NZeder

Re door's talk to the guys at OEM surplus - they have a 280zx 2 seater (my drivers) your pass door for a good price. As I am in NZ the shipping is a killer so I did not buy it. see http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/280zx4.htm - the price is a lot lower than what is stilled give them a call or email.

there have been a few 4 rotors build here in NZ. The first one was (I say was, it has been sold, and I believe it is heading to your part of the world - the US that is, the guy that build the car is now working on new 4 rotary but with less power for a road not road/strip) in a batman RX7. It was NA and made 490HP was road legal and it a 10sec 1/4 there is a video on the web of it going down the local strip. I did think about it for while my Zed = 260z = 2600cc. 4 rotor = 26B (ie 13B x 2) = around 2600cc in rota cc's with out the calculation of 1.6 or whatever the FIA do. Which I thought we very cool. The 4 rota does not sound too rota like in fact when up on song it sounds like a V10/V12. I did do the costing for this and the engine swap was going to cost $22K USD (this was complete, ECU, Loom, Surge tanks the works) the 4 rota shaft is/was about $5K USD (this is a kit that includes the shaft and custom bolts for holding/putting the thing together etc. So by the time you purchase new 13B parts it was around the $14K USD for the engine. So I went for a L28 with some work for now. This type of engine would be great in a mid engine kit car/replica = lighter than a V12 but as much power and almost the same sound......Maybe a 787B le mans replica that is road legal...now that would be cool. How about building one of these and sticking it in a 73 Corvette? This is what GM were going to do when they started working on the Rotary engine (like many car manufactures of the 70's they all purchased the rights to the Rotary design and had a go with only Mazda successful in the market place - and still building them today) and the GM project was a 4 rota too Well that is it form me.

You should start a thread on the conversion and performance/range.

looks good.

Who does the DLC coating process? Anyone have any DLC coatings done who did you use to do this and would you recommend them to others? I would like to know who does this processing I am happy to send stuff to the US to get it done.

Thanks Richard - did try DBA for the rotors I need and they have not even started to make them yet and they will not do undrilled orders on these currently - maybe in the future but not right now. I can do a special order but they want 50 as the quantity so have ordered the stock Commodore rotor from another vendor while I work out the complete setup. I am sure in the future DBA or PBR will sell undrilled but currently they don't (well still waiting for a reply from PBR)

I have sourced some of the vented rear rotors for this setup I am working on - I will collect these when I am in Melbourne Australia on business in a few weeks - Once I get these back to New Zealand I will install and take some pics and post more info. Cheers Mike

I would talk you the guys at Stewart Wilkins Motorsport http://www.swmotorsport.com they can supply adjustable cam sprockets these are not Nismo ones but better I feel. The Nismo units have extra mounting holes so you can adjust the cam timing in +-2 degree's at a time. The ones SWM sells have more adjustment and if I recall a cheaper too. Attached is a pic of the two type of adjustable cams side by side. The left is like the one SWM sells the right is like the Nismo unit.

Well I never did hear back form ES Customer Services about if these Uni/Jeep mounts did have the safety interlock in them. So I asked a fellow Hybridz member State Side to get one and cut it apart. Result = it does have the safety interlock built-in see the pics attached. So now on to the next phase I will purchase some of these and modify the stock engine brackets to accept these mounts. So big thank you (you know who you are) for getting this and cutting it up

Thanks guys - vented it is then - I will be off to get some rotors this coming week - once I have the installation down I will do a full right up on the conversion.

Or just do what the manufactures do - use a Drum in Hat setup. This is what I am working on right now. See my thread about Vented on the rear? Yes/No sorry for the hi-jack but it is related. This is why I am playing with the rear brakes right now as I wanted a park brake but still have the option for using a non parkbrake caliper or line lock (can be difficult to get road legal status here in NZ - not impossible but just a lot of red tape ie must have a cert and log book = must be a race car that does at least 2 events a year or it must be taken off the road or have the line lock/hydraulic handbrake removed etc)

No you can get both - have a look on the top of the page from that link I posted. These are weld on just like most of the coilover for S30. It is not like the S14/15 etc where you can buy a complete strut with a coilover on already sorry on the fronts you need to cut/weld or at least some will have to (take it to a good suspension shop etc)

I am sure this question has been asked many times before but here is the one answer. Yes - see http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=26_40

Hi all, Opinions please. I am upgrading the rear brakes on my Zed (to match the JSK hats, US Brake F88i and 12.19" x 1.25" rotors I will run on the front). I will be using a PBR Banksia park brake setup (that is a single shoe 190mm drum in hat setup). Now the donor car I got this rear brake setup from is a Ford Fairmont NL 1997 (Australian Ford) and stock they run a solid 299mm x 10.5mm rotor. Now I have found another rotor that I can use it is a 302mm x 22mm vented rotor that has the same offset and internal 190mm drum (again PBR setup so yes another Australian car). Now here is some more details on the rotors. The Zed has 4x114.3 (4x4.5" PCD/Stud pattern) and a locating spigot of 68mm. Now the Fairmont rotor is a 5x114.3 (5x4.5") with a 70.5mm center bore = machine work required for the center locating thing to be a good ID also a redrill to 4x114.3 is required (the stud holes in these rotors are large too including the 2x locating counter sung holes/screws). The vented rotor is a 5x120 stud pattern but has a 67.4mm center hole so this will only require a small turn on the lathe to take the center out to 68mm and then a redrill to 4x114.3 The vented rotor is from a new model car (release Q3 2006) so the aftermarket rotor manufactures wont have any in stock until June and will not make/sell me undrilled ones (I have tried 2 Australian manufactures so far will keep looking). I also currently don't know what size the stud holes are but this is not going to be a big concern as they will need re-drilling. However I assume one will have to share part of its space with the re-drilling. So another question would be "Is a good idea to re-drill a rotor that is GM stud pattern ie 5x120mm to the zed 4x114.3mm?" Also "Can the rotor have the holes welded up before the re-drilling? Now the plan of the car is street usage but it will see the track on driver training days, our car club track days = not a real race but this does not stop the us guys from driving our cars hard The vented rotor would mean that I would have to also get some new/different calipers - however as the hand brake/park brake/e-brake (whatever you call it in your part of the world) is an internal drum this is a non issue as any caliper could me made to fit with the right brackets. As stated I will be running 12.19x1.25" on the fronts so should I do the vented setup on the rear? Yes/No? Once I have the solution down I will let other know of the setup completely I just need know which path to take solid or vented?

Well my order arrived I have only seen photos from my 3rd party state side buddy. Thanks RoostMonkey for 1. Making these, 2. Working with me to ship these to my mate Pete for collection when I visit him in June great stuff and excellent service from another hybridz.org member

Just one thing - have your web designer check the site for Firefox usage - the text gets all covered up with the copyright info (ie with Firefox it does not show up on the bottom but 1/2 through the page...ahhh ) - I hate it when website are designed around M$ there are other products out there that don't use the M$ custom versions of HTML blah blah....

If you want a caliper with dust seal - have a look at the following Wilwood caliper see http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/fl119.pdf

Like many of the race calipers no dust seals sorry - I know that in Australia you have funny rules about a road car must have dust seals etc. But I find this complete BS visit any new motorcycle shop have ask the saleman if the new Honda xyz or Suzuki abc has dust seals and I bet the answer is no (failing that take a look your self) So why is it ok for a motorcycle not to have dust seals on the road but not a car. EDIT: I am getting my suspension painted in the next few days - once this is complete I could assemble the calipers on the struts (again I don't have rotors) and take some pics of the overhange etc - so it might be a few days to a week away. Re the dust seals - I don't see this as big deal as if the caliper is designed correctly with a good seal then these should work just as well - like a say I have never seen dust seal on a sports motorbike (mind you not looked at too many either) and all the bikes I have had all stop very well. PS: Sorry for the slight Hi-Jack but it is sort of related to ensure others know of other options for clearances

I purchased a set of the http://www.autobrakeworks.com/datsun.htm for the 4 lug 260z/280z hub setup from Juan just recently. And last night did a trail install (I have not got the rotors yet) of the calipers that I have to check measurements. I went for the US Brake F88i calipers and the overhange of these calipers to the hub is only 10mm. Not sure how this compares to the Wilwoods but I was told by Juan the Wilwoods overhange by 0.75" = 19.05mm so I was thinking I would need to run a 5-7mm spacer for the RS Watanabes rims (which are 16" sorry I can't help with the 15" question) but I will not have to with the US Brake Calipers as these are not as thick as the Wilwoods. What I can tell you is that using these US Brake F88i calipers (which are almost the same as the Wilwood Superlites in spec just not as thick of overhange and I will be running the 1.25" rotors) the total radius required is 170mm = 340mm diameter = 13.4"

Ok update time - the universal energy suspension mount, see the link that "HizAndHerz" posted, the unit on the bottom part number 2.1102 is used in the Jeep range of vehicles from the 70's through to the mid 80's. So I am still waiting to hear back from ES themselves but a search on the many Jeep sites show this mount does appear to have the ES safety interlock. Taking some measurements from the stock engine mounts shows these units are almost the same thickness (height of the stock unit ie 40mm and the ES unit is 1.56" = 39.6mm the coat of paint on the new stock mount I have is the only difference ). The stud (who knows I am from the metric part of the world so what is the metric equalivant of the Stud Size- 2 7/16"-14, .915" (2 8/32") but the stock units has a M10x27mm stud) but I assume this is close enough too. So the only issue is that the stock mount has the stud slightly of center to the two mounting holes/bolts (going my by eyecrometer) of about 7mm and the locating pin thing is not on the uni mount. Then this uni mount has the two holes between 4.406" and 4.781" apart were as the stock units is approx 80mm (3.156") So looks like once I hear back from ES I might be looking at getting some of these units if they do have their safety interlock system then I will just modify the bracket that comes of the engine block so the holes are wider apart and in the correct location etc. If this pans out I will make a jig so I can make more of these block to engine mount brackets. Will update once I call ES tomorrow to confirm that their 2.1102 universal mount does include the safety interlock. :)

Hmm that universal mount is close - the two holes are wider apart but the thickness is very very close - looking at the website I can't see that this universal mount is captive - I see the chev ones are the GM/Ford Trans mounts are but I don't want to assume the universal engine mount is - another email on its way to Energy Suspension to get the answer. Failing that - I am sure the universal GM ones could be fabricated to work.

Ok you can only ask - I have emailed Energy Suspension lets see what they come back with (if the reply at all). I have also emailed a place in the UK - they are happy to help if one of there existing mounts/molds is close = next to no R&D they need some measurements and photos/weights etc which I am onto - let see what the outcome is.

Ok I have searched and searched but I can't find an answer. I want to replace the stock L6 engine mounts which are non captive (ie if they tear apart the engine is then free to jump all over the place and damage lots of stuff). I know it is not all that likely and correct and regular inspections of the mounts is the answer. However I would like to know if anyone has a bolt in solution. I have heard of using a strap setup so should the mount give up the ghost this strap stop the engine from going to far. I have also seen custom setups using a suspension bushing (see attached pic). I would like to know if anyone has a simple solution ie use a xyz mount and it bolts up fine is captive/fail save. It would be nice to just a bolt in solution but if something has to be fab up then so be it - so if fab is the only way to go how much interest would there be in mounts? ie make a jig to push a few more out not just the one off set.

Maybe you should consider some sort of electronic control box + Vehicle Speed Sensor + a flow solenoid to restrict the assist at higher speeds (this is what most modern cars uses these days ie 300zx, MR2 etc). I have been thinking about PS for my zed, given the larger tyres and suspension setup I will be running. Good to see threads like this.