dr_hunt

:lmao: That would be a party!

Yeah maybe, I you obviously have me figured out. Going to take it to aspencade, the big rally in ruidoso in a couple of weeks. Supposedly there are 17,000 bikes that show up annually. I called S&S and gave them the engine serial number and it is a 2006 113" motor and has .640 lift cams in it which are more race than anything else. It lopes alot when your cruising at any speed and at idle. Sounds like a top fueler and jerks the bike alot. If you get on it at all it smooths out good though, its just at part throttle it's really really lumpy and turns heads cause it sounds mean. It is a really fast machine, alot faster than I want to go on 2 wheels. Kind of ironic, I can't get fast enough in a car.

I was trying to sell my '94 dodge single cab 2wd diesel truck. Guy comes by and wants to trade the bike. So I said WTH and now I have a bike. It rides nice, hauls the mail pretty good, cruises nice but somebody else probably needs it more than I do. Got the title changed over, insurance, etc. today, so I'll go for a ride before the afternoon rains come.

Yup, I have definately lost it. It is for sale if anyone is interested. 20K 1999 Pancho frame, hardtail, 2007 S&S 124 inch motor, 5 speed, belt drive, new custom paint, chrome everything and polished aluminum whatever is left. New rubber and yes it hauls the mail! Somebody just shoot me, please.

You mean the head bolts won't budge I assume. Yes an impact gun is the correct tool to remove those along with a 6 point impact socket.

Already a thread on this.

I don't agree with the NOS even though it may work in this case it is just a crutch for improper converter design. Proper converter design is paramount to consistent performace. Most performance converter companies will re-stall for free anyway. The price of a removal and installation to get it right is less than the purchase, installation and maintenace of a NOS system IMO.

To answer your question, the layman can lightly put oil on the entire valve stem, insert it into the head with the top of the stem even with the top of the guide. Then place your finger on one hand over the hole, use the other hand to pull the valve back out of the head. If it draws a vacuum on your finger and makes a pop sound when the valve comes out, then chances are guide is ok, if not then the guide and or the valve needs to be replaced. IMO if you mic the valve and it has .0015 or more wear then it needs to be replaced. Mind you the FSM is about stock motors and running a motor stock. Performance applications are something quite different IMO.

I think you need to change the title to something a little more appropriate. Otherwise it'll go to the shed.

I agree, it is toast. Not just crank damage, but radiator damage as well. Do not use that under any circumstances.

A true gearhead, always modifying something that most leave alone. I modded my '84 pete, turned it up to 605HP! Now I pass everything except the fuel depot.

You will be singing "I didn't know a worn out ford part could go so slow!" "I got to get to the church on cumberland road."

Sorry Warren, my thoughts are with you and their family.

Nascar mandates 12:1 compression. I would imagine that custom pistons would be required as they use 6.2 inch or longer rods, 3.25 stroke cranks and 4.185 bores. The bore spacing is different so the crank may not be the same or the rods have different offset. Would be neat to see one. Why would you want a flat plane crank when it already turns 9800rpm? Run it like it is.

I ordered the moser axles and wilwood brakes today. I already had a narrowed 9 inch rear end but it had re-splined truck axles and they were 28 spline. Also they had 5 on 5 bolt pattern and you can't get wheels for that that are not truck wheels. So I ordered 31 spline axels and 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern so I can use ford and chrysler wheels which are more plentifull. I bought a detroit locker that is 31 splined also and I will be running 3.50 gears which I have already also. So, when that is all assembled I can start the cage and backhalving the car. Oh, too much fun. They should be in next week! I got the 140-2115 wilwood brakes which are a pro-street brake with 4 piston calipers. I have the same on my Monte which work great.

Wow, really cool.

Oh yeah, you could do alot with that. You could do a complete build with heads, pistons, cam, rods and crank for that.

That looks like a standard performer to me. What is your budget? All this talk is meaningless if you can't afford the pieces.

Well, got most of my engine back, block needs cam bearings, they ordered the wrong ones. The gaskets aren't in and neither are the hyd roller lifters. Pistons are flat top 2 valve reliefs. Heads were freshened up and have matching valve springs for the custom cam. The cam specs are 226/223 int/exh duration at .050, 114 LSA and .565 lift based on 1.5 rockers. I'm running 1.6's so the lift should be around .602. Pretty agressive lobes. Should idle nice!

Street carbs are more responsive to changes if you use the annular discharge boosters as opposed to downleg or straight. What ones do you have? What carb do you have? The booster determines signal to the carb and dictates fuel curve. You may consider the C&S aerosol billet carb if your looking for a great fuel curve for max power.

Since you are leaving it all stock inside IMO would stick with the hydraulic cam since you don't want to spin it as much as a solid will go. Your building another engine later so maybe you want to go cheap and easy with parts that you can use later to get where you want to go with your usage now. Go with the 64 cc Dart iron eagles with hydraulic springs. Use the 201271 grind. I find that that works really well with a stock converter, gives you some lope, and great midrange torque. I have run that cam and it will top out at about 6000 rpm. The tight lobe center comes on quicker and lower than the wide lobe center. In the z it is a pleasure to drive. Dart makes those heads in a 49 cc option which will allow you to get high compression with flat tops. Circle track guys use them all the time and I just built an engine for a guy using those for a rule restricted motor. You can make around 500hp with those heads btw. so if budget is a concern, then I would recommend them since they will get you to your goals.

Welcome to the support group, now please stand up and tell us that your addicted to speed! Thanks, now you should feel better. The dart iron eagle 200's would be a good choice especially if you plan on more upgrades later. IME they do not adversely affect the bottom end torque. If you opt for the 64cc chambers you can get some compression which will help cam selection. I am assuming your running a stock converter so you will want to stay around 225 degrees duration at .050 and get as much lift as you can. The intake would be another area of cheap upgrade, try the edelbrock dual plane manifolds or the weiand. Some headers would be good too. It never ends BTW.

Going to pick up my turbo engine on Friday. It took awhile to get the JE pistons and the custom ground hydraulic roller cam. So, I can start assembly of my turbo motor soon. On another note got a new dizzy for the V6 car so I'll have to take pictures of that soon as well.

Dayum, discovered again! I'm the third slacker inbetween the two college hotties. Pic's later, don't have that capability here.

Just wanted all you members to know that I'm slacking big time on the Beach in Mexico. Drool all you want Cozy, they are bigger and better in Mexico! Later dudes!