dr_hunt

Cool! Bad news travels fast and furiously, good news rarely gets told. Bringing someone down a notch or two never raises you up a notch or two. I think by and large most of the transactions are on the up and up. I have never had a problem and have bought from several members, some newer some long time members.

Pretty straight forward actually, if you have the bobweight information then take the crank with that bobweight sheet and get it balanced. If no sheet then take one set of bearings (rod), one rod, one piston, one set of rings and take that down and get it balanced. Some people take the harmonic and flywheel/flexplate also. Depends on how anal retentive you want to be. What that does is tie the flywheel/flexplate to that motor only, not a good idea especially if you have to change flywheels/flexplates later. The balancer only if your using a stock type can you do that.

The wilwood brakes didn't seem to fit the housing ends right so I had to send the axles and brakes back to get a different setup. Spacers between the bearings and the axle flange to space the axles out 1/4" and different brake mounting brackets. LOL Another $100 in shipping. Going to start assembling the engine and trans this week, that will take awile and I'll document it with photos. Left to buy are wheels, 4 link bars, converter and misc little stuff like injectors and fuel rail, fuel pump, BOV, wastegate. I have most everything else.

I will be following this thread and starting on my project shortly. So far this is good thread info.

yeah, that is funny. As for the question as posed it seems that it is a highly personal question to be asking here so I doubt if you will get alot of responses. Bottom line is that $$$ spent on beer doesn't end up in the car and IMO the two don't mix well. I know that my best work is not achieved WUI. If you figure a 6 pack a day which is what now $5, that equates to $150 a month or so and after a year is a substantial part of a z car in parts depending on what you buy. And in several years amounts to being able to buy one complete and running.

No need to pull the heads and cc the chambers as the casting numbers are inside the valve cover. At worst case that is all you need to do and be spot on as to what heads are on that engine.

The first year model of a car is typically not the one to buy for the reason of potential problems. I don't think 1, 2, or 3 trans failures is a huge deal IMO. Hard launches on a manual trans is going to kill each and every one of them sooner or later I don't care what trans you have unless its a lenco. Most states have the lemon law, we do here, and that kind of stuff doesn't fly here and I doubt it will anywhere where there is the same or similar law. Here the Ford dealer is having pure hell with their new ford powerstroke diesel engines. He was telling me that they had sold 20 or so 2008's and had 6 back with blown engines all with less than 5000 miles on them. Now I think that is a problem!

Aw phil, you don't want that POS, ship it to me and I'll fix it, I have a tig in the shop. Chock the $300 bones down to an education and go have a beer. :lmao: Use the thing one way or the other would you and quit whining.

I think what he is getting at is a broader tq range with the sc than with the turbo, which in most cases is true depending upon turbo selection. It is hard to have your cake and eat it too. IMO either would be fine and both have pro's and cons, the sc is probably easier to install although not cheap. It is going to cost money to go fast.

IMO they both make good power, the SC probably has an edge for street use due to the lack of turbo lag.

The reason that the counterbalance shafts don't eliminate the second order is because they are not directly connected to the crank, but attached by means of driven gears or chains and the net resultant force is in the block not the crank. It is about felt vibration rather than cancelling out the real vibration. The point I was trying to make is that in the 4g63 that I built, was stroked also and with fully prepared head, was turning 8000rpm regularly without any problems like bearing failure, crank failure, rod, etc, etc. The aurora indy v8 would do it all day with reliability and I am assuming that in a street vehicle would last considerably longer. I know that nothing lasts forever and this is pretty exotic from any mainstream engine, so there is a price for what you get. IMO this engine is not going to stay at high enough rpm to have 2nd order harmonics come into play when compared to a race engine that lives at that rpm and WOT for hours on end. Besides, we can bench race all we want but the proof is in the pudding and the real deal will be when it actually runs and we have something as a test bed. I think this engine is a great idea BTW.

From an engineering standpoint I wonder if the crank like the Aurora configuration actually exhibits 2nd order harmonics in sufficient magnitute to cause any real problems. Just wondering if we are not splitting hairs here cause in the 4g63 that I built here awhile back I deleted the balance shaft, rebalanced the crank and could tell no difference as it was before. Just a thought here guys.

IMO that is why there is dirt track racing.

Well, it's never been huge here, but now it's non-existent.

Well, typically with a TR you don't get good carb signal in the lower rpm range. Today with the booster design, that is not as much of a problem as it was back in the days. LOL. Just watch the plugs and jet accordingly.

My guess is that it's needing more fuel, you would be suprised how well tunnel rams fill the cylinders. Back years ago in the 70's I actually removed the jets from my two 650 holley DP's on my tunnel ram and it ran faster!! Motor was a 355 12.5:1 comp, crower solid cam, extensively ported 292 angle plug heads in a ford pinto.

I am a little suprised that you didn't pick up more mph and a little ET. Sounds to me like you need some tuning.

Good luck I hope that works out for you. I don't know how it is now but when I was there back in the 90's it was impossible to get your PE there because there were no PE' working at that time to be working under. To further complicate things the PE exam is so very different in technical issues from what your doing that I as a PE would not sign for you since I know what you will be doing and it is not related to normal disciplines.

The problem with the 10 bolt is the flex in the housing. The pinion gear tends to separate from the ring gear under high loads. The 9 inch is not that much bigger diameter, less than 1/2 inch, but is much stronger due to the extra bearing on the end of the pinion gear which keeps the two gears closer together. C clips are a big no no for most forms of racing, the 10 bolt in a z would probably fair better than it does in most of the heavy cars it came in IMO. It is not just a function of HP, but weight of the car your trying to move.

Pretty cool stuff!

Damn you guys must be following me on vacation too!!

The 10 bold will hold up for awhile, but if your going to run some sticky tires and do hard launches it won't be around for long. There are other options, take a peek in the drivetrain sticky section on rear diffs. Several members have gone that route, self included. The 9 is so simple and works so well it is the obvious choice that is practical.

I'd bid 100,000 but I know some of you have deeper pockets than I do.

Beer Cans!!!!???? :lmao:

Well, you can't beat cubic inches for a street motor that is going to last. Count on 1 to 1.25 hp per cubic inch IME. IMO you want to build a 406 or 421 with 9:1 compression and decent iron heads like the dart iron eagle heads and a decent hydraulic or hyd roller cam. Preferrably the hyd roller with about 230 or 240 on the seat at .050 and .550 lift or so. That will net you 500+ HP on pump gas. My 406 with 9:1 hypers, 350 rods, stock crank, dart 200 heads, performer dual plane intake, q-jet carb and an isky flat tapped hyd cam 236 duration at .050 and .510 lift made 442FWHP based on 1/4 mile trap, ET and weight at our cheezy 6000ft elevation. That is around 500hp at sea level.