmission or power steering pump. The viscosity oils are better for cold weather and better performance, higher viscosity oils are for hotter weather or better wear protection. If you put straight 10W in a car and drive it in the desert consistently, you might have premature wear. If you use 50W and drive it in the snow consistently, you'll probably have trouble starting it, and might bust your oil pump, or have insufficient lubrication. You can mix them all you want, you can mix synthetic (Syntec) and regular oil (not Mobile 1 check the bottle) Otherwise in about 100 miles the oil will be completely mixed anyway and they'll be pretty much combined to act almost exactly like a hybrid of the two. In fact you can put engine oil in your diffs and tranny too, it's not a big deal as you might think, but they could wear faster. I have used synthetic 10W40 in my manual transmissions (one for over 200k) and never had a single problem with my transmission, and I beat it up believe me. Just keep in mind the colder the weather the lighter the oil and via versa. If you want higher performance use the lightest weight oil you can given the temperature of the climate you live check any good reference book for the ranges. If you want the best protection, use the heaviest weight you can for the climate. Lighter weight wears faster, but reaches further. Heavier weight wears longer but might lose the ability to lubricate int he lowest temperatures or smallest passageways, that's why multi-visc is so nice. If you want to put it in and forget about it, use 10W40 all the time and you are pretty well covered for anything, but keep in mind 10 W oil will seep through gaskets easier and a leaky engine will leak faster with the lighter oil, if you leak, shift to 30W and you'll be ok for anything but snow conditions. Also... Synthetic oil should not be used in new engines because it does not allow the rings to seat properly, synthetic oil should not be used for the break in period or 10,000mi whichever is longer. Otherwise 1 quart of synthetic mixed in 4 quarts of regular will give as much protection as full synthetic, but half the cost. And Synthetic penetrates much further and is "slipperier" than regular oil so you can afford to use a heavier weight like 10W40 and still have good performance.

To see if your just overcarbed, put that vac gage on the tapped fitting on the intake manifold and watch it when you have the problem at full load not in neutral, on the road. IF it goes below 2psi or so and you're still not even close to pedle down, then you just need to watch your pedal. Carbs are pretty good at regulating themselves unless it's way overdone. You can get a formula for how much CFM you need for a given cu.in. Check the web. Everything else sounds good, if it's not fuel starvation, check your entire ingition system from coil to plug before you rip the engine apart. Under load only above 4000? My suburban did that and I assumed it was an oversized aftermarket 4 bbl, but it did it at any speed when I opened it up too far. Will it do this at lower RPMs? If not then it's probably not carb size, it should be worse at lower RPMs. If it happens every time you open secondaries no matter what, check the setup of your barb, get a book etc.

I thought the magazeens were to find manufacturers and new products?? Didn't even know they had useful articles, I might look for them in my stack.

At first glance it sounds like your carb is oversized. Get a vacuum guage on it and then if the vacuum approaches 0 and the gas pedal is not at the floor, you're oversized. IF you have 3+psi of vacuum and you're floored, this is not the issue. Even if you aren't sized correctly, it will still be fine, just don't press the pedal further than your vacuum can allow. A vacuum guage could help you to deturmine this. Otherwise it could be insufficient pump flow/pressure, clogged fuel filter, clogged air filter. Points could also cause this at high RPM. Go electronic for the ignition. It could also be a valvetrain issue.

Mikelly for president. I know who my write in candidate is. His original speech about 1500 posts ago really reminded me of the reasons behind America itself. It's the drive to be different and the consequenses of it. This site is like a melting pot but at the same time not excluding those who are not of our beliefs (as long as they behave). It wouldn't make a good country but as a message board it's just fine. IMHO. Mikelly, When you are president, before you invade China, let's make sure we have enough allies to win the war. Thanks.

I have a computer I bought in 1997 and upgraded in 1998 and 2001, it's a P3 550 now. The monitor has failed twice, I had to replace the hard drive 4 times, the memory twice, the power supply (damn thing only costs $35), the video card, the sound card, the motherboard and processor twice (in 1998 and 2001), went through three CD-roms, a set of speakers, ripped the modem out in 2000 when the new sound card conflicted and cancelled my virus shield which didn't work anyway. I have reloaded it every other year and it's due. and the monitor I have now is blinking off during the exact moment when I can't press pause and lose the ultimate battle etc. It also has a really bad buzzing sound that really drives me nuts, but when press on the front cover, it stops buzzing for 5 minutes. Oh and the new speakers suck, you can hear the CD writer when it's working through the speakers, and the sub woofer keeps turning off "automatically" which is really lame, why bother. Oh and my keyboard had to be replaced with the second motherboard because it didn't have the same connections, and the mouse is my third since new and I have to clean it every month. (next time I'll go optical) Computers suck. And all that and I can't even play the latest games. But I can buy a new one and start all over agan for less than 750.... I think I need to just stop using it. The work computer is new anyway, just can't install games.

just a guess, fuel pressure regulator?

It would fit, no problem, and you can even get most of the nedded parts at JTR, but I agree with SlateFox, no three speeds.