UofA_ZCar

Wow! Nice work.

Payment sent.

DM sent

If I recall correctly they are 93.0mm

I'm looking for a set of 1990-1994 Infinity Q45 pistons. Please let me know the price shipped to 89141

Worked like a charm! Thanks for all your work.

Since the update I am unable to upload pictures. If I click on the image icon the screen goes gray and locks up. Anyone else having this issue or am I just missing something? Tried it on my Mac and PC.... both do the same thing.

Since my last post I have installed the passenger side header, MSD spark plug wires + insulator socks, driveshaft, transmission mount, and the sending units for the Autometer gauges. I have also been stripping unneeded wires from the body harness and installing the chevythunder.com harness. I will do a post dedicated to the wiring once I clean up the install. MSD 8.5mm super conductor wires with adjustable angle boot on the spark plug side + insulator sock (ordered on amazon): Fuel pressure sending unit with Metco adaptor for fuel rail (http://www.metcomotorsports.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MFF0001): Water temperature sending unit + adaptor: Oil pressure sending unit + adaptor:

I modified the stock tank and in retrospect I would have just used a universal tank or fuel cell.......room for duel exhaust and less expensive.

Looking good. Which company did you order the harness from?

ok. So then I can disregard the charge wire (white/red strip) that attached to the L-series alternator.... so long as I run the LS1 alternator charge wire to the positive post on the starter, then onto the positive batter post. Per the second post of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/77180-ls1-alternator/page__p__734448__hl__%2Balternator+%2Bwires+%2B__fromsearch__1#entry734448 Thanks for all the help.

I figured out the answer to this question. You use the Black + white strip wire for the PCM connection because it has power with the Z ignition in the "on" and "start" position. I still need help with what to do with the white wire (from the z body harness) that is by the starter solenoid wire.

yes z ignition switch wiring and body wiring harness. The wiring is for a 1973 240z.

I've read a lot and PM'd a few people with questions regarding wiring my LS1. I've appreciated the help as wiring is the part of the build I have been least excited about. Off the ignition switch I have two wires that get power in the "start" position. One is green with white strip and one is black with a white strip. Why are there two getting power and does it matter which I use to give that signal to the PCM? I believe the PCM needs a ignition on signal and a start signal correct? I'm also confused about the white wire that is by the black/yellow wire that give the start signal to the starter solenoid. What do I attach it to? Every thing I have read says to attached the white/Red wire (that used to attach to the L28 alternator) to 12V power from the starter post, but when it do the white wire has constant power also. Was the white wire the 12V positive power to the starter on the L28 and can just be capped off now? White Wire: White/Red wire: If I have missed this in a previous thread please feel free to link the thread. Thanks

Good luck! There are a lot of good build threads on here to help guide you.

http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

That is my understanding from all my research.

Nice! I love the "I'd rather be camping" license plate cover on your sports car.

If that one doesn't work out I have one from a 78 you can have for $30 shipped. It will take me two weeks to ship it out as my stock pile of z parts is in the neighboring state.

I have a 1981 turbo 280zx fromt end if you want to stop by kingman, AZ to pick it up.

You really just need to spend a few days reading through the threads in the section of the forum..... you will find all the info you need. Then if you have any specific questions people will be happy to help. This forum is a more empower yourself type rather than a spoon feed type. Here are two good threads to get you started: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57523-my-complete-ls1-install-documemtation-with-pics/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95937-78-datsun-280z-53-build/ good luck! IMHO although the miata's are cool little cars I would rather have a Z in the garage any day of the week.

I have a set of front + rear off a 78 280z. I'm not sure what they usually go for but I'll let them go for what ever the going rate is plus shipping. Shoot me a PM if interested.

I haven't made my laser pointers yet for lining up the trans output shaft with the R200 input flange, so I decided to install my Savage42 throttle cable bracket and Lokar throttle cable. Pretty straight forward, the only real "modification" necessary was drilling a hole in the throttle linkage on the firewall to accept the throttle cable. Then I just had to trim the throttle cable to fit. Here is the link to the bracket from Savage42: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83647-lsxsrrb-throttle-cable-setup-lockar-custom-bracket/page__p__792755__hl__%2Bthrottle+%2Bbracket__fromsearch__1#entry792755

I went with this one: http://www.chevythunder.com/ I have not installed it yet but it looks to be a good product. The instructions that come with it are very nicely done.

I decided that John from John's Cars is not going to get back to me regarding the POOR fitment of the T56 transmission mount. So after slotting where the rubber mount attaches to the trans, slotting the steel mount where it attaches to the rubber mount, and "messaging my transmission tunnel much more than I would like; the transmission mount is installed. I also installed the John's Cars driveshaft today. Seems to be a very high quality piece. My original driveshaft bolts are a bit short for my taste. For those for you who have used this driveshaft, did you reuse the original bolts or buy new ones? If you bought new ones where did you get them? IMHO John's cars engine mounts and driveshaft are worth using. THe transmission mount is poorly made and you are better off fabricating your own. I definitely do not like that the mount doesn't even tie into the unibody frame rails. I plan to modify it so that it ties into my bad dog frame rails.