dr_hunt

Incorrect valve lash will do the same thing. Aluminum heads you set at .006 tighter than spec when cold. Although you don't have aluminum heads the incorrect lash (too loose) will limit it to about 6500.

Well, once I get the trans built, then I will do the engine. Once I get that done, then I would like to start it on the stand. I will send you a PM as I need some sources for some efi parts and you probably know where I can get them. The shop is insulated and has a wood stove. I fired it up and it is toasty in there. 2 or three small logs and your good for the whole day. Back to the build. To install the reverse piston retainer and springs you need a tool. I made mine, but you can buy one too. Notice the small hammer. If it doesn't fit, get a bigger one. Got the reverse piston, install the seals on the piston and install the clutches and steels. The steels only go in one way with the notched tab at 7 o'clock position as your looking at the trans in the picture. When you go more than 5 clutches, you will need to rob an old clutch and steel or buy more cause only 5 come in the master rebuild it. You leave out the wavy steel and add a steel from the old trans as long as it is in good shape. You can see in the picture the pressure plate and clutches installed. When you install the pressure plate and ring then you measure clearance. Here is how you do it. You want .090 to .120 clearance so that you get a good release. IMO if you are more towards .120 the car can rock when applying the transbrake. You can air check the piston to see if it works which is a good idea, otherwise if you tore a seal then you have to disassemble it again later and hopefully you find out before you put it in the car. I had .095 clearance on this trans so we proceed. The next thing you install is the servo. Here I opted for the billet dual ring servo. They come in 2 flavors, o-ring and steel ring. If your bore is worn, use the o-ring type, seals better. Here is a picture. Mine is not worn, you see very few that are, so I used the steel ring version. Make sure you lub the bore and the rings, compress the rings with your fingernails and install. Air check this as well to make sure you didn't nick a ring or tear an oring in the supply hole area when installing. Then you assemble the high clutch drum. Install the seals facing down and lube up the drum and install the piston. Stack the clutches starting with a steel and alternate with a clutch. A clutch will face the pressure plate in the end. Don't forget the pressure plate thrust washer! Alternate the clocking of the steels so that the tabs are not all in the same groove so that the stress from high hp is evenly distributed on the high drum shell. You will need one of these to compress the high clutch retainer and springs. Pretty easy when you leave out 8 springs. If you don't have one, don't try it. You will screw things up. Either borrow one or buy one they are not that much.

I called ruger and using the serial number on the gun, that was a factory installed brass piece, which according to them makes it a rare item. It was shipped in Nov, 1972. A local gun guy here wants it real bad, but I think I will keep it for a collector piece.

Ok, calm down boys, be civil. Whether it is right or wrong, what the inspector says goes. But in this case he doesn't want an inspector, he wants it to work so he can get by with one receptacle 30 amp off a 220Vbreaker.

Most likely it didn't happen. The mechanic is trying to take advantage of this person IMO.

A guy called me the other day and wanted me to haul a semi van trailer to albuquerque for him. I told him $400, he says ok. The trailer only has 4 tires and wheels on it and I ask him what he is going to do with it. He says load it with his stuff for storage and haul it to farmington which is some 250 miles or so. I said your going to need all the tires and wheels on that to be safe. He says how much? I happen to have 4 old tires and wheels that I was going to take to the auction, so I said $400, so $800 total. He says would you trade for some guns. Went to look at what he had. Nice stuff mostly weatherby's and browning shotguns. He pulled out this pistol and I had never seen one like it or in this shape, so I snatched it up. Anyone have any idea what this is worth? I checked rugers website and by the serial number it was made in 1972, According to Ruger they were made in 1971, 1972 and 1973 only. It is a 3 screw old model flat top blackhawk in .45 long colt with a 4 inch barrel. The kickers are the 4 inch barrel and the rosewood grip with brass trigger guard and grip frame. All I can find in the books is that the brass part is a very rare factory installed option, nothing on the gun itself.

IIRC it had ujoints at the SEZ that I went to cause I saw them change them out. I think they would get only a few runs on the ujoints before replacing them. Later I think they converted it to the CV's.

Several people have completed that swap. If you search alittle you will find all kinds of information.

Nice!!!!

Customvue Not a big deal, you really see nothing, just smell burning flesh. The dope you up, no big deal. Actually heals in weeks not years. Really, you ought to go check it out.

I had that about 2 years ago. I went from 20/25 to 20/10 in both eyes. I could pass a driving test but that doesn't put it into perspective. I had 20/15 in both eyes 20 minutes after the procedure which takes about 3 minutes per eye, about 15 total by the time you count set up and everything. Well worth it for me, 99 percent of my time is spent outdoors and it is so much nicer to see. 20/10 is almost impossible to get, about 1% of the population has the roundness of the eye capable of seeing 20/10 and 1% of that 1% can actually see 20/10. Put it into perspective from a seeing standpoint. 20/25 means that at 20 feet I can see what a normal person can see at 25 feet. So at 4000 feet I see what a normal person sees at 5000 feet! Quite a difference. Now look at the change. 20/25 to 20/10. Now I can see things at 10000 feet that I used to could only see at 4000 feet. Now that is one dramatic difference. Now I see animals at distances my friends can't even see them and with binoculars it is even better!!! Well worth the money if you old enough as your eyes change with age and it isn't for the better. I had no issues, night halo or anything and I opted for both eyes being set for distance, don't let them give you the monovision which is one eye for reading and one eye for seeing far. Get reading glasses if you need too. I don't I can read a paper clear across the table, who needs stinking glasses!!

Code says you have to calculate ground fault currents and load currents to correctly size the wire. It also says that each piece of equipment needs to be properly protected. The air compressor is probably not going to use as much current as the welder so you really probably need two outlets not one, but you could get away with one. The outlet needs to be a 30 amp or larger IMO. I have a 50 amp outlet receptacle. Ohm the ground buss to make sure it's grounded and every other bit of advice is correct with the exception of the chicago fire.

Cool!

Must be comedy night!

Kids, gotta love 'em! Toughest decision? Hmmm. Well son, always finish what you start!

Well I could not find any information on the subject and I got to see an engine back in the 90's but I can't remember ever seeing any provision for one. The life expectancy of that engine was 1,500 miles of 10,500 rpm operation at 600 to 780HP depending on displacement and are all NA engines. Some were 4L and some were 3.5L. The 3.5L version had a slightly higher rpm limit of 10,750 I think. I guess my point is that the 2nd order harmonics are not really an issue even at 10,500 rpm, so at 8,500 rpm it is even more of a non issue for technical purposes. I read where the engine actually went from 2D design to a running prototype in just a couple of months with carillo rods and JE pistons being used. I am not sure about the crankshaft though but they outsourced almost everything.

One of the more popular racing automatics is the powerglide. It is the easiest transmission to build and the one that is mostly not built right IMO. There are several key things to get right to make it work. Here is my outline for this build. When you start out take the case and have it cleaned. This one is not all that clean yet, but it has been washed several times in a vat. Drill out the cooler line bosses to 1/4" Pipe. They come 1/8" pipe from the factory and are restrictive to oil flow. Keep in mind you want transmission oil temps to be 175 degrees at a maximum IMO. That requires a stand alone cooler of sufficient size and I recommend running a temp gauge to be sure. Transbrake usage builds a lot of heat because you are shearing the fluid in the converter on the line at stall speed. If your going to drag race then you will probably use a transbrake. This particular trans is going to get a BTE Pro tree transbrake which is a double dump type brake and is very quick reacting. To install this brake you need to drill three holes, 2 of them here all the way through the case. These are 5/16" holes. They are indicated by the blue wire sticking in each hole. Then drill out this hole also to 5/16 and intersect one of the others you previously drilled, debur as you can. I have already installed a new bushing in the back of the case and cleaned all cuttings from the case and holes. Once these modifications are done the only thing left to do is to cut the case if your going to use a safety shield. I am not going to use one so we will have to do that another time. This is going to be built for well in excess of 900HP so one thing you will need for that is 6 clutches in the reverse pack and 8 to 10 clutches in the high drum. I opted for 10 clutches in the high drum shown here. This has a billet hub and drum especially made for a 10 clutch application. If you use a stock hub and drum not made for 10 clutchs the bottom clutch will fall off and create a binding problem preventing the high piston from engaging the clutches. When installing the retainer and springs in the high drum alternate the springs 2, 0, 2, 0 and you will end up not using 8 springs. This will allow for a faster high clutch application. A quicker shift if you will. There are two factory supplied gear ratios for the powerglide, 1.76 and 1.82. The 1.76 gear set was used in the V8 applications, 1.82 was used in the 4cyl and 6cyl applications and is the least desirable of the two. Always use the 1.76 gearset which is identified by the machined unit below. The 1.82 set looks like this. Obviously lighter duty stamped steel housing, pretty thin too. If you are going to build 500hp or less then you can use the 1.82 gearset. But in my case this engine will make more than that N/A and it is turbo anyway so we opted for the better 1.76 gearset. I am waiting for a machined reverse piston, so when that comes in we will detail the rest of the assembly for you DIY'ers.

Good idea!

You are hijacking the thread. His question was is there another shop as he wants to find one.

Did the aurora indy engine ever incorporate a balance shaft? The early engines were 90 degree cranks and the later versions were 180 degree cranks in order to change the sound of the engine AFAIK. Also the displacement changed from 4L to 3.5L and I was unaware of any balance shafts used.

Ron Tyler does!

Yes there was some made for the sbc. Check out Eagle dual overhead cam cylinder heads. They were made and sold back in the early '70's.

As for feedback, let me kind of sum it up. IMO If you or someone else is jacking other members around here, you will be gone. Kind of like a self-eject button where each person is responsible for his or her conduct here. If you abuse that then you can go visit some other site. IMO we don't need a feedback rating cause if it's bad then your outta here.

For him maybe but for her it probably seems like an eternity!

+1, Bet it seems like yesterday.