NZeder

Not in our part of the world But to answer the question about will an RB flywheel fit on the L6 crank the answer is yes.

Looking for Douglas - so what is the brand of wine and were can I get some support your zed build + I get to have a taste (assumes I can get it here in Auckland - or do I have to purchase a case directly from you 8) email me - address the same as before) Cheers Mike

Not really we don't have a site like tirerack.com I just visit the manufactures sites and checkout what they have listed = what is imported or can be imported locally (remember here in NZ we only have a pop of 4.5Mil) ie http://www.toyo.co.nz etc.

You guys in the US can't get 245/45/16? Well here in NZ they are easier to find than 245/50/16? I have some Toyo T1R in this size and locally here in NZ they indent (ie not stocked but they will import at a cost) a 245/35/16 in this same tyre.

Just spotted this thread - I have the stock 200zr pan and the engine is not in the car it is on the stand so I take those measurement for you if you like off the stock pan also. Let me know if you need them - I will get them for you anyway. Cheers Mike

Yes please

So given the photo's you posted have Copyright on them did you check with the owner if you could link/post them in this thread. It is very easy for us all to do this kind of stuff (link pics/save pics etc) but we should not forget that they belong to someone else and we should respect their copyright.

Ok just realised that I did not post the part number for the inner tie rod that I found - ie like the pic above. There are a number of suppliers of the inner tie rod shown above. Just google 26575 and Rare Parts - if you hunt around you will find a cheaper source

cool thanks for the pics - looks good and they look to fit/suit the 240z well. It has been a while since I have seen one of those bonnets - ie fitted with that aftermarket centre.

I guess one of the good things about the electric assist setup's is that they stop working at some speed/point. So you can use some PWM circuitry to change the speed sensor before inputting to the EPAS ECU (Electric Power Assist Steering) and thus giving you the feel/feedback you require.

I am sure there might be a market for these types of setups What I did was go to a captive energy suspension mount - search on here for captive engine mounts and you will find a thread started by me. In my case I have also gone to RB power but I was going to use this same setup on a L6 - ie modify the mount on the block like Monzter did but to take the slightly wider ears of the energy suspension mount (this is what I did to the RB mounting kit that was designed for the stock L6 engine mounts) So there you have 2 possible options - the ones that Monzter has done (replicate that) or move to the energy suspension mount like I did - again some mods required to the mount bracket.

That is were I got the info So how is the new bottom end coming along 1 Fast Z? EDIT: Re the Olds DCRE - min 0.250" even up to the max bore of 4.600"

Having pulled/owned 3 sets of L20a rods I can confirm the following. Pre 79 L20a have 133mm rods ie the same as the L24 and with 9mm rod bolts too. The post 79 L20a and the L20et have 135mm rods but with 19mm little ends and the smaller big ends aka L24e/Maxima journal sizing. I have not seen L20a rods that are 128mm ever and all the Japanese sites use L20a rods when building strokers as they are 133mm and the numbers work out. Plus as stated at 128mm the piston would be 4+ mm below the deck height. And one last thing the pin height of the pre 79 is 40.1mm and the post 79's are 38.1mm like most L series engines.

I know with the setup I got from Japan (yet to be installed, and I believe the same source that Brain gets the units as shown by Zbuff) was supplied with a speed sensor that connects to the standard mechanical output from the gearbox. This sensor then passes the mechanical drive to the speedo cable. So gearbox drive ---- new speed senor ---- speedo cable For me I will not be running the speedo cable as I have a new electronic speedo.

R160 too small big time - R200 is what you need after all this is what Nissan used behind the RB25DET anyway just the later shortnose type. Search on here and you will find a number of solutions + you would be best to convert to CVs and also install the later stub axles, if not you will be replacing these later when the RB25DET breaks them after some hard launches

Or run with the taller LD28 block but that requires a lot of work too to get a good bore again - so then you are running into the same issues with thin walls and blow by again unless some sleeves/cylinder liners are employed - either way cylinder liners required for a taller block setup. It is my understanding that large bores on the L6 blocks is best left to those of us that love NA and the turbo boys should limit the bore to 88mm and not go any larger due to the issues 1 Fast Z has found with his turbo 89mm DOHC 3.1 build.

Dave, I think over the years many have used the utility so a thanks to you and the team as ozdat for hosting it. I will have to track down the Japanese website I found that explains the pre 79/post 79 rod differences but given here in NZ we have a number of L20a and L20et (and I have owned or in the family we have owned) a few of each I can confirm there are 133mm rods and 135mm rods I have never seen 128mm rods on any L6 I did at one point also see a guy in Japan use the 135mm rods offset bush the little end from the 19mm to more common 21mm and in the that process change the centre to centre length to be 137mm (aka L14 C to C length, well the L14 are 136.7mm if I recall correctly). Not sure what they did on the bottom end - but maybe they also used a LD28 and again offset ground the crank to make a smaller journal for the rod and change the stroke to 85mm or the like. So I guess with enough effort the L20et rods might be of use but I have always passed on them when looking for L20a rods.

You want to fix the L20a settings they have been wrong for years Pre 79 L20a have 133mm rods and post 79 L20a and the L20et have 135mm on a smaller journal with the smaller 19mm little end. ie same as the US L24e Maxima engine on the little and big ends but 135mm is the length for these post 79 engines. Also the pre 79's also have 9mm rod bolts - well this is the case on the 4 sets I have seen/sold over the years (basically the pre 1979 uses L24 rods if you like ie same length, big and little ends etc) The block height of the L20a is the same as the other L6 ie L24/26/28. Also the Pre 79's have 40.1mm compression height and the post 79 have the more normal L6 38.1mm compression height. 78mm bore and 69.7mm stroke to make 1998cc. Hope this helps.

Well done to you and the team So what is the plan with the FED - take out all the class records etc and just show how strong the RB engines are? Would love to see a video of the FED on a better strip like the ones in OZ - is that in the future?

Looks great Rob, we were at Hampton Down's just over from the drag strip and we could hear the cars running - I keep looking around the track thinking man that sounds like it going for it only to realise all cars were still on the start line and the sound was from the strip

I had a fabrication/engineering shop do mine. I believe it is a mig weld on CDW 38.1mm x 2.6mm tube as this is the local requirement min. Re the Suzuki manifold - it is in fact a RB26 intake manifold

Ok here is my newly installed Half Cage/Roll Bar

Is your car a 240z/260z or 280z? ie 51mm struts of 55mm struts? I know my old 240z with the 51mm struts could take a rim with 4.7" of backspace with the correct rubber installed. However the same setup would not work on the front of a 260z (our local 260z is much like the 280z ie has the 55mm struts and front spring perch is lower than the 240z setup) Hope this info is of use - here is pic of my zed with the rims with the 4.7" backspace - they are 16x9 with a 225/45/16.

The Guys from Spool Imports in Australia that supply rods and cranks for different engines are working on a 95mm stroker crank for the RB30 blocks. So at 86.5mm more and 95mm stroke that is 3.4l of RB engine. Plans are to have this as a kit in 2010. See here for some info http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Crank-Strength-Upgrading-t212607.html&st=175