BrandonsZ

I'm goig flowmaster next time. http://www.dynomax.com/ http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/cgi-bin/flowmaster

I put dynomax super turbo on my Cadillac 2X 3"in 3"out one-one (as I recall) and they were so loud that I had to add resonator dual tips to quiet them down. It seemed to want to resonate at 3000rpm? Then after the tips it was quieter at 3k, but louder at 1500rpm, which was a nice tone.

think about 200-4r (search on it) it's first gear is better for handeling the power and it's 4th gear is higher so your hyway rpm is a little better .67:1 Could the 200-4r handle 430hp? Not sure anyone?

but buy the engine last so it doesn't lose it's warrenty before you can test drive.

I can't get it either

It makes it hard to get up in the morning.

Did he mention that Teresa is a 40-year-old divorced neighbor of his parents? And that it would probably be his first and last sexual experiance? Someone who has the time to write that much instead of just leaving after the test is obsessing way too much on his experiance. But that guy is dang funny.

I bet you have a sensor down, the system sounds like it's in limp mode. check the computer codes.

4/5 on the shock scale. Wouldn't it be nice to have: 1. Too much money 2. Too much time 3. Total mental insanity I nearly fell off my chair.

Bad AFM would still run but poorly and would be able to rev up. It's probably the ignition module, they fail like that I just had that problem on my f150, the rad sprung a leak and sprayed the dist, I replaced the ignition control module and it fixed it. But the dang thing would start and run for a few seconds and then die. Put a timing light on it and check for flashing while it's dieing it could tell you if it is losing spark the afm wouldn't stop it from sparking.

You could have a bad aftermarket clutch, or your flywheel could be warped slightly (it gets warped when you wait too long to replace the clutch and end up slipping it which of course dumps tonnes of heat in the flywheel. Same reason why the rebuilt clutch could be warped slightly. I got a really bad clutch job on my first ricer, 'cause the car was so light it shook the whole car. I replaced the clutch but had to have the flywheel ground again, beacuse it was chattering so bad it scored the flywheel. I blame the clutch 1st then the flywheel second (especially if it has been ground before because they are usually case hardened like disc brakes, once you start grinding off the surface it will just get weaker and weaker and more suseptable to warpage. Don't know specifically about yours though. I would say IMHO that you could go 150 miles on it as long as it's not slipping (the rpm is steady going up a hil).

Obviously there is a building lobby against modding cars at all and not polluting the air and not going too fast and not thinking for yourself. It's a dang crisis here. Our days are numbered... oh and I'm sure we will be numbered someday too implanted with a tracking device at birth or when you apply for a SSN. I was told by an insider at the state level that they are just so low on funds here in cali that they are starting to get creative to gain more tax revenues. Cars being an obviously easy method consideing the ratio of cars to people is higher than most of the country.

Yes it might do that and your switch could be bad, but don't jump there yet, it's usually not the culprit. Check your fuses and solenoids first. Then your grounds for the battery, for the starter, etc. then... 1. Does the engine turn if the starter is directly hit with juice? If no, try moving the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. 2. Will it turn if you hook juice straight to the starter relay relay (the big one)? If no, hit it soundly with a mallet and try it again. If no then you may need a new one, have it checked out. 3. Remove the ignition switch and hot jump the start points. If it still doesn't start there may be a bad connection. At this point welcome to the world of electrical troubleshooting and good luck.

Lead in the petrol cushions the valves against the seats, you may eventually need a vavle job where they would install hardened valve seats, otherwise you shouldn't worry about it. It's nothing to worry about. But congratulate your legislaters now your children will be much less likely to be born misformed.

It also wouldn't hurt to rewire it you might have missed something. Back in the 80's I has an amp that required a seperate ground from the amp then the reciever otherwise it claimed I'd have problems. Look up how to utilize twisted pairs if you aren't already even in the power connection. You may be picking up a signal in the wires directly. For example you would twist the speaker wires, and you would twist the power and ground anywhere it's exposed (not shielded). I know those EE's always calcualted what the twists/inch should be, but with 4 ga. wire, not sure if that helps. I was told that twisting them helps regardless of number of twists per inch. But there are specific signals generated in a car platform. I don't know if a filter will help in this case because you are getting a pop instead of a steady humming or squeeling. It sounds like you might not want to couple the ground to other systems in the car. I was plagued by this before but I got it down to just poping when I turned on the amp. I bought 3 different filters and they never stopped the poping. I rewired it and ran the wires under some aluminum kick panels (they were already in my cadillac. It helped a lot.

Isn't there a bypass if the filter get's clogged? I think there is either some passive relief mechanism in the filter or somewhere else.

Not just the Hp and torque, but also you need to consider if you are going manual or auto, and if auto then what's the stall going to be? I read a post here where a guy put a very high stall torque converter in and had the original car otherwise but ran very low #'s without breaking anything. Does anyone remember that one? You would expect that your first gear ratio combined with the output of the engine at peak torque would be the best metrics for what to design to. It's probably easiest on the car with an auto and high stall RPM. anyone agree?

The only problem with wiping them all out is, you start pissing off the other allied countries, and you don't want to be too far into the slaughterfest and find out "Oh you mean China, North Korea, and yes even France (I mena Freedom) just loaded their big guns and have started the countdown?" I think the plan is in motion... Check these details: 1. Clinton to head UN becoming essentially the "world president". 2. With U.S. in control of the U.N. (hold on to your guns just yet.) we can force WTO under U.S. control (to prevent unlawful transactions). 3. Claim that Canada is harboring terrorists, control Canada (not that we don't already, we don't need any Arabs up their planning their next border crossing) harvest the natural resources (legally). 4. Offer assistance to former U.S.S.R. in exchange for border patrol of China and rebuild the eastern block. (in order to "keep the peace" in eastern europe and "assure safe free trade") 5. Have an "accident" just off the coast of Cuba with a few unmanned well placed russian subs loaded with 50 or so nukes ea. the entire island will be a memory. Blaim it on Ugoslavia. 6. Warn of future "accidents" if you can't get MEGA funding and support form all other countries to prevent future "accidents" and reform Ugoslavia as the new world technology center (run your stem cell research here) [little does the world know stem cells can be used for all sorts of weapons]. 7. Quietly replace leaders of OPEC and run it from the inside with heavy sanctions against China. Blame it on the Middle East. Let them duke it out. 8. Build a wall between the U.S. and Mexico. 9. Kick China out of WTO. Blame it on Mexico. Let them duke it out. 10. Gain support through lower priced [canadian source] oil in E.U. and India. 11. Invade CHINA through North Korea using the stem cell research to mind control north koreans. Let them duke it out. 12. Wipe the world clean with our special brand of anti-communist freedom. The birth of U.S.E. the United States of Earth. It could work, but then again maybe we should just sit back and wait till China becomes the world leader when their industrial revolution takes over. What do you think?

Don't know how they checked it, I would assume they put the guage on and turned the engine, I didn't watch them, and I don't have a guage. In the past we checked compression by screwing in a guage into the spark plug hole and turning the engine over a few times with the coil disconnected. The emmissions tech told me he calculated 11.9:1, I checked out that the conversion of B22 pistons in the B23 engine could be as high as 11.5:1. He also mentioned that the exhaust cam was off by a few degrees, that could effect it also. That number sounds high to have gone 200k without any problems anyway, what do you think he was talking about? I still have the car. I wonder what's really going on. I do have some readings from when I bought the car like 6 years/200k ago I had it checked back then, I'll see if I can find them as well.

If he beat me in a little racing fun on the freeway, I'd probably feel sorry for him instead of disapointed, because he must have poured a truckload of money in a DEL SOL C'MON! .

Sell me the car and I'll even throw in a very clean 1990 Volvo 240. Nice ride, very hot heater even on low, very quiet, you can't even tell that it stalled... eh I mean it shut off to save gas. Yeah. Why do you need it to idle at stoplights right? Am I right? It has performance like you wouldn't believe and man the air rushing through your hair with the back windows open is a real rush at 55mph on the open road. I've had it up to 85 and man was that FAST! Hey, it's imported, that means quality. Sturdy as a rock, solid as a rock, drives like a rock. New tires. Just whatever you do, don't mention anything about safety, wives will research and damn it they find out that the Mercedes 500S is the safest car on the road through some really controted logic and before you know it you'll be selling your car and half your tools to aford the down payment on the dang thing.

I saw some Edlebrock engines which were rated to 6500rpm, they have a 30k 3 yr warrenty too. They have some there that have numbers much better then the ls1. Here is a link I looked at. (hope this is useful) http://edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html I saw 3yr/30k yesterday, but they say 2 yr/20k today, don't know why.

wheelman: I feel embarrassed, but I was scratching my head for months trying to figure out why it wouldn't pass the NOX emmissions, then I was told by a tech at the dealer that my compression check came back way too high? Now I bought the car because it was noticibly faster than the others I has driven and I was planning on hopping it up a bit but it felt so nice I didn't want to spoil it. Then I figured that the exhaust was special or something because the engine looked totally stock. But the guy said it had a 11.9:1 ratio based on static compression numbers. I confirmed that when you add the B22 high compression pistons to the B23 engine you can get numbers this high. But after 200k miles it still had very high numbers. Bingo the car won't pass NOX because the compression is so high it raises the combustion temperatures. I'm trading it in on a lexus for my wife so it'll remain a mystery, and to be honest, I just liked the power of it it had power to spare and could peel in 2nd, although 2nd is probably closer to 1st for a nissan. Also it runs 4k in 5th at 80mph, so you can imagine it has a lot of low gears. Power drops off at 6500+ but I had it as high as 7k and it was asking for more. Sorry I just don't know any more about it.

My honda used to really tick off mustangs. It's getting old now but when it was in it's prime with the high compression pistons, and medium cam setup, but stock sounding exhaust and stock exerior, I'm sure they were scratching their heads. I can't wait to do that with a 240Z.

Sadly, if you really calculate it all out, it takes more raw energy to run a car on Hydrogen than gasoline. Another sad point is it takes more than a gallon of gasoline energy to distill a gallon of Alcohol. Not to mention a gallon of Alcohol is 70% the energy of a gallon of gas. The last sad point is after you think about all the transmission line loss, the power line loss and the efficency of a (purely) electric car like the EV1, you actually use more energy per mile. Although since it's subsidized you might not notice it on your electric bill (not sure). But if everyone did it, we'd have one heck of an energy crises, but gasoline might be a little cheaper at that point, well probably not since they'd have to build more power plants and use that gas to make the energy. The only way to solve this problem is not to buy gasoline, and the only way not to buy gasoline is to not drive and the only way to not drive is move closer to work, combine your errands, and ummm... CARPOOL . Well maybe not that. You thinkt he energy crisis is over? It's just started, wait till china starts needing gasoline for 10X more people than the U.S.??