BrandonsZ

That is a modern marvel, a classic genious... totally without liscence and totally against copyright laws... forward to all your friends. We can get this, but not pirated versions of his entire show?

It's built for racing, you'll be just fine over 150MPH. Don't worry about it. Sorry I couldn't resist. There may be mothing wrong with it, although it goes against the teachings of the JTR manual (our bible). With a 5 row radiator, you are basically saying that lieing, cheating, and stealing are okay in moderation. In otherwords throw three out of 10 of those commandments away. You should get a long Waterpump from edlebrock and run a clutch fan with that bad boy. Truely though, most of us are here to learn, you may have on your hands the best dang way to cool the Datsun ever invented. It just has not been tested yet. These nay-sayers are objecting to "outside the box" thinking. I for one am very interested on how it performes. If too much is bad, way too much might be better, we do not have all the answers.

Look at your task manager it will say memory usage. CTRL-ALT-DEL Task manager click around the tabs.

what the heck is it made of??? I am looking for a welder, not sure what I should buy, but I know I want a TIG with an Argon tank and a backflush setup.

I can never find the time to play anymore... sucks. But I only played the sappy acoustic stuff anyway, no rocking out for me. Felt good to play, now I do chores all weekend, and work on projects. I guess I just don't care about the music anymore. Maybe I never did. Simpler time... less to do back then (in college).

Pop, Yeah, I think 100A service were in older homes (my first and second house had them 1954, 1962), he'll burn the crappy paper wrapping right off his Dryer plug with a 60A braker, probably the same thing if he's plugged into the oven plug. Maybe even cause a fire before that 60A braker ever pops.

The 60A breaker concerns me, unless you have 6 GA wire or better at least, you shouldn't have a 60A braker for your 230V plug. 1. The plug probably isn't rated that high. 2. The welder most probably does not need that much amperage at 230V (check the owner's manual) 3. The wires probably could not handle a 60A surge due to short. 4. Your extension cord to your welder probably is not rated to 60A at 230V unless you have one heck of a huge welder. When you are welding at 100A on the professional welders it's not drawing 100A at 230V, the actual voltage is either low voltage DC or low voltage AC. I would check the instruction manual for your welder carefully and put a braker that is close to their recommended one. If they do recommend 60A at 230V then make sure you have wireing and outlets etc. that support that load. I would guess your outlet is rated to 30A and your wire is 8Ga or 10Ga. This is probably good enough for your welder (given you don't have a frekkin huge welder), doubelcheck the manual for the acual braker that you'd need there. As for hard wiring... I'd brake into the wall, and wire up another plug with a seperate braker of either 15 or 20A depending on the recommendations of your compressor. My Sears professional stand up compressor only required 15-20A, I put 20. I have it plugged into where the dryer plug was and that was only a 10Ga wire. If your welder required say 30A at 240V, you better make sure you have 8GA wire and your ground better be up to code. The ground that came with my house was extreamly inadequate. Sorry if this sounds like a lecture, but it sounded weird how you posed this question. Otherwise you could make a junction in the plug you have currently for the welder and add another plug for the compressor. Just don't use them at the same time. If you try to actually run 60A through 10GA wire (if it shorted) I bet that wire would get hot enough to burn off that 1950's style paper casing and when the claims inspector find out you burned your house down because you were running things improperly, you won't get a dime, and your neighbors could probably sue you for endangering their lives and then environmentalists will sue you for causing global warming and the DMV will take your liscence because they can and they felt like it. Then you'll be deported, not for bieng an illegal alien, but because you were "acting like a terrorist". Disclaimer: Hope this helps, I am not a liscenced electrician, so nothing I say here should be taken as fact, so don't sue me.

I'd blame it on a bad connector, go over all your connectors and use tuneup greese if necessary.

2500RPM?? Sounds suspisiously like a bad Mass Airflow Sensor, but the computer should have kicked out a code if it was, it might be something like "too rich or too lean" or "MAF failed to clean". Not sure how your codes are, I don't have my book with me. MAF only performes it's tasks at low RPM ~2500 and below. then a set program lookup table takes car of the fuel mixture for higher RPMs. Try disconnecting the mass airflow sensor wire, clean it, put some tuneup grease in it and try it then. Happens when it's warm? Sounds like an intermittant connection in the electrical system, it could very well be this connector. Otherwise, when it's idling so poorly, just pull the MAF sensor wire off and if nothing happens, it's definately the sensor or the connector.

I replaced the engine relay and it lasted another 3 years without stalling. If your dash gages go dark or your ABS light comes on, it's a battery connection or bad ground. Hope it helps. Replace the engine relay and the fuel pump relay while you are at it, those two things are notorious.

...after I dated that stripper b****!

Two of those would really helped me 10 years ago...

I thought the problem with HIV was that it mutates too quickly to cure it. Why make something from this? There are hundreds of other stable viruses and bacteria that could be used for gene therapy. Sounds like they were searching for a cure for AIDS and had to cut their losses with this work. Although if they did make a benign form of HIV that does not mutate redily, then that could be the key to a stable supply of the missing protien that could not be attacked by body defenses. Only trouble is, if you live longer than 10 yerars your immunity goes to 0. Well at least you don't have cancer...

Freekin' Ebay! So is this that blue fiberglass one?

Won't let me login, they must have blanked my account due to low (no) activity... the bastards!

yessir she's a bute! ...and you put your groceries on the other side. Ahhh...

But if it was a guy, "gotta let 'im die, sorry"

Totally unnecessary.

It looks a little funky for me, too flashy, but I am making a sleeper. It would be fun though, 1800lbs with a z06 engine .

Noe of the links in all 9 pages of this string work. However I got the jist of the information here. **** Well guys sorry to keep you hanging. The 94 Honda accord wiper motor is very easy install. I am very happy with the results. Currently i do not have the intermitten part hooked up, but i do not care to hook it up either. I have wipers!!! Anyways the install is very clean ground out the wiper arm a little to match the angle of the wiper motor bolt on the accord. Bought a nut from sears couple washers... bam wipers. 3spd wipers. With a lifetime gaurentee on the motor. Does it get much better? the Honda motor even uses the same screws as the Z motor to mount it! just have to redrill on the plate. New fast wipers 120 bucks... i'm very happy. -Ed Ok boys. I bought mine new from the local automive store (O'Reilys) here was 120 i think with a lifetime warranty. (I can check the reciept if you want the exact) This is a farely straight forward mod as long as you don't screw up. With that said this is what i did. Start off by modifying the wiper arm as this takes the longest. Upon removing the arm and motor out of the car make a note as to which side of the arm faces toward the motor. You do not want to grind the wrong side.. then you are very screwed. Now on the side facing the motor you want to take a file and file away at the metal to achieve an angled circle that matches up with the angle on the motor this takes about an hr depending how familar you are with filling. After you get the arm to match the motor and it is on the correct side you need to modify mounting bracket that the motor mounts to. Position the honda motor over the bracket the same way the Z motor mounted notice that some metal on the bracket prohibits the motor from mounting flat on the bracket. I took a hacksaw to mine and cleaned it up with the grinder. (keep in mind this was done the day before i was to go to lubbock so just getting it together was the priority, not how clean hidden plates look.) After removing this metal the motor should be able to sit flat and square on the mounting bracket. Now that the motor can sit flat notice how the three holes to mount the honda motor are almost in the same location as the Z motor was, just in a tighter circle. I put some grease where the holes are on the motor and carefully placed it in the center of the circle. When you remove the motor, the grease marks where the new mounting holes need to be. I was in a hurry and misdrilled my second hole. So i used the first one.... sloted the second and third, this ended up working very well alowing me to center the motor to my liking. After you do that all you have to do is bolt up the arm to the motor put it back in the way it came out. Easy as pie. It's easier for me to just show you how to wire it up instead of telling you, I will try to draw something up and post it tomorrow or saturday if i can figure out the new upload setup. Ok well this is the general write up... hopefully take some pics tomorrow in the light. My wiring is only temporary right now, like i said i did this the day before i left for Lubbock. Also only high speed and low speed are noted here... when power is given to both then you get your third speed. Medium i guess you would call it. I'm guessing the other slots are for the intermitten relay on the Honda, I left my Honda book at home so i can't look it up right now. If it helps you any, I do know that the controller for the intermittent wipers is a LOT like that for the turn signals; it uses the little metal strip that gets hot & breaks the circuit, the makes it again when it cools. I've been told by an auto elec that the smaller and lighter 280ZX one bolts in. That's all I know *** At least you won't have to read through 9 pages of broken links.

wow, that car will kick ass above 3k, I can't hardly believe that much torque coming from less than half of a 350! Blew my mind. Good choice. It'll make me think twice when I'm at the line and I smell rice.

MY f150 did that and it turned out to be the igniter. When I got hot it shut the truck off.

I bought her a 2005 Lexus 330 "Crystal White". She bought me a $3,500 1972 240z, an Edlebrock V8 and a custom 200-4r transmission. (some assembly required, powerplant not included). I think I got the better bargain (hopefully not the more expensive one). But that's okay, because for her birthday I got her... a 2005 Lexus 330, and for our aniversary, I got her a 2005 Lexus 330, and for next Christmas I got her a 2005 Lexus 330... you get the picture. "keep that bow on there for 7 more years babe."

He did talk a lot about Santa. Seriously, I swore that was a V-4 wow that looks small! Looks about like a rotary. Those 3.8L v-6's'll put out whatever you want I'm sure. Cool!

What happened, was the car totaled?